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About Ramblings of a Hopeless Khowaga

Welcome to my Web site. My name is Chris, and I’ll be your host. I\'m an opinionated, snarky, gay academic with a predilection for the history, the Arab world, languages, photography, food, and music. I live in Austin, Texas. You can read more about me, learn 100 random things about me, and if you’re wondering what the heck a khowaga is, click here. Feel free to browse, read, and leave comments!

Archive: ‘Slightly Academic’



Take Time to Smell the Java

Thursday, May 1st, 2008

Yet another friend from the bloggerverse has done the unthinkable: Brian is giving up coffee.  (Well, specifically, he’s giving up Starbucks, but that’s his main/only source of coffee at the moment so it pretty much works out the same.)

I’ve done this before — at the urging of my boss, who is something of an amateur medical … adviser guy … who had gone on at length (repeatedly) about how drinking caffeine dehydrates you, and it’s much healthier for you to not drink caffeine, yadda yadda yadda.

In point of fact, it’s not the caffeine that does the dehydrating – it’s the fact that lots of people get their caffeine in the form of overly sugared iced teas, sodas, and beverages both hot and cold that may contain some sort of coffee product, but are not actually coffee, all of which will dehydrate you.

I gave up the stuff and endured massive headaches for a week and a half, and then promptly went to the Middle East on a business trip, where coffee and/or tea brewed to the consistency of coffee is served at every meeting, refusing would be an insult, and decaf is an alien concept.  So much for decaffeinating.

However, it does bring to mind that I think we’re now missing the actual point of coffee.  Coffee was never meant to be served in a paper or styrofoam cup and slurped down hurriedly on the way between point A and point B.

Indeed, the ritual of serving coffee to guests, as I’ve experienced more than a few times in the Middle East, is a way of both welcoming them and making sure that they’re not going to run off and leave after just dawdling for a minute or two.  The serving of coffee is a way of saying, “Sit down and get comfortable, you’re going to be here for a while.”

At the court of Zanzibar, one of the most highly valued of the palace slaves was the coffee bearer. Princess Salme Seyyed recorded in her memoir:

Half an hour after the [meal] eunuchs handed round genuine Mocha in tiny cups resting on gold or silver saucers …The coffee is poured out immediately prior to consumption, which task requires such skill that only few servants are fitted for it.

The coffee-bearer carries the handsome pot, made of tin adorned with brass, in his left hand, while in his right he holds only a single small cup and saucer. Behind or next to him an assistant carries a tray with empty cups and a large reserve pot of coffee. If the company has dispersed, these men have to follow the various members, and insure their partaking of the delicious beverage.

How highly coffee is esteemed by the Orientals, everybody knows. The greatest care being bestowed upon its preparation, it is specially roasted, ground, and boiled whenever wanted, and therefore is always taken perfectly fresh. Roasted beans are never kept, nor boiled coffee, either, when in the least degree stale, being then thrown away or given to the lower servants….

In 1729, Johann Sebastian Bach wrote an entire Coffee Cantata.  At that time, not only was coffee a pleasure of the flesh, it was downright evil:

Schlendrian: “You wicked child, you disobedient girl!  When will I get my way?  Give up coffee!”

Lieschen: “Father, don’t be so severe! If I can’t drink my bowl of coffee three times daily, then in my torment I will shrivel up like a piece of roast goat.  [Aria] Mmm!  How sweet the coffee tastes, more delicious than a thousand kisses, mellower than muscatel wine.  Coffee, coffee I must have, and if someone wishes to give me a treat, ah, then pour me out some coffee!”

Schlendrian: “If you don’t give up drinking coffee then you shan’t go to any wedding feast, nor go out walking.  Oh!  When will I get my way?  Give up coffee!”

Lieschen: “Oh, well!  Just leave me my coffee!”

Schlendrian: “Now I’ve got the little minx! I won’t get you a whalebone skirt in the latest fashion.”

Lieschen: “I can easily live with that.”

Schlendrian: “You’re not to stand at the window and watch people pass by!”

Lieschen: “That as well, only I beg of you, leave me my coffee!”

