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About Ramblings of a Hopeless Khowaga

Welcome to my Web site. My name is Chris, and I’ll be your host. I\'m an opinionated, snarky, gay academic with a predilection for the history, the Arab world, languages, photography, food, and music. I live in Austin, Texas. You can read more about me, learn 100 random things about me, and if you’re wondering what the heck a khowaga is, click here. Feel free to browse, read, and leave comments!

Tag: ‘blogging’



Here, there, everywhere

Friday, July 3rd, 2009

I’m currently sitting in seat 5B on an AnadoluJet flight from Ankara to Sanli Urfa in the southeast part of Turkey.  We’ve been moving rather quickly these past couple of days — while we were sitting in the airport in Antalya, from whence we departed just a couple of hours ago, we had to take a moment to reflect on the fact that we have been in the country all of three days.  It feels like we’ve been here much longer.

In all honesty, this program has gone much better than I had let myself hope.  The organization that I’m working with is somewhat legendary for packing the itineraries on these trips so full that at least half of the participants wind up having to sit out a day or two due to illness incurred from lack of sleep.  Hence, I’m rather pleased that it does appear that they listened to my pleas not to overschedule the program, even if at first glance it may not have appeared as such.

When last I checked in, I was on an early morning flight to Izmir, Turkey’s third largest city.  I’ve never actually been to Izmir, and that, unfortunately, didn’t really change this time either.  We were met at Adnan Menderes airport and boarded a bus from which we went directly to the Greco-Roman city of Ephesus, an hour south.

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This was the group photo that we took that somehow I never wound up actually being in.  (“Hang on, I’m going to use my timer … where are you all going?”)  Oh, well.

There are, for the record, a lot more photos on my Flickr account.  As I’m doing most of my blogging offline, it’s very difficult for me to link to them from here, but check them out, OK?

Where was I?  Ephesus.  It’s a large old city, and I’ve been there before.  Still looks old.  The new attractions this time around were that the very large amphitheater was open (last time it was closed), although I walked in, took one look, and realized that I would have given myself heatstroke walking up to the top.  Instead, I discovered the other new attraction: Royal Caribbean and Celebrity Cruises pay local people to dress up like Romans and act out cheese-tastic skits for their passengers coming in from the nearby port of Kusadasi.

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This appeared to be a swordfighting match – it was kind of hard to tell, since the two fighters just yelled a lot a la Conan the Barbarian.  I guess that’s what you have to do with such a multilingual crowd.

After Ephesus, we went up the hill to the Meryamane Evi, the house where it is reputed where the Virgin Mary lived her last years in this earthy existence.  Most of you probably do not recall (as I don’t think I blogged it at the time), but the last time I was at Meryamane, one of the people in my group pitched a complete and utter fit in the parking lot because one of the interpretive signs at the site said that Mary lived there “until she died.”  As good Catholics know (and this woman was a better Catholic than you, and wanted everyone to know it) Mary did not die — she fell asleep and was lifted into heaven by angels.  The fact that she had earlier sneered that Eastern Orthodoxy was still full of superstitious beliefs that had been removed from Catholicism was an irony lost only on her.

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Anyway, as pieces of real estate went, Mary had a pretty nice one.  It’s set on a hilltop just outside where the walls of the city of Ephesus would have been located amongst the fir trees and pleasant flowering vines, and it catches a nice sea breeze coming in off of the Aegean Sea.  I should be so lucky.

Then came the visit to the pottery factory.  I’m always resistant to these sorts of “quick visits to a local factory” because they inevitably turn into sales pitches, but it wasn’t bad as these things go … and it turns out that membership has its privileges.  She knew the group we were with and offered us a 50% discount on the spot.  Unfortunately, that means that most of it was still out of my price range, but …

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Purdy, ain’t it?

After that, lunch at a ranch … that turned out to just be a ranch.  No actual house there — we thought we had been invited to someone’s home for lunch, and that turned out not to be the case.  They did, however, have a random yurt in the yard, which got us going on at length about words that are fun to say — “yurt” being one of them.

