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About Ramblings of a Hopeless Khowaga

Welcome to my Web site. My name is Chris, and I’ll be your host. I live in Austin, Texas, with my partner, Ray, and our child dog, Mocha. You can read more about me, learn 100 random things about me, and if you’re wondering what the heck a khowaga is, click here. Feel free to browse, read, and leave comments!

Tag: ‘coptic’



Confessions of an Arabic Learner

Friday, December 11th, 2009

The other day whilst trying to set up an appointment to discuss a project with our associate chair, she mentioned casually that she couldn’t meet one afternoon because she was supposed to be on Wisconsin Public Radio.

“Really?  Why?”
“I’m … not actually sure,” she said.  “They want to talk about learning Arabic?”

Well, the interview is now online, and it’s quite the doozy.  For those not inclined to listen to the whole 54 minutes, the first five will do it — it’s long enough to establish the following:

  1. The woman doing the interview is a complete idiot.
  2. The woman doing the interview did absolutely no research on how to pronounce the name of the book that she’s supposedly basing the entire interview around (“Al-Kitaab fi ta’alum al-’arabiyya” — she shortens it to “Al-Kitaab,” which means “the book” and would be pronounced as a mashup of the two common English words “kit” and “tab” as they are pronounced by Americans.  Not only can she not do this, she actually changes the way she pronounces it over the course of the hour several times).
  3. The woman doing the interview clearly did not ask one of her interviewees, Mahmoud al-Batal, how to pronounce his name, as she consistently pronounces it wrong (and, again, her pronunciation changes over the course of the hour) — which, I’m sorry, is a horribly egregious error.  I’ve had people make sure they’re pronouncing MY name correctly before, and my name is pretty damned easy.
  4. The goal of the interview is to make learning Arabic sound as difficult as humanly possible.  Whether this was the stated goal or not, I don’t know, but I was alternately amused and astonished by her inability to move beyond the fact that Arabic is read and written from right-to-left (and also to find out exactly why this is — including, if possible, assigning personal blame for it).

My favorite part of the hour is that you can practically hear the two interviewees looking at each other and trying to nonverbally work out how to respond without calling the interviewer a complete moron.

Anyway, for those who are so inclined, here are some reflections about learning Arabic that I’d like to share.  This is based not only on my knee jerk reaction to this interview, but from the 16 years of experience I’ve had being a white guy learning and speaking Arabic and responding to  questions from those who do not.

Things that are not actually difficult about learning Arabic as a foreign language.

1. The alphabet (more correctly in this case, it’s an abjad).  Arabic has an actual alphabet.  Each letter stands for a specific consonant sound.  It’s not written in characters.  Once you learn the alphabet–which took about three weeks when I started, but that’s because Arabic 101 only met twice a week–it’s a non-issue, and you don’t have to revisit it ever again unless you decide to take up a language that uses the same alphabet but has more letters (Persian, Urdu, and Malaysian, for example), in which case you’ll have to learn the new letters.  It’s really not that hard.

2. Arabic is always written in cursive — even when it’s printed or typed.  It was bewildering the first time that my Arabic instructor, having taught us the letters a, l, k, t, and b (ا ل ك ت ب) put them all together to form “alktab” (al-kitaab, الكتاب), “the book”.  You stare at it for about 10 seconds, and then it clicks.  By the end of the first class of 101, this is not an issue anymore.  I’ve done this with 6th graders.  They can get it.  It’s really not that hard.

Explaining this to Hollywood, on the other hand, is another story.  I’ve lost count of the number of times that I’ve seen Arabic text in the background that doesn’t connect — which, frankly, renders the text unreadable.  Most recently, some characters on the show “FlashForward” traveled to Hong Kong looking for Shohreh Aghdashloo (who must be desperate for work), and stopped by an Iranian restaurant she was known to frequent.  The restaurant’s sign was in English and Persian (written with the Arabic alphabet) … and the Persian letters didn’t connect.

I also once saw improperly formed Arabic tatooed on a guy in a Sean Cody video.  Poor guy.