How many people would do that for Starbucks, d’you think?

So, if you’re a slave to the bean like I am, take a moment the next time you have a cup in hand to savor it the way it was meant to be: for the sake of its own character and being. Not as something idly sipped while reading the funnies, the latest stupid forward from that annoying friend who can’t be bothered to send a personal message, or in the car on the way to work. There’s a long tradition behind you, and you wouldn’t want to break centuries of tradition, now would you?

Now, if you’ll excuse me, for some reason I hear a New Guinea dark roast calling my name … :wink:

When bad governments happen to good people, part 2

Friday, February 23rd, 2007

Let’s jump right in, shall we? A court in Alexandria, Egypt, has sentenced an Egyptian blogger to four years in prison for the dual crimes of insulting Islam (3 years) and insulting President Hosni Mubarak (1 year). Human rights activists and organizations around the world are condemning the court’s ruling, which appears unlikely to be overturned.

egypt_blogger.jpgIt’s a sad day for the Egyptians — even those who may have opposed what blogger Abd al-Kareem Soliman may have said on his blog — because it’s another reminder that the Egyptian government is more concerned about maintaining a facade of righteousness and political participation even though it has no real intention of actually providing any sort of moral compass or vehicle for popular political participation. The organization Reporters without Border has already added Egypt to its list of “Enemies of the Internet,” meaning that the country heavily censors what content can be accessed by Internet users within its borders. Egypt was actually added to the list for jailing several bloggers who had been part of a pro-democracy movement that got quashed last summer before the … and I use the term only in the most rudimentary sense … ‘elections’ that most of the opposition parties declined to participate in. Harassment of anti-government bloggers is fairly common.

But Chris, you ask, if things are so repressive in Egypt, why do you go and spend so much time there? I suppose it’s a fair question. Egypt is a fascinating example of a nation that functions in spite of itself, but could function so much better if it had a government that worked with its people instead of against them. Egypt is the largest Arab country, with a population of around 70 million, which is expected to double in 20 years. It also has one of the lower standards of living in the Arab world – this is not Saudi Arabia with its gleaming skyscrapers anchored by Starbucks, Marks and Spencer, and Harvey Nichols. This is a country where the average person makes $1,000 a year. It’s a country where schools run three sessions per day, jamming as many students into each classroom as possible. It’s a country that has seen a steady decline in the standard of living over the past five decades – one of the few places on earth where grandparents had it better than their grandchildren.

This mal-de-vivre has led to a resurgence of spiritual thought-radical Islam poked its ugly head up in the early 90′s, to be replaced by a far more successful conservative social movement. There are far more veiled women in the streets of Cairo now than there were when I lived there in 1995. I distinctly remember being able to walk into stores and make purchases during noonday prayer on Friday in the ’90s – today, the city shuts down on Friday afternoon, a phenomenon echoed to some degree during Sunday morning mass at the Coptic churches. And the Coptic patriarchate and the Muslim hierarchy have started working together on all of those conservative social issues they both support: they’re both pro-life, anti-gay, pro-traditional family. (I’m waiting for the day that the Evangelical Right in the U.S. figures out they have far more social causes in common with the growing Muslim population than they have in differences.)

The problem is that this is all happening outside of normal government channels. A few years back, the government in one of its fits of religious righteousness decided to go after the local gay scene, driving an already underground scene even further underground. But the real problem the Egyptian government faces is that its leader isn’t getting any younger – he’s pushing 80, and he’s passed out in public a couple of times. And the people have made it clear that they’re not going to stand for a Syrian style democracy in which the presidency is awarded to his son when he dies. What will post-Mubarak Egypt look like? Will it be the Islamic republic that the West fears? And, frankly, would the style of Islamic republic that Egypt might become actually be a threat to the West, except in the usual trade barrier sorts of ways?

Speaking of which, the other sad example right now is Iran, where president Ahmadinejad seems more determined than ever to provoke the West while letting all of the problems he promised to fix — rampant unemployment, corruption, declining social services — get ever worse.

