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About Ramblings of a Hopeless Khowaga

Welcome to my Web site. My name is Chris, and I’ll be your host. I\'m an opinionated, snarky, gay academic with a predilection for the history, the Arab world, languages, photography, food, and music. I live in Austin, Texas. You can read more about me, learn 100 random things about me, and if you’re wondering what the heck a khowaga is, click here. Feel free to browse, read, and leave comments!

Tag: ‘annoying-people’



Cheboygan

Monday, November 28th, 2005

Sunday, November 27, 2005
En route Dammam – Shaybah
Hazy, high 20s C

When was the last time you did this?

I’m sitting aboard a DeHaviland Dash 8-200 somewhere between Qatar and a spot in the massive sand dunes of the Empty Quarter. I never did get that much sleep last night (at 4:30 I was ironing – ironing!), so tonight I believe that I shall try the medication-assisted method of getting a decent night’s sleep. I’m running out of options, as it’s turning me into a complete and utter zombie.

Anyway, enough whining. Let me tell you about Pleasantville, which is the nickname we’ve acquired for the Dallah camp in Dhahran (alternate nicknames include Scottsdale, Phoenix, The Valley, etc.). The Aramco compound is lovely – it has two golf courses, a library, museum, heritage center, community dining hall. There’s a fitness and recreation center, a grocery store, free lawn care, and everything is so perfect and manicured that it’s a little frightening. The thing is, when we left the compound this morning, it doesn’t look like the rest of Saudi Arabia. It’s so isolated and everything functions a little too perfectly, if you know what I mean.

So, my patience is finally wearing thin with one of our group members. He’s a sweet enough man, but he’s a bit too enthusiastic and has a wee bit of an exaggerated notion of his place in the universe at large. He’s from a town in the Midwest – for the sake of the story, we’ll refer to it by the pseudonym of Cheboygan. Cheboygan is a nice enough town to live, but it isn’t the center of the universe (to the rest of us at least). Everyone we have met now knows that he’s from Cheboygan. No one else in the group feels the need to go into such minute detail when introducing themselves. One of the indications that things were going to be a little weird with this particular individual came when we were getting ready to take off from New York, and he stood up while the plane was taxiing to let everyone know that Cheboygan was, inexplicably, one of the towns on the map they show all the time on those flights that let you know where you are.

We visited a lovely private school in Dhahran this morning. And it was a lovely school – there were Saudi kids in 3rd grade who speak better English than I do. We had a meeting with the headmaster, who was telling us about the challenges of education and the major curriculum reform efforts that are taking place in the Kingdom. Instead of letting someone in the group who has some experience in dealing with education (there were 3 of us in this particular sub group) make comments or speak, this gentleman – a businessman – went on at length, and frankly, I think he was making shit up on the spot. Oh, it sounded good … I suppose … but it became a repeated pattern throughout the morning. During our tour of King Fahad University of Petroleum and Minerals, he kept cutting in front of everyone while we were listening to presentations from the various faculty and researchers. He’s short, but he was cutting in front of people who were shorter so that he could be in the front row (and thus make comments before anyone else). I’m not alone in the annoyance factor, either. People have been making aside comments like “Gee, I wonder if they have camels like those in Cheboygan,” or “Not the same as Cheboygan, huh?” Probably not the most constructive way to deal with things, but I’ve decided to give up acting like an adult for Lent.

At any rate. The Fasten Seat Belts sign just came on, and I should put this up. We’re seeing the sun set over the dunes tonight in the Empty Quarter (and it IS empty – there’s a whole lot of nothing down there!). More later, but hopefully not at 2 am again.

The Trick is to Keep Breathing

Sunday, July 18th, 2004

Konya [GP:Konya], mid-20s, clearing skies

We’re at the Konya Hilton, and celebrated our arrival in this most conservative of Turkish cities by drinking upon arrival. We’ve been told over and over that Konya is conservative, that here is no fun to be had here. So, naturally, we arrive at the brand-spanking new 28 story Konya Hilton, which is located next to a shopping mall featuring a bowling alley. Conservative here obviously has a new twist to it.

The day started out wonderfully – yours truly shelled out a bit of money to take a hot air balloon ride over Cappadocia at sunrise, and it was worth every single penny I spent. I only wish the sun had been out a bit more, but the experience itself was incredible. You can’t actually feel the basket moving while you’re in it – and even those of us who are a little weirded out by heights were perfectly fine (although I will confess to being a little nervous when they took us up into the clouds. We weren’t that high – the clouds were low, but it was a little weird. I liked it better when we were brushing against the tree tops.) The balloon I was in is the largest in Asia, and the third largest in the world. Little factoid to make you all jealous right up until you ask how much I spent.