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Yurt!

So, after the yurt excursion, we did a double-shot in Selcuk to the site of the Basilica of St. John and the so-called Jesus Mosque.  The problem with the first is that they don’t actually know who St. John was — they’re not sure if it’s the Apostle, the one who wrote the Gospels, the one who wrote Revelation, or a completely different John.

It’s a prettier site than I remembered, though:

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Next door is the mosque of Isabey.  Isa is the Islamic name of Jesus, but despite the fact that everyone said it was the Jesus mosque, it turns out that it was named for some guy who lived in the thirteenth century named — you guessed it, Isabey.  Close, but no cigar.

After that was our first visit to a school on this trip, which was interesting.  As of now, we’ve had three with a fourth pending.

Shortly after the school visit, it was back to Adnan Menderes airport for a flight to Antalya that arrived at 11:30 pm.  Exhausted,we trundled off to the Marmara Hotel, which turned out to be a five star deluxe on the coast (not to be confused with “the beach”).  But when your coast looks like this, who cares?

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The day was fraught with various ventures: morning visit to the Antalya Museum, followed by lunch at a local school, followed by a walking tour of old Antalya that lasted for three whole blocks.  Again, when the blocks look like this, who am I to complain?

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This was followed by the inevitable shopping excursion to a carpet store.  The guide was very sneaky on that front — after consulting with our hosts, the four of us had unanimously decided that there would be no carpet shopping.  Then prayer time came and the three of them went into a nearby mosque to pray …and so the tour guide suggested that a nice place to wait for them might be the carpet shop.  Ha ha!  I went into the mosque and sat in the air conditioning instead.  If I buy a carpet — and that’s a big if — I’ll do it in Istanbul at the end.  I’m flirting with overweight luggage flying domestically in Turkey and I don’t need that weighing on my conscious.

I’m going to wrap up this narrative here.  At the moment it’s half past midnight in Sanliurfa (see map), and although I’m wide awake, balancing a hot laptop on my stomach isn’t the best thing to do to get ready for bed.  More later …

“I Shall Go and Find the Door Handle”

Sunday, March 22nd, 2009

I inadvertently took spring break off from blogging.  It wasn’t my intention, but I spent the latter half of the week at a conference back up in the northeast, and I just couldn’t bring myself to post more “don’t want to be here, conferences suck” type rants.  The conference was productive, although all of the productivity took place outside of the panels and in discussions over lunch, dinner, the hotel bar, while drinking copious amounts afterward at the bar, etc.  The former involved stuff you wouldn’t be interested in, and the latter involved discussions of circumcised pigs.  (Long story.)

Anyway.

While I was gone, Ray made the bold and decisive move that this weekend we were going to refurbish the front door, paint it blue, add hardware, etc.  Ray normally has visions of home improvement projects that are grandiose, and his singular choice of blue was almost unprecedented (when we pass from this earthly life and are buried, one of us will have an epitaph that says, “Where do you want to be buried?” and the other will say, “I don’t know, where do you want to be buried?”).

So, here is the “before” shot:

… and here is the “after” shot:

Not bad for a few hours’ work, if I do say so myself.  Which I do.  So there :)

Hope your weekend / spring break was fun and exciting, and full of kosher food from the house of Genghis Cohen!

Border Issues, or, Return of the Sepulchre Volante

Wednesday, February 25th, 2009

It’s a week after I swore up and down that I was going to make a concerted effort to return to blogging on a more regular basis, and this would be my very first post since then.  The irony is so rich that I could serve it with ice cream.

I have a valid excuse: for the past couple of days, I’ve been on the road down in the Rio Grande Valley.  On Monday, we were conducting training in Edinburg, Texas, and on Tuesday, we were in Laredo:

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I took my camera with me, convinced that photographic opportunities were going to present themselves.  Unfortunately, save for the cemetery that was overrun with balloons (the one that I drove past at a good sixty miles an hour), not much appeared that was photo worthy.