What digs at me — I mean, really tears at the heartstrings — is that these are countries with such a proud heritage. They have well-educated, well-intentioned people who are genuinely warm and friendly to outsiders. Imagine what they could accomplish if they had governments that actually supported them and cared about making their lives better. Imagine where our world would be today if they’d been doing so all along.

Bidding Farewell to the Sheikh’s Guests

Sunday, January 28th, 2007

The cedar has finally caught up with me. In central Texas, January is peak allergy season, as the cold air makes the cedar trees in the Hill Country release their pollen and sends allergy sufferers like me running for decongestants and nasal sprays. Today, I’m afraid, I’ve lost the battle and the cedar fever has claimed another victim. I can barely muster the energy to sit upright on the sofa and am currently perceiving the world through layers of congestion and nausea.

This has given me a chance to sit down and write about a gathering I went to on Friday night to bid farewell to Robert and Elizabeth Fernea, two of our oldest and most legendary faculty, who are leaving Austin after forty years to move closer to their two daughters in Los Angeles.

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The Ferneas – Bob and BJ to their friends – were among the first wave of American scholars to work in the Arab world after the second world war. Bob has written a series of scholarly works, but I risk his wrath by suggesting that it was BJ who has actually had the biggest impact.

The young couple spent the first two years of their married life in a small village in southern Iraq in the mid-1950s while Bob did field work to complete his dissertation in anthropology at the University of Chicago. BJ, who spoke no Arabic and had no formal training in social sciences, became his accomplice, as she was able to interact with the half of the population that he couldn’t access in the deeply gender divided village. Her account of those years–Guests of the Sheik: an ethnography of an Iraqi village was the first of many bestselling books that she would write aimed at a popular audience. Others would follow, along with a number of documentary films.

Their co-authored book The Arab World was one of the first books that I read on the Middle East. I found it in a small bookshop in Columbus, Ohio, that specialized in remnants, overstocks, and secondhand books when I was in high school, and I still have it on my shelf, somewhere. BJ’s writings about her experiences in the Arab World inspired me to keep track of my own thoughts while traveling abroad and, indirectly, are quite possibly responsible for this blogs, since it began life as a travel log.

The Ferneas settled in Austin in the mid-1960s, and they’ve been involved with the University of Texas in some way ever since. Their activities put UT’s Middle Eastern Studies program on the map, placing it on par with the much better known programs at the ivy league schools.

The last few years have been rough on the couple. BJ has had brain surgery–the only thing that could possibly slow her down. It’s been a shock to see the little woman who’s always darting here and there faster than people a third of her age needing assistance to walk. Bob, too, had a car accident that had him hospitalized for a few weeks although (typical Bob) it still didn’t keep him from telling the nurses how to do their jobs.

I was a student in one of the last courses that Bob taught at UT. At the time, he was in his late 60s, and would show up for class — Thursdays from 7-10 pm — in flip flops, a loud Hawaiian shirt unbuttoned to his naval, and short, short, oh-my-god short shorts that left nothing to the imagination. He would sit at the head of the seminar table with his gallon mug of coffee and wrap-around sunglasses perched on top of his bald head and hold court. He was the loudest person in the room — something that he still manages to do.

On Friday night, Bob–who is one of those people who never causes you to wonder what he’s thinking–was wearing a leather blazer and a t-shirt with a screened portrait of Che Guevara in a rainbow gradient. And he managed to correct every single story being told about himself by the dozens of former students and colleagues who came to pay their respects at what I am told is the third such farewell gathering.

They’re an interesting pair. Bob wears controversy like a cologne–if you’re not shocked by what he has to say, he feels like he’s not trying hard enough. And God knows I’ve dodged my share of BJ’s phone calls – the woman is impossible to say no to. And they’ve attracted more than their fair share of controversies for their visibility at anti-war rallies (pick a war) over the years.

But the debt we owe them is profound. We can react to their work, we can accept it, reject it, whatever–but in doing so, we have to take what they had to say under consideration. We can fool ourselves into thinking we’re being more balanced, more fair, that we’re doing it better, but they were there first and they did it first, and we will always be following in their footsteps.

So, farewell to the sheikh’s honored guests as you set off for the next phase of your lives together. You leave big shoes to fill for those of us in the next generation. And we’ll miss you.

