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About Ramblings of a Hopeless Khowaga

Welcome to my Web site. My name is Chris, and I’ll be your host. I live in Austin, Texas, with my partner, Ray, and our child dog, Mocha. You can read more about me, learn 100 random things about me, and if you’re wondering what the heck a khowaga is, click here. Feel free to browse, read, and leave comments!

Tag: ‘cooking’



Chiles en Nogada

Sunday, September 19th, 2010

A couple of years ago, I had the lovely fortune of being in the Mexican town of Puebla when chiles en nogada were in season.  The dish is associated with Mexican independence day (September 16 – not May 5!) because Diez y Seis falls during the season when walnuts are being harvested and can be found in every market.  I was on this trip with my friend Natalie, and we were pointed to a particular restaurant in the Zocalo in Puebla in the lobby of the Hotel Royalty (that’s “roy-AL-tee”) where, our foodie friend informed us, the best chiles en nogada in Puebla were to be had.

The restaurant barely merited a second look – it was bland, not terribly well decorated, and (never a good sign), pretty empty.  The chiles were, however, divine.  Poblano chiles stuffed with a picadillo of ground meat and dried druit, covered in a walnut cream sauce and sprinkled with pomegranate seeds – the dish with its green, red, and white colors is supposed to invoke the Mexican flag.

Earlier this week, Lisa at Homesick Texan, one of the food blogs I regularly read, posted an “easier” recipe for chiles en nogada.  I sent the link to Natalie and said, “I think we should make these this weekend.”  Natalie said, “I’ll bring dessert!”

I won’t repost the recipe here since it’s Lisa’s doing and I don’t want to steal her thunder (although I did add a quarter cup of dried cranberries to the picadillo).

Nogada

Here’s most of the stuff that went into it.  I forgot a couple of things, but by that time I couldn’t re-shoot the photo neatly.

I started with a bit of prep work (normally, I’m really lazy about these sorts of things).  Natalie at one point asked, “Are you going to photograph the entire process?”  Me: “yup.”  Natalie: “You’re a dork.”  Me: “I know.  Would you have it any other way?”

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So, we’ve got some chopped Granny Smith apple, garlic, tomato, and onion.

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First thing I did was heat up the grill (yes, it needs a good scrub down), and set the chiles out to char.  You can do this in the oven, but then the whole house smells like roasted chiles afterwards, and since it’s still too hot to open the windows in Texas, that’s not really a good thing.  I find it easier to do on the grill anyway.

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Chiles off the grill, nice and blackened.  Into a bowl, cover it with plastic wrap, and leave them to sit for 20 minutes or so.

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The ground pork goes into a pan to brown.

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In the meantime, the walnuts that I’d put into the oven to toast come out.  We have to let them cool, and then Ray and Natalie set to work peeling the skin off.  There’s no really easy way to do that.

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Onion, Garlic, and spices get added to the meat …

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… followed by the dried fruit, some pecans, and tomato.  This sits for a while and cooks down nicely.

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In the meantime, I peel the chiles and seed them.  I do not have enough experience in this area to seed roasted chiles and keep them intact enough to steam.  Usually I wind up having to wrap the chile around the stuffing afterwards and set it seam side down.  Clearly I need to go back to Puebla and enroll in a cooking class to remedy this.

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Open the pomegranate and seed it.  (Careful, the juice stains everything it touches!)

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Quick assembly: Stuff each of four chiles with a quarter of the picadillo.  The walnuts go into a blender with cream cheese, milk, sour cream, a touch of cinnamon and salt, and then pureed into a nice creamy mixture.  Sauce goes over the chile, and then it gets sprinkled with pomegranate seeds, and you serve it right away.

The verdict?  They weren’t the chiles en nogada I’d eaten in Puebla, but they were pretty damned good.  This is definitely going into rotation in my house … but maybe as more of a special occasion meal.  Or a cooking with friends kind of thing.  Also, it uses every dish in the house …

Happy diez y seis everyone!

New Year’s Revolutions

Thursday, December 31st, 2009

Impulsive New Year’s decision: I am going to attempt to do a 365 photo project in 2010.