3. Sounds that aren’t in English. Once you learn how to say them properly, you get over it.  However, contrary to popular belief, there are actually four H sounds in Arabic, and only one of them sounds like forming a spit ball.  The alphabet is fully phonetic — every letter has one sound.  And it’s always the same sound.  Unlike English.  Contemplate, if you will, the utter uselessness of the letters c and x sometime — both simply replicate sounds produced by other letters — x has no unique functions (it can be represented as “eks”), and c’s only unique function is in the syllable “ch” as in “choose”.  K and q aren’t as differentiated as they ought to be — as in, for example, the Arabic ك  and ق

4. Reading and writing from right to left. Although our interviewer gets hung up on this, it’s probably the biggest non-issue of them all.  It just is.

5. The lack of a “be” verb. There is no verb “to be” in Arabic (it’s a Semitic language quirk — there isn’t one in Hebrew, either).  “be” is implied.  To say you’re a student, you say, انا طالب, which is literally “I student.”  The “am” is implied.

Things that are more difficult about learning Arabic as a foreign language.

1. The non-writing of vowels. Like every other Semitic language out there (except, apparently, Amharic, which at some point gave in), along with a number of other languages that use abjads, vowels — specifically short vowels — are not written.  Normally this isn’t such a problem, however, to continue with our example, let’s look at ktb — كتب.  It could be “kutub” (books), it could be “kataba” (he wrote), or it could be “kutiba” (it was written).  You have to figure it out from context, which is a bit of an advanced skill.

2. The lack of cognates with English. The running joke when learning Spanish is that you can add “o” to the end of an English word and make it a Spanish word.  It’s usually not true, but it’s based on the number of cognates between the two languages — words that are similar enough in form and meaning that speakers of one can understand the other.  In Arabic, however, you can’t add “al-” to the front of an English word and make it correct — it’s kind of a crutch that the non-fluent but advanced speakers can use when speaking to a bilingual crowd so as not to break stride — I’ve thrown English words in when I don’t know the Arabic ones — but it doesn’t work in casual conversation.  The only cognates you’re likely to find are ones that were English to begin with: al-internet.  al-kumbyootir.  ad-dimuqraasiya. at-tiknuluujiya.

3. The lack of a “be” verb.  Where the lack of the be verb gets tricky is in the way the language has compensated for it — while there is not a verb for “to be,” there IS what my first Arabic instructor went to very great pains to make sure that we all understood was definitely NOT a verb for “to not be.”  Similarly, there is a not-verb for “to have been.”  Never mind that both look, smell, sound, and function like verbs in every other way, except, of course, for the fact that they’re not verbs.  Dammit.

4. There are no irregular verbs in Arabic. There are 500 regular verbal patterns, 495 of which only apply to one verb each.

5. Broken plurals. Similarly, there are lots of patterns for pluralizing words … and many of them are really irregular.  Grad students like to sit around and make up broken plurals for English to amuse themselves, which is how we decided a few years ago that the plural of “Bi-otch” is “Bowatchaa’”

6. Diglossia.  This is probably the biggest challenge for the learner of Arabic as a foreign language.  “Arabic” — the language that is taught in a classroom, is often Modern Standard Arabic, a constructed high language based on the language of the Qur’an (but not necessarily mutually intelligible with it).  It is grammatically rigid, nuanced, and eloquent.  It is not, however, what people speak in their daily lives.  Countries, regions, cities all have their own dialects that are based on MSA, but have been influenced over the centuries by other factors.

The Egyptian dialect–the one I’m the most familiar with–contains both words of Turkish origin (from the four centuries of Ottoman rule) as well as words of Coptic origin (Coptic is the language of the Egyptian Christian church, and is descended from the ancient Egyptian language).  In fact, I have a book on my shelf that outlines the number of words in Egyptian Arabic that can be traced back to the days of the pharaohs.  The Moroccan dialect, by contrast, contains a lot of words that haven’t been used since the medieval period in other parts of the Arab world, as well as a lot of Berber and French.

When I first arrived in Egypt as an undergrad, I had two years of Modern Standard under my belt and found myself unable to communicate with another living soul.  Those who could speak Modern Standard usually tired of hearing me struggle and would switch to English, which they usually spoke better than I could speak Arabic.