After all is said and done

Saturday, January 6th, 2007

I have avoided comment on that which came to pass in Baghdad last Saturday morning, in part because if I live to be 100 I will still be trying to get the image of Saddam swinging in the wind out of my head. It was one of those things I wasn’t quite prepared to see as I sat here in my home office chair in my underwear, checking my e-mail and the headlines first thing in the morning before going to start a cup of coffee in the brewer. So far, I have managed not to see the Neck Snap Heard Round the World, and I’d like to keep it that way.

Da Prez finally weighed in on the execution – it took him until Thursday. Now, let’s see: Princess Diana died on a Saturday night, and the Queen didn’t speak about it until Friday — so, I guess she’s still ahead on that one. Does this mean we won’t have to wait as long for a film called The Deciderer in which we get to see action shots of Bush in bed snoring loudly while his archenemy gets the drop and then plot his course through the week in Crawford until he decides he needs to say something about it? Surely Helen Mirren will make a great Laura Bush …

I hate to agree with The Deciderer on anything, but I, too, am troubled by the swiftness of the execution. It reeks of foreign policy by Ann Coulter: “We should invade their countries [check], kill their leaders [check], and convert them to Christianity [wouldn't surprise me if there were missionaries there right now].”

It also makes me wonder how they’re going to hold the umpteen trials for the other charges against him: are they going to pull an Evita and embalm him so that he can still be in the courtroom? And then hang him again and again each time the verdict comes back guilty? (Didn’t they do that with Cromwell?)

For the record: Saddam was probably one of the worst human beings who ever lived, and I certainly have no sympathy for the man. But he’s a political figurehead in a country in the midst of a civil war (sorry, we’re not supposed to talk about that) and heaven knows people love their figureheads. And they’re certainly bigger fans of figureheads who die in circumstances when fans of the opposing team are right there on film shouting opposition slogans. Maybe keeping him alive — at least through his remaining trials — wouldn’t have been such a bad thing in a volatile environment like Iraq when its inthe midst of civil war. Oh, well. Too late now.

I read with amusement this morning that Egyptian President Hosni Mubarak has decried the execution of Saddam Hussein as “disappointing” and questioned its timing. It’s worth noting that he said it in an Israeli newspaper, so he probably felt that this was a really profound statement to offer.

The Big Man (read The Yacoubian Building) is probably motivated by his usual “I’m still the voice of the Arab world” mentality, a problem that Egypt’s leaders always suffer from. Mubarak desperately wishes he were King Hussein – despite the King’s flaws, he had a magnetic presence about him that made people sit up and take note. King Hussein could ramble on for hours about absolutely nothing, and make you feel like you’d witnessed some profound event. When Mubarak speaks, people sit up and start wondering what he’s using to keep his hair jet black.

To be fair, though, Mubarak is probably equally as distressed by the idea that the baddies in the Arab world are slowly being deposed, picked off, or functionally castrated, and sooner or later someone’s going to notice that Egypt ain’t so democratic either and it just might be his turn — after all, this is a quote from the man who is grooming his son to become president after him.

The Arab world is in a sorry state right now as it is. There are two civil wars under way (Iraq and Palestine — and the only reason that the West Bank and Gaza don’t look like Iraq right now is because they can still agree that they hate the Israelis more than they hate each other, although they’ve come frighteningly close to moving beyond that in recent weeks), an almost civil war (Lebanon), a couple of repressive regimes that keep their opposition in check but would explode without lots of pressure from the top down (Egypt and Syria), a hybrid nation that by all logic ought to have imploded decades ago (Jordan), and don’t let’s even get started on the petrolarchies of the Persian Gulf.

Anyway. At this point, I am completely rambling and have gotten off of topic, but there’s some thoughts about the state of the world this morning. Saddam’s gone. We’re shocked, but we don’t miss him. And there are a lot of nervous people out there wondering who’s going to be next. That’s all I’m saying.

When Bad Governments Happen to Good People

Wednesday, November 15th, 2006

I’ll bet you all think I’m about to talk about the U.S. government, don’tcha? Well, you’d be wrong.