I’ve always enjoyed traveling down to the Valley.  The people we’re down there to train are always unbelievably savvy and actually interested in what we’re there to do (and turn out in good numbers — our session in Edinburg may well have been the largest one we’ve ever done).  The Valley itself is quite unlike anywhere else in the state of Texas, which is another reason why I like going down there.  You drive and drive across miles of ranching land (which, to the naked eye, would appear to be synonymous with “nothingness”) and then, just as you reach the outskirts of the urban areas on either of the two highways that run down there, a most interesting geographic transformation takes place.  All of a sudden, the scrub land gives way to lush, green fields.  Cactus becomes palm trees.  And suddenly, it feels like you’ve managed to drive through a wormhole into south Florida (senior citizens with RVs included).

We’ve done work in Brownsville, Texas, before, which is absolutely the end of the line.  There’s no part of Texas farther south than Brownsville – from that point forward, it’s all Mexico.  This time, we were in Edinburg, about an hour’s drive west. 

Our local contact in Brownsville, with whom we’ve become friendly over the years, used to take us to a restaurant across the border in Mexico.  This trip, however, we didn’t discuss crossing the border.  For one, the passport requirement for land crossings kicked in last month, and I don’t like using my passport to enter the United States because apparently there’s something on my Customs and Border Patrol record that makes immigration officers frown.  Second, and more critically, the situation on the Mexican side of the border is pretty tense at the moment.  The State Department issued a warning last week for Americans traveling in the border region, and a good number of the bridges were shut down due to citizen protests believed to have been orchestrated by one or another of the drug cartels battling for control of the major cities along the US border.

So, after we completed our session in Edinburg and headed north for our first-ever session in Laredo, we did not cross the border and take the more direct and apparently superior Mexico Highway 2 that runs between Reynosa and Nuevo Laredo.  Instead, we took the main highway on this side, US Highway 83.

I wrote many months ago about a trip in a service taxi in Morocco that we’ve since dubbed the “flying coffin.”  The trek on US 83 kind of reminded me of that trip.  It wasn’t that I was pulling up behind semi-trucks and then pulling out blindly into the opposing lane to execute a passing maneuver, as our insane Moroccan driver had done, but it certainly was interesting in a “Aren’t you glad you have Mutual of Omaha?” sort of way.  Vehicles pulled out onto the road (which becomes two lanes after civilization is left behind — which happens very quickly) apparently without regard or interest to whether there was oncoming traffic and whether or not it would have time to slow down.  More than once, I got sweaty palms noticing large vehicles in my lane that were traveling in the opposite direction, in the midst of trying to pass slower vehicles but in no particular hurry to get back over to their own side.

And then there was the omnipresent border patrol.  At nearly every vista where the mostly flat geography was interrupted by a hill that afforded a view toward the border off to our left, there was an SUV from the border patrol parked on the side of the road, apparently full of officers who were, presumably, less interested in illegal immigrants than drug traffickers.

I won’t say that it wasn’t a great relief that we managed to reach the outskirts of Laredo before the sun went down.

Our contact for the next day was a very excitable lady who, while very nice, was also a level of manic that might require medication.  Within two minutes of her arrival in the morning, we had established where we would be having lunch.  She also gleefully told us that there had been so much interest in our session that she had reopened registration the day before — which would have been fine had this not left us going through all of our things hoping for one or two copies of brochures and worksheets so that we wouldn’t find ourselves in the awkward position of telling people that they had to share.  Fortunately, at the end of the day, we managed to scrape by with nearly no extras, but enough things for everyone in the room.

Over lunch, she regaled us with stories of life on the border.  “I won’t go over there,” she said.  “It’s really bad.  I mean, they kidnap Americans for the ransom.  Even though I’m lower middle class, we’ve already figured out that if one of us gets kidnapped, we can count on our friends to raise thirty, forty thousand dollars for ransom for me.”  (How this situation would present itself in light of her first statement was a question none of us wanted to raise.)  She then went on to tell us, “You know, they harvest organs over there.  The media doesn’t report on this stuff, but I know it’s happening.  I mean, if you’re sick and you can find a rich American than no one’s going to miss, you kidnap them and take them to the black market.  Look at any one of you — I mean, you’re young and fit.  They’d take your kidneys without a second thought.”