New textbooks now introduce dialect early on — as well they should.  I couldn’t even agree with people — I’d been taught to use the formal na’am, while most people in the eastern Mediterranean actually say aywa.

A few thoughts to throw out there — Arabic is definitely a challenging language, but the things that most people get hung up on aren’t even an issue.  Get over the squiggly letters and the right-to-left, oh interviewers of the world!

And, for God’s sake, quite trying to figure out whose fault it is … yeesh.

12 of 12: July 2009 / ١٢ من ١٢: يوليو ٢٠٠٩

Sunday, July 12th, 2009

It’s time once again for 12 of 12!  This 12th of July, I’m in Cairo, capitol of the Arab Republic of Egypt.  I’ve been out of the US since June 29 — I was in Turkey for 10 days and flew down here on the 9th.  (For the record, and if you’re interested, there are photos from Turkey here).

I’ve been in Cairo many times — I studied here for a year in university — and it’s one of my favorite places in the world.  This is my first visit since 2006. I’m here on a combined business / vacation trip.  Although today is a business day (the work week in Egypt is Sunday through Thursday, since Friday is the communal day of prayer in Islam), I didn’t have any meetings scheduled, so it was kind of a fun day.

7:52 am: Skyping with Ray

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I’ve been waking up kind of early since I got here, and I caught Ray up late at home so we talked by Skype for a bit.  Mocha was in the picture for a bit, but she never quite looked at the camera.  Sorry, Mocha fans, there are no photos of her this month :(

10:00 am: Errands

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After pretending to go back to sleep for a bit, I finally wandered out around 10 o’clock to go pick up my laundry from the place down the street.  The laundry is in the same complex as the supermarket, so I stopped in to pick up some water and soda first, and then carried it all back to the hotel.  It was warm in Cairo today (102 F/41 C), and unusually humid.  This is, lamentably, still cooler than it is at home in Austin.  Tomorrow it’s going to be cooler – by Tuesday, it’ll be 91 (36).

1:56 pm: Christian Cairo

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I met up today with Tarek, our junior professor in modern Arabic literature, and we went down to the so-called Christian quarter.  It’s in the oldest part of the city, which actually predates the city of Cairo by 300 years.  A little-known fact: around 10 per cent of Egypt’s population is Christian, belonging to the native Coptic Church.  In an area of town called Mar Girgis, there are a number of churches and one of the few synagogues remaining in the country, all clumped together.

Tarek and I first hit the Coptic Museum (no photography allowed), and then wandered through the rest of the complex.  Although it’s a tourist draw, most of the people there were Egyptian, which was OK by us.

2:11 pm: St George’s Cemetery

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That’s Tarek taking a photo of the mausoleums in the Greek Orthodox cemetery behind St. George’s Church.  There are a bunch of mausoleums and family plots back there.  I was a bit surprised to find the tomb of someone with the same name as my grandfather — how many Neoklis Triantafillides’s could there have been in the Greek speaking world?

2:16 pm: Water from the Holy Well

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Although it’s not spelled out in the Gospels, the Egyptians have an entire itinerary set out for exactly where the Holy Family (Mary, Joseph, and the infant Jesus) traveled during their flight into Egypt.  In the cemetery is a crypt built over a cave where the Holy Family is said to have sheltered and drawn water from the well above.  As Mary (as Meryem) and Jesus (as ‘Issa) are both revered as prophets in Islam as well as Christianity, you can see adherents of both faiths making pilgrimages at these shrines.

2:51 pm: … you crazy, adorable fool

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The oldest known synagogue in Egypt still in existence, the Ben Ezra Synagogue, is in Mar Girgis as well, although, once again, no photography allowed.  Tarek and I got the royal tour, and were shown to the ‘Ayn Musa, the spring of Moses, located behind the synagogue.  This is said to be the spring where Pharaoh’s daughter drew the baby Moses from the Nile (the synagogue is said to be on the place where Moses pleaded with God to stop the plagues inflicted on Egypt).

3:12 pm: Off to Lunch

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OK, by this point in the day it was really hot in the sun and time for lunch.  Tarek and I had made plans to meet up with some students who are here for the summer, so we set back off for the area where I’m staying and several of the students live.