On the heels of reading the depressing news out of Iran that I saw earlier (scroll down; I’m too lazy to look up the link right now) and the even more depressing response to it in the comments section of the blogs that have covered it (lots of blanket statements from people who are justifiably upset but directing their anger to the wrong place), I ran across the following article in the New York Times:

Silence and Fury in Cairo After Sexual Attacks on Women.

This caught my eye for obvious reasons – after all, if you know me, you know how I feel about the time that I’ve spent in Egypt and my general affinity for the Egyptians.

In the midst of downtown Cairo — in the same neighborhood where many of the government ministries are located, along with the parliament building — a story has emerged via the blogsphere that illustrates the problem that I think many people in the west just don’t grasp: namely, that most of the authoritarian regimes in the Middle East don’t give a whit about their own populations.

It seems that during the recent celebrations during the Eid al-Fitr holiday at the end of Ramadan, when the streets are filled with revelers and there’s a general party atmosphere, there were a few groups of sexually frustrated young men who chose to express their sexual frustration by chasing down young women in packs and groping and fondling them in public. Consider that this is a conservative society where most people are virgins until they get married and holding hands in public is frowned upon. Since this is also an honor-based society, there were several witnessed who decided to get involved and try to help these women — mostly shopkeepers who were working, since Eid is one of the busiest times of the year.

There was something of a public outcry: where were the police? Why didn’t the state security forces step in to help out? They were in the streets in force to keep order, but somehow they just vanished while all of this was going on. Instead of investigating what went wrong, however, the government response has been to discredit and intimidate the witnesses. After all, you can’t investigate mistakes if they were never made, right?

This has caused an even bigger stink, with the usual sorts of denunciations coming from the state-controlled press — denunciations of the “subversive elements” who are trying to “discredit the state,” that is. The blogger who broke the story on his Web site “The Egyptian Conscience” (الوعي المصري — only in Arabic, but there are pictures and some video), was forced into hiding for a couple of days, and has been denounced in some of the pro-government newspapers for propagating “lies.”

The basic theme coming out of all of this is that the state is trying to protect its own reputation rather than protect its citizens from raving bands of hooligans. Egyptians have grown tired of their government’s inability to provide them with basic services and human rights — fortunately, they happen to live in a state that’s closely watched by the West, so they have some ability to protest and raise their voices in opposition. Some. That’s not to say that human rights violations don’t occur, but they’re not on the scale of some other countries in the region (*cough*iraniraqsaudiarabia*cough*).

If I may be permitted a moment on my soapbox, allow me to ‘splain something that needs ‘splaining. As an American citizen, I have never really had any problems traveling in the Middle East. Arabs are well-known for their hospitality, and I have enjoyed the fruits of that reputation. I was in Cairo while bombs were falling on Baghdad in 2003, the opening salvos of a war that was — and is — extremely unpopular in Egypt and the rest of the Arab world. When I was in Egypt in 2005, I got into a cab one day while a massive anti-war protest was taking place in another part of the city, and the driver asked me where I was from, and then just as casually asked if I was going to the protest. I’ve never experienced a problem because of my nationality because people in that part of the world are perfectly happy to disassociate people from their governments. The simple reason for this is that their governments don’t represent them in any way, shape, or form, and they don’t assume that anyone else’s government does, either.

As much as I get tired of the whole “we’re better than they are” rants that others seem to be inspired to write when, say, Iran hangs someone for being gay — in this case, we ARE better than they are. We have a government that remembers that it’s supposed to provide us with basic services and protect us. Our system ain’t perfect — no system is. Sometimes our government wants to protect us a little too much from tubes of lipstick on airplanes, but would I rather be faced with the alternative described above?

The problem is the lack of popular expression in the Middle East. People are frustrated because their governments don’t give them what they need or want. The gap between rich and poor is growing. And most of the dialogue about change is taking place between governments — governments that don’t have the concerns of the people at heart.

Real change in the Middle East isn’t going to come from the top down, it’s going to come from the ground up, and we would do well to remember that. Otherwise, when the change finally comes, we’re not going to be too happy with the results.

 

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