The basic idea is that you take (and, ideally, post) one photo every day for a year. I already know there will be a couple of days of delayed posting, but I’m gonna give this a shot. Just warning everyone now, there’s probably going to be a lot of photos of me, Ray, the dog, and whatever I’m cooking for dinner.

This official announcement is supposed to be incentive for me to actually follow through…we’ll see how long I make it!

Anyway, if you’re crazy enough to want to follow along, my 365 project has its own subdomain: 365.khowaga.us.  Or you can susbscribe to the RSS feed which, in an effort to be considerate, is separate from the blog feed.

So, wish me luck!  And Happy New Year, everyone!

It’s not paranoia if the universe really is conspiring against you.

Friday, October 23rd, 2009

It all began with the shortribs.

A few days ago, I was cruising through the grocery store and saw beef shortribs on sale, and I was reminded of a recipe for curried short ribs that I’d seen in a recent issue of Cooking Light, the only cooking magazine that I actually subscribe to.  In addition to liking spicy food, I remembered the recipe because it involved a crock pot, and I also enjoy the concept of having dinner waiting when I get home.

I bought some of the shortribs and, Wednesday night, I diligently went through the steps to get them ready so that when Ray left the next morning, all he’d need to do is take the crock pot insert out of the fridge and push “start.”

I remembered thinking when I put everything together that it didn’t seem like there was that much liquid in the basin, but … well, the people that do these things have to know what they’re talking about, right? After all, one of the final steps in the process involved creating a serving sauce out of the cooking liquid.  I assumed/hoped that the remaining liquid was supposed to come out of the meat itself and took that leap of faith.

This was my first mistake.

I came home yesterday hoping to smell the pleasant odor of succulent shortribs that had been slow cooking all day.  Instead, I smelled charred meat.  I casually went through the motions of taking off my jacket, putting my phone on to charge, and emptying out my backpack before venturing over to the crockpot — after all, if the meat really was charred, another minute wasn’t going to make a difference after six hours in the crockpot, now, was it?

I was half right: the sauce had congealed and was now a black, crusty, burned mess all over the base of the crock pot.  The meat, however, past a crunchy outer shell was still pretty tender and moist.  This isn’t to say that I didn’t have a moment where I considered tossing the whole thing out and texting Ray to pick up something from Taco Bueno on the way home from class.

However, I perservered, shredding the beef and cobbling together a red curry and vegetable sauce to go with it.  Fortunately, Ray actually enjoys cremated beef, and I’m not enough of a connoisseur to know the difference (I’ve only recently, tentatively, re-introduced dead cow into my diet after years of avoiding it).

The crock pot, by the by, is still soaking in the sink — I haven’t managed to get all of the black stuff off yet.

So I came into work this morning and realized that my desk was beyond messy and that it was finally time for me to do something about it.  While in the midst of clearing off paperwork dating to the late Neolithic period from my desk, I heard a thunk behind me.  I turned around to discover that my bookcase, which I wasn’t working with … or touching … had chosen that exact moment to collapse downward: the textbook-laden top shelf had given way downward, thus causing the shelf below to collapse onto the shelf below it, and so on.  Given that the whole thing looked like it was about to pitch forward, I immediately turned my attention to that situation immediately, discovering after repeated trial and error that the force of the downward pressure was pushing the sides of the bookcase out, meaning that the shelves weren’t reaching their mounts.

At one point, there were papers strewn all over the desk and chair, books on the floor and loveseat, and me looking like I wanted to cry in the middle.  When I vented about this to Ray later, he asked, “Did you take a photo?  Sounds like good blog material.”

Which it was, but let me assure you, dear readers, that the presence of mind I would have needed to think of that at the time was far, far away.

When I finally managed to get it all cleaned up–and I did manage to get it all cleaned up, I sat down at my desk, whereupon the speakers that I have mounted to the underside of the hutch that runs over my computer speakers promptly fell off with a loud clatter.

And so, speakers remounted, bookcase put back together, desk now clean and presentable, I am doing the only thing that I can think to do next: whine about it to as many people as possible.