I am routinely asked by people if I feel unsafe traveling to Egypt as often as I do.  The answer is no – I have been coming to Egypt for 15 years, and I’ve never hidden the fact that I’m American, nor that I’m Christian (I don’t mention the part about being gay, however — that’s one barrier I’m not willing to cross here).  I’ve never been greeted with anything but kindness by people here.

The one place I do feel unsafe is on the road, however.  Egyptian taxis are built like tanks, but it doesn’t stop me from flinching often when riding in them.  Cairo is horrifically congested (by most unofficial estimates there are 20 million people in the Cairo/Giza/Shubra el Khayma metropolitan area) and it can take ages to get anywhere.  The Metro, wisely, is more for local use than tourists (it’s also not air conditioned), so we decided to cab it.

3:44 pm: Decisions, Decisions

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We met up for lunch at Abu Sid, a local upscale Egyptian restaurant.  You can get just about everything they serve on the street, but without the nasty side effects afterwards :)

5:38 pm: Towel Art

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Back on my own, I headed back to the hotel — a small, unassuming place run by a lady who governs with an iron fist.  I had forgotten that I’d hung my socks on the towel rack to dry after handwashing them in the sink this morning.  Hence, the guy who cleans the rooms at the hotel got a little creative with towel placement and left me a duck!

8:05 pm: Sunset

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In my food coma haze, I checked e-mail quickly and read while half watching episodes of the less successful Law and Order franchises (Trial by Jury; Trial by Fire; and Parks and Recreational Petty Crimes Division).  I lose track of the time until I hear the call to prayer wafting in through the window, meaning that it’s sunset.

8:45 pm: Evening Traffic in Zamalek

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I wander out, mostly from sheer boredom, and it’s traffic as usual in Zamalek on a weeknight.  Cars and pedestrians going every which way.

10:06 pm: Dessert before dinner

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One of the students calls to see what I’m up to and invite me to tag along to dinner (they eat late here).  I’m not that hungry, but first we stop in at a local bakery/sweet shop that I’ve frequented since my student days.  They churn out really nice baked goods–baklava, basboussa, kinaffeh–and ice cream as well.

For the record, we didn’t actually eat this stuff until after dinner (the shop was on the way to where we were going).  That would have been totally crazy … *innocent look*

And that was my 12.  How was yours?

Random Round Up

Tuesday, September 19th, 2006

 

It’s a Tuesday, and I don’t have a car, so I’m reduced to sitting here trolling the Internet and flipping channels. (OK, the thing about me not having a car is probably just an excuse cuz I don’t have money anyway, but let’s pretend that’s not the case).

The next hot destination?

The New York Times Travel Section did a piece on Ethopia this weekend — ironic, given that the piece of hooey that I’m watching on the National Geographic Channel right now is about the Ark of the Covenant and they’re in Ethiopia looking for the Ark. It might be plausible, except that they’re using Graham Hancock (one of the world’s most pre-eminent pseudo-scientists) as their resident expert.

17ethi

Above: One of the churches of Lalibela, carved by hand out of solid rock

The country has a sad recent history, which belies its status as one of the longest-lived countries in Africa. It traces its origins back to Biblical times — the Ethiopians themselves claim the Queen of Sheba as one of their own, although Yemen (across the Red Sea) has an equally strong claim on that. They claim that Judaism came to Ethiopia from a starry-eyed legendary encounter between the Queen of Sheba and no less a personage than King Solomon. The Coptic Church of Ethiopia is one of the oldest in the world. There are even some theories that the Knights Templar had a hand in the construction of the rock-hewn churches of Lalibela. Of course, those might be fueled by some of those racist theories that suggest that any wonder in Africa must have been undertaken by white folks because black Africans couldn’t have thought of them all by themselves. (Gotta love revisionist history).

I think that Ethiopia looks beautiful in all of the photos I’ve seen, and I haven’t met anyone who’s been there who had anything bad to say about it. I’d love the chance to go there, especially before it becomes the new ‘it’ destination (Dubai or Cambodia, anyone?) and suddenly every schmoe with dreads who works in a coffeebar has an opinion on where to get the best doro wat in Addis Ababa.