She then went on to tell us that she really wanted to get a gun.  “A cousin of mine lives in Houston, and she carries, and this one night she was being followed and the car pulled up next to her at a light.  So she took the gun out and put it on the dashboard, and they drove off in a hurry.  So, I want to get one, too.”  Clearly her kidneys depended on it.

And so it was, when I rolled into my driveway last night, with both of my kidneys still firmly in place, that it occurred to me to wonder whether that was an indication that I’m no longer young and fit, and my kidneys aren’t desirable.  Hey, wait a minute!  How come the Laredo cartel doesn’t want my kidneys?  They’re perfectly good! 

Hmph.

Anyway.  That was my last trip for a while.  I’m looking forward to being able to put my feet up and relax this weekend, free of travel plans and hotel rooms and chain restaurants.  The conspiracy theories do make for good blog fodder, though …

Lifestyles of the Straight and Hopeless

Wednesday, February 18th, 2009

I realize that I neglected, in my not-terribly-triumphant announcement that I am returning to blogging more frequently, that I neglected to provide any details about Saturday evening.

Every so often, when I’m out in public, I observe the mating habits of that most intriguing of creatures, homo sapiensis heterosexualis, and I wonder–sometimes to myself, sometimes aloud–how it is that our species has managed to propagate itself as long as it has, given that, well, straight boys are just completely inept. Honestly. The survival of mankind as we know it depends on this??

I should preface this by acknowledging that Ray made what is not an entirely inaccurate observation about me. When I’m out in public, and I see someone who looks young, I tend to comment that they’re “twelve!” Ray gently pointed out that it’s not that they’re getting younger, it’s that I’m getting older. I prefer to think that it’s both, but whatever.

We started Valentine’s Day evening at a local wine bar, Cork and Company, where we had a couple of glasses of wine and some cheese. It was here that I had my first great revelation of the evening: I don’t know anywhere near enough lesbians. I like lesbians. In fact, it’s entirely possible that I enjoy the company of lesbians more than I enjoy the company of many gay men. We were seated at the bar (stupid me: it hadn’t occurred to me to make reservations at the bar that I planned to go to before dinner–this is why I hate Valentine’s Day!) next to a pair of lesbians. I don’t know if they were a couple or not, but they were a hoot to watch. They kept the alcohol coming, and they were no-nonsense, and god help the meandering soul who got a little too close to their space. They even managed to get the bartender to watch their seats for them while they went outside to smoke (Austin’s starting to make California look pro-tobacco).

On the other side of us was a young straight couple (me: “He’s twelve!” Ray: “He’s got three wine glasses in front of him. He’s clearly over 21.” Me: “He can’t possibly be shaving.” Ray: “You do know that he’s two feet away from you and can probably hear every word you’re saying, right?”). In all honesty, these were straight people who were significantly less inept than the others I observed later. She had on a nice dress; he was wearing a suit, and they seemed to be engaging each other in some conversation that prevented him from hearing (or at least acknowledging) the bitterly aging queen sitting next to them.

Then we strolled off to dinner. I had managed to secure late reservations at a Mediterranean restaurant called Taverna. They have a sister branch in Dallas that I’m convinced that I’ve been to, which is more Greek in style. The one in Austin is decidedly Italian. I kind of want to try the one in Houston just to see if it’s Lebanese.

Anyway, Taverna isn’t the cheapest place in town — it’s midrange, and I knew it because when I was spending a lot of Fulbright’s money last summer, I took a group of twenty there for dinner and earned a few frequent flier miles for it. I recalled that we enjoyed the food, and I thought it might be a nice place on Valentine’s Day.

Dirty business first: Ray had the veal parmagiana, I had butternut squash risotto with sea scallops. They were both good. Moving on.