Don’tcha feel lucky?

Food Porn

Tuesday, September 8th, 2009

Changing tactics from my liberal ranting of the past 48 hours (I’ve lost two friends on Facebook … can’t figure out which ones, though.  It’s entirely possible that it’s the notoriously unreliable friend counter, but I prefer to think I’ve annoyed people), I’ve decided to go the food porn route.

I had a dinner party on Sunday.*  At the request of my guests, it was the long-promised Greek dinner party (that is, a dinner party where Greek food is served, not … well, whatever your mind came up with).

And so, let’s do some food porn!

Here was the menu:

Mezze course:

feta cheese
Greek and California olives
Greek pepperoncini
pita crisps
bissara (Egyptian fava bean dip)
hummus
grape leaves
tzatziki

Main course:

Pastitsio
Spanakopita

Dessert:

Baklava

As usual for me, I tend to wayyy over plan dinner parties, so I decided to cut out the soup course (it would have been lentil soup) because, well, there was too much food as it was.

So.  Food porn.

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Thursday night I rolled the grape leaves.  The recipe that I used is from this book: Little Foods of the Mediterranean: 500 Fabulous Recipes for Antipasti, Tapas, Hors d’Oeuvres, Meze, and More.  I didn’t take any photos, you see, because it was a repetitive boring task, and the best way to deal with those is to drink while doing it.  Which means that I was a little … um, my hands were wet, and I didn’t want to hold the camera with wet slimy hands.

That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

Friday night, I soaked the fava beans and garbanzo beans for the various dips, and made the baklava.  (If you need to see how that worked, just check out my last 12 of 12).

Saturday morning it was time to make the bissara and hummus.

Bissara is an Egyptian fava bean dip.  Egyptians use fava beans — fuul in the local parlance — in the same way that the people of “Greater Syria” use the chick pea (also: garbanzo bean, in Arabic both the legume and the dip that’s made from it are called hummus).  You find hummus, and its eggplant-based cousin (known more popularly as baba gannouj, although in Greek it’s melitzanosalata) in Greek food.  Oddly, although fava beans are all over Greek food, bissara is not found on the Greek table.  It is, however, one of the few parts of Egyptian food that I like (I love Egypt, but Egyptian food is never … ever … going to be the next great thing on the world foodie scene).  The recipe came out of the above book.

I chose to make it anyway (food porn above).  It’s fava beans cooked onions, garlic, cilantro, dill, mint, parsley, pureed, and then cooked again with coriander, cumin, and cayenne.  It was a decent hit.

I also made the hummus on Saturday.  I’d never made it with dried beans before (instead of cans).  I kind of liked the way it turned out.  The recipe came from Anne-Marie Weiss Armush’s classic The Arabian Delights Cookbook: Mediterranean Cuisines from Mecca to Marrakesh.  It has attracted praise from actual Middle Eastern people, so I hold it in high esteem.

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Spanakopita.  Classic Greek mezze: spinach and various salty cheeses (feta, kefalotyri, and myzitra) in phyllo.  I made it Saturday evening.  This is my yia yia’s recipe, and it’s extremely variable — she wasn’t particularly the kind of cook who measured as she went.

And now, for the piece de resistance: Pastitsio.  It’s a sort of Greek lasagne.  Yia yia enjoyed the pastitsio, but she never made it, so I had to find another recipe to use (other than the one in the 1960s era cookbook I inherited, the one written before health care professionals started recommending against using lard and butter in copious amounts).

I used (and adapted) this recipe right here.  The taste is spot-on, however the white sauce that the recipe links to never actually set during the cooking process.  My guests didn’t notice, but I did.