Of course, I don’t quite have the money for that Abercrombie and Kent tour of Ethiopia, so unless we manage to squeeze Ethiopia into the Middle East and I can wheedle some compelling reason for a business trip, it looks like I’m going to have to content myself with National Geographic specials and Graham Hancock books and the occasional visit to Ethiopian restaurants whenever I find myself in a town that has them…

It Might Be Time to Say Goodbye

From mystical Ethiopia to my penchant for bad Swedish pop music, my ever-embarrassing guilty pleasure (for the record, I’m far less self-conscious about telling people that I’m gay than I am about telling them that I like Swedish power-pop bands).

Anyway, Roxette premiered their new music video One Wish on TV4 this morning (I don’t get Swedish television in Texas, natch). The single hit radio a few days ago in Sweden, but I’m not such a big devotee that I listen to Sveriges Webb-Radio nonstop on the off chance that they’ll play the single while I’m tuned in.

My love affair with Roxette has been waning for a while. They haven’t released a decent album since Have a Nice Day! in the late 1990s. Their 2001 release Room Service was a bit of a disappointment.

This is a band whose lyrical quality has always left something to be desired — who else could pull off lyrics like:

No changing in the weather
No Elvis in the leather
I got a crush, got a crush on you

– but they usually made up for it with guitar hooks so sharp you could cut through a tin can with them, harmonious vocals, and melodies that could get stuck in your head for days.

Room Service lacked something – real instruments, perhaps? Aside from the lyrically inane hit single The Centre of the Heart (is a suburb to the brain) [see what I mean?], most of the album’s songs sounded like they were written because the band was under contract and had to come up with something.

It’s not that Per and Marie have lost their touch. Per’s 2004 solo album Mazarin was light and catchy and poppy and stayed in my car for months – and it’s in Swedish, for heaven’s sake. His Son of a Plumber project from earlier this year is a retro-playground. Granted, it’s not all lyrically deep (let’s be honest: Double Headed Elvis?), but Per’s never been about being deep: he’s all about having fun. Similarly, Marie’s Min bäste vän, released earlier this year, covers everything from jazz to soul.

So what, pray tell, is the impetus for One Wish? See for yourself:

In the meantime, maybe Per and Marie should agree to call it a day… Their hearts clearly aren’t in it anymore — and my money sure ain’t, either.

Homecoming, or, the incredible crucifix hammer

Sunday, June 26th, 2005

Cairo, about 85 degrees, partly hazy

We arrived back in Cairo yesterday morning, and it really was something of a homecoming. Back to the same hotel, with the overly friendly staff with their hands always out to help … or ask for a tip. maalesh as they say here – it’s just the way it is.

Yesterday was not a good day with the bus. We arrived at Rameses station bright and early – about an hour late; it was around 8 AM when we arrived. There was no bus to meet us. Our group managed to attract no less than 9 tourist police who went looking for the bus, and then rounded up taxis for the group. The group actually found the taxi ride fun, which was fortunate because we had to do the same thing when it came time to go to the Monastery of Barsoum el-Aryan in Helwan and the bus didn’t show up then, either. Laila from Fulbright was with us and her driver organized yet another taxi caravan down into the southern suburbs. When Laila finally got Hala, the travel agent, on the phone she did a much better job of exploding than I could because Laila can do it in Arabic. Also, Laila does lots of business with Hala, so I’m sure the decline in service quality was not unnoticed. When the phone was finally handed over to me there were lots of “reallys” in the apology from Hala.

Anyway. The monastery visit was surreal. We were greeted by an Egyptian nun with absolutely no personality whatsoever, whom we dubbed “Mother Superiorer,” because her general attitude was that she’s superior-er than you. Mother Superiorer reminded me very much of Lurch, the tour guide I had last summer at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul. “This is icon of Our Lord Jesus. Now we shift to new place.”