There was another (presumably) gay couple sitting next to us. We decided that we were cuter than they were, and so that was that.

At my eleven o’clock, there was a young Latino couple. (Me: “They’re twelve!” Ray: “They’re not twelve. They have drinks.” Me: “They’re drinking soda.”) He was in a shirt and tie (no jacket), and a pair of loafers that had seen better days. He was slouched so far down in his seat that it was a wonder that he didn’t have to put his plate in his lap in order to eat. She was dolled up in a cute dress. I don’t know what the story was, but I tend to form judgments when, for example, it’s Valentine’s Day and the waiter hands the check to the woman and she pays. That’s just not right.

About halfway through the meal, another couple came in and sat at my nine o’clock. She was wearing a gray dress and had clearly spent hours getting ready. He clearly had not. He was wearing an untucked shirt over a paid of jeans and black athletic shoes. If I were her, I’d have left his sorry ass standing at the door. He spent the whole meal leering at her as if he was just going through the motions so that he could get to the part later where they have sex. Assuming that she didn’t dump him after dinner.

Which, of course, leads to the other thing I find weird about Valentine’s Day. You’re supposed to get dressed up, go out, eat a lot, have dessert, and drinks, and then … who still feels sexy after that? I felt kind of bloated.

But still. Every time I’m out in a formal setting, I tend to look at the straight couples of whom society approves, and I wonder … “How in the name of God have we not died out yet?” Because sometimes … it just doesn’t make that much sense.

And So …

Tuesday, February 17th, 2009

I haven’t posted much lately.  If you’re still with me, you know that, and if you’re not … well, you’re not going to read this anyway, so fuck you.  (and I mean that in the nicest possible way.)

It hasn’t been the best few weeks.  When I’m stressed, I tend not to want to take the time to blog.  Things like 12 of 12 are easy because they don’t involve a lot of thought (except for the usual conundrum of how to make another day in the office seem easily through photographic evidence).  I don’t want to rehash the drama: it’s all work-related, and it’s had me tied up in knots, and not in the good way.

And so.  Today there was resolution, although not from the quarter that I expected.  Part of the frustration came a week ago when I had a meeting with my boss in which it really seemed as though he was blaming me for not being able to read his mind.  (Seriously.  I reviewed the events of the meeting with someone else who was there just to make sure that the only possible way that the situation could have been avoided would have been for me to engage in telepathy, and this was confirmed.)

Today, however, there was the final postscript and the revelation that the situation that aired itself last week unsatisfactorily was a symptom of a more general problem that I can fix.  The irony, of course, being that I have sat through countless discussions with my boss in which he’s told me he likes to fix problems, not symptoms, and yet he was only presenting me with symptoms to fix.

So, now we can move forward.  I hope.

There’s no movement on the other major drama front: Professor X is currently not speaking to me.  (Yes, this is the same Professor X who supervised the long-gone and not-missed SHE).  It’s amazing sometimes how ostentatiously people can ignore you when they want you to know passively that they’re upset with you.  This would bother me more if I actually gave a damn.

I was more upset that Professor X’s first salvo was to go into my assistant’s office and lose his shit.  They have a history, but she no longer works for him, and he can’t do that sort of thing anymore.  When he came to me, I backed her up, and now he’s not speaking to either of us.  Good riddance to bad rubbish.

Let’s see, what else … I’ve been all over creation lately.  Denton last weekend (if you don’t know where it is, consider yourself fortune), Houston the weekend before, and some hotel the weekend before that.  Doesn’t matter where, I never got to leave it.  Next weekend I get to go down to the Rio Grande Valley, which I’m looking forward to, because we always get a good reception down there.

And it looks like I get to go to Turkey this summer.  And maybe, just maybe, I’m gonna tack on a week in Cairo after.

Gee, I guess maybe you haven’t missed out on much after all. 

At any rate.  I’m going to try to be better about blogging now that I feel like I can do something personally that doesn’t involve ranting about hating everyone I work with.  I’ll change tactics and just rant about how I hate most of the people I work with ;)

 

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