Pastitsio (Greek Lasagne)

Here’s what you need:

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  • 1 1/2 pounds of tubular pasta (in this case, I used Pastitsio #2, acquired from the local Mediterranean market.  You can also use ziti or straight macaroni.  Do not use elbow macaroni.  I will come find you and beat you with a wooden spoon.)
  • 1 cup of olive oil
  • 2 cloves of garlic, finely minced
  • 1 1/4 cup of chopped onion
  • 1 pound lean ground beef
  • 1 pound ground lamb
  • 2 cans diced tomatoes, drained
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons of ground cinnamon
  • 6 whole cloves
  • salt
  • pepper
  • 1 1/2 cups of grated kefalotyri cheese
  • béchamel sauce with cheese or basic béchamel

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Sauté the onions until translucent in 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large heavy-bottomed frying pan.

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Add meat.  Cook until lightly brown, stirring to break it up.

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Add the tomatoes, cinnamon, cloves, garlic, salt, and pepper and stir well to combine. Reduce heat and simmer until liquid has been absorbed, about 30-35 minutes. This is very important–the meat mixture should be as dry as possible without sticking to the bottom of the pan. Set meat mixture aside, uncovered, and allow to cool.

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Preheat oven to 350F. Lightly grease a baking or roasting pan approximately 11 X 14 X 3 inches high. The height of the pan is actually very important–the sauce has to go on thickly.  It turned out that I didn’t have a pan high enough and so … well, I had to throw half of the white sauce out (although it wasn’t a major loss).

Boil the pasta, drain, toss with olive oil to keep from sticking together.

Now, your Greek mother who has nothing else to do … or your gay Greek dude throwing a fabulous dinner party to impress his friends with his cooking ability (which, given his inability to dance, dress particularly well, fix up his single straight friends with his other single straight friends, and his complete intolerance for shopping excursions longer than 30 minutes in length is pretty much ALL HE HAS LEFT) … will line up half of the pasta in nice, neat rows, and sprinkle it with 1/2 cup of kefalotyri.

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Layer on the meat sauce.  Sprinkle with another 1/2 cup of the kefalotyri.  Line up the remaining pasta.

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Make the white sauce … just not the one attached to the about.com recipe.  Find a recipe for bechamel and make it.

Pour the bechamel on top — this is why you need the pan to be 3 inches tall.  You’ll wind up with 1/2 inch or so of sauce that will puff up as it cooks.

Bake for 30 minutes.  Then rotate the pan 180 degrees, sprinkle on the remaining 1/2 cup of cheese, and bake for 15-30 minutes more until the top is golden brown.

Pastitsio is served warm, not hot — you don’t want to serve it right out of the oven.

The final food porn: the set table:

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My Turkish mezze platter:

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Grape leaves and tzatziki.  I love garlic, but … well, I may have finally met my match on garlic.  10 cloves of garlic is a bit much for 17.5 ounces of Greek yogurt (also: 2 tablespoons of minced fresh dill and one cucumber, seeded, peeled, grated, and drained).

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And yes … there are leftovers.  And man … it was yummy :)

* OK, let’s get this out of the way: given my current record of promising and then delivering dinner parties, you need to have known me for at least eight years before you can expect to actually be invited to one.  So, no, you weren’t invited, and it’s not because I don’t like you.  It’s just because I haven’t known you for eight years yet.

Still here … wherever "here" is

Wednesday, July 8th, 2009

Yes, yes.  You’ve noticed I’ve been the great not-there.  Haven’t followed up my last post with any more stories about my jam-packed visit to Turkey.

Well, as it happens, the program ended this evening.  We had our farewell dinner – some of the group is hanging about Istanbul for a few days; I, myself, am heading to Cairo.  I look forward to catching up with old friends, but mostly, I look forward to not having a group in tow.  And also having clean clothes.  At this point I’m actually debating whether to stop at the laundry before I get to the hotel.

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Here I am making my Turkish television debut as co-host of Turkey Today (Bugun Turkiye).  I look all official and stuff.

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And here we all are on the set of Yesil Elma (“Green Apple”), Turkey’s number 1 cooking show.

Anyway.  It’s been an interesting road.  I still haven’t had much time to put thoughts together, or even to try to put proper captions on the photos that I’ve uploaded to Flickr.  I’m really looking forward to just having some time to sit back and relax in Egypt.  Most people don’t associate Cairo with relaxation, but I’m willing to give it a shot…

 

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