His Eminence Picenti, Bishop of Helwan and Ma’asarah was an interesting character. He rambled on at some length, reading for a while, then expanding on what he’d just said, and talking very, very quietly. At one point, he showed a map of the Holy Family’s trip through Egypt (the one not documented in any of the 4 Gospels that he insists are the basis of Coptic Christian beliefs), and there was some rustling about while a sheet was produced for the overhead, since the wood panel walls weren’t particularly conducive for an overhead projector. Then there was some fumbling with thumbacks, and His Eminence startled all of us by pulling out his large, heavy cross and using it as a hammer to nail the thumbtacks into the wall. It was like the proverbial fart in church – the giggle loop started and wouldn’t die. For me, the worst thing was that Kamran was sitting behind me and he was really, really trying (unsuccessfully) not to laugh – and since he never, ever does that, it was hard for me not to follow suit. The non-giggling continued for a while.

I won’t repeat the material of the lecture, since it was rather inconsequential. His Eminence did go on at some length about how homosexuals and women priests are the downfall of mankind, and there were a few quotes worth writing down, for example: “Woman is like the crown on the head of the man.” I’ll give the group credit – we waited until we got on the bus (which showed up an hour late to pick us up) until the incredulous comments started to fly.

Today, there were two lectures at Fulbright. I missed the first one, since I needed to print out the schedule and get some stuff taken care of. The second lecture was on Islam in Egypt by a Professor of Shari’a (Islamic Law) at Al-Azhar University, which is still the preeminent religious institution in the Sunni Muslim world. He was, in a word, fanstastic. I wish there were more people like him on CNN and less clips from the bin Ladens of the world. Some of the Islamophobia of the world might be a little less virulent if that were the case. Fulbright has definitely come through with the lecture program, and we’re not even halfway through.

The afternoon discussion session – mine – went well, too, although we got kind of silly toward the end. I invented an Egyptian peasant named Edna Mae who took on more characteristics than I expected her to, but what the hey. I got the point across. Kamran took Barbara back to the hospital, and they took 3 of her stitches out, and the other 3 will come out in 3 days. (Lots of 3s). Her leg is healing nicely, and they even cleared her to go swimming in the Sinai this weekend.

At any rate. Tomorrow we’re off to the Old City for the first time, with a visit to my ever-favorite place, the Mosque of Ibn Tulun. And I’m actually well rested for once!

Back in Upper Egypt

Monday, June 20th, 2005

Esna, 90 degrees, hazy

We arrived this morning at an ungodly hour at the Luxor train station, having spent the night in the Egyptian National Railways Corporation’s premier service, the Acela sleeper train from Cairo to Luxor and Aswan. Not sure it was worth the money. I didn’t sleep a wink, although I did get to see several parts of Egypt I’ve never seen before – Minya, Assyut, Qena – by looking out the window at appropriate intervals. It all kinda looks the same at night, but who can really tell out of a dirty train window anyway?

Yesterday – God, was it yesterday? – we went to Old Cairo and toured a couple of the churches and the synagogue. The group really enjoyed it, although the heat and what I’ll tactfully call ‘adjustment difficulties’ have started to wear thin on everyone. Shirin – habibi – has started to become the running joke amongst us. She was doing so well, but she made a few slips that sent eyes rolling. For example, she asserted at one point – after lecturing on the history of the Egyptian Coptic Church and how important it is in Egypt – that Egypt’s population is 85% Muslim and 15% Catholic. Also, the Church of Abu Sergia is the oldest church – you guessed it – of the world. We’ve started making up our own stuff to go along with that. “This is the first railway of the world,” “This is the first ballpoint pen of the world,” and so on. It’s kind of lame, but who can blame us?

Anyway. The hotel staff in Cairo was only too happy to let people into my room to store their luggage while we’re in Upper Egypt – when I wasn’t there, when I was in the shower, when I was trying to deal with the unexpected beef in my lunch and its effects on my system. We somehow got everyone into the bus in one piece and off to Doqqi for their Arabic lecture. Again, I was pleased both with the lecture that Fulbright set up and the way the group responded. Dear God, they actually wantto learn how to say things in Arabic. Where have these people been for the duration of my professional career?? For the first hour, I went with Barbara back to the hospital in Mohandeseen to have her sutures checked (looks good), and Kamran went to the bank to retrieve our Visa debit cards. They look like the kind of I.D. cards that get spit out of a machine when you buy an annual pass to Six Flags or get your Costco membership renewed, but as long as they work I’m not complaining.

The train. I suppose it was worth the price, but we arrived exhausted at 5 AM. We were