That was the highlight of the day, on many levels. My frustration hit an all time high soon afterward. During the morning, we went to two overlooks with souvenir shops – selling the same crap in both places. Honestly, how many times can you look at the same damn postcards? Where I lost it was what shall henceforth be referred to as The Carpet Shopping Incident. Several of the people in our group had expressed interested in learning how carpets were made, so Ali, our ever effervescent tour guide (who sounds a little like Sylvester the Cat due to a speech impediment) took us to a carpet factory in Göreme. We should have been there fifteen minutes – that’s how long it took for them to explain how carpets are made. We were actually there slightly over three hours. Rob and I lost patience after the carpet making talk and wandered around Göreme, winding up on the front stoop of the carpet gallery watching several kittens play in the street. Göreme, as I mentioned, is a lot like Luxor except that I don’t remember Luxor having quite so many chickens.

After watching the kittens play for a while, we went back inside for the grand carpet laying out ceremony, which was nice in an “are we done yet?” sort of way. We weren’t done yet – not even close. You see, once the carpets were all laid out, showing off the difference in quality, design, and price, they picked them up one by one (all five hundred or so), so that we could announce if we were interested in any of them. (The only carpet that caught my eye was an antique worth nearly $5,000. I took a picture and will blow it up and put that on the floor instead.) The lucky folks who wanted to further discuss were then invited into private rooms, while the rest of us were fed cup after cup of strong tea and/or Turkish coffee while we waited for over an hour. Bad move on their part – a group of people who are getting frustrated should not be given an unlimited supply of caffeine. By the time we finally got to lunch (3 o’clock), tensions were high, words had been exchanged, and feelings were hurt. I wound up having to calm down the group’s self-declared pariah, a woman who is judgmental and loudly outspoken about her own conservative beliefs, and then sulks for days when someone disagrees with her. Today I couldn’t fault her for what had happened, but I was rather annoyed that an unscheduled stop turned into such a huge obstacle.

After that, we resumed sightseeing in Cappadocia, and finally set out for Konya around 5:30. The Nevsehir-Konya highway went from four lanes to zero since it’s being turned into a freeway, and it was nearly 9 PM by the time we finally got here. By this point, my ears were ringing from the noise on the bus, and I was sick of everyone. The lack of sleep didn’t help at all, and neither has the fact that we haven’t had any substantial free time since Nicosia. We haven’t been able to sleep in, and we’re always on the go. It’s been stressful, and it’s going to keep being stressful for a few more days. The trick here is to keep breathing…

Rain, Rain, Go Away …

Friday, July 16th, 2004

Ankara [GP:Ankara], low 20s, rain. It’s cold and I wish I had a jacket.

Typing this on the spot, which is as unusual as the layout of the keyboard that I’m using.

I’ll write something more detailed later – There’s really not so much to say about days of lectures and another visit to the Anıtkabir. Remind me to tell you all about Richard.

Last night, I ventured out wıth Rob and Ali, our tour guide for the next portion of the program, to a local club about the size of my living room where a live band played covers of songs that were never really popular in the first place. It was fun, but we were out late, and my mental attitude was less than stellar today. I’d like to blame it on the lack of sleep and the fact that the only thing more stupid than Rob continuing to order more rounds of beer last night is the fact that I kept drinking them, but I really can’t.

Now is the portion of my journal where I sit in the pool hall/Internet cafe and tell you about all the people on the trip that are annoying the crap out of me. I will try to keep it short enough so as not to acquire emphasema while I type…

There are questions I have about why some of these people are here. Witness the one woman who asked the following question. We were at the offices of the Southern Anatolia Development Project (GAP), a multi-zillion dollar endeavor that is supposed to bring the area of the southeast hinterlands into the 21st century, stem the flow of rural to urban migration AND piss off Iraq and Syria all at the same time. The President of the project, who took time out of his schedule to meet with us in his office (a schedule which included face time with the President of Syria the day before), and this woman, whose questions we save because they’re worth writing down, asks the following question: Could you tell us a little about the knick-knacks on your desk? (You think I’m kidding? I wish…)

Then we have our hyper-Christian who refused to set foot in one of the mosques in Northern Cyprus because it had originally been a church and she couldn’t bear the idea of sanctioning that kind of desecration (given that the Ottomans have been gone for nearly a century, one wonders exactly how her entrance could be construed as sanctioning anything). She has no filter between cerebrum and tongue and has absolutely no ability to tell when she’s asking inappropriate questions – of any one at any time. Given that I brought Ray to our last dinner in Austin, I’m sure you can imagine some of the conversations the two of us have had. This morning we had a faculty member from the Department of Theology at Ankara University speak to us on Islam and she sat and wrote postcards the whole time. I repeat – why, exactly, are these people here? Oy, vay.

At any rate. I have enjoyed Ankara fully, cult of Atatürk and all. Ankara is just a bit too familiar – last night at dinner in a restaurant in an old Ottoman house on top of a hill overlooking the city, I was struck by a wave of homesickness and a realization that despite the fact that it feels like I’ve been gone forever, there’s still a long way to go before we’re done. I’m game, but tonight I plan to go to bed really early. Even the most ardent and enthusiastic of us need to vent and keep to ourselves for a little while from time to time.

Off to Cappadocia in the morning. Sorry to leave Ankara (sorrier still to try to figure out how to get all that stuff in my suitcase again), but happy to move on all the same…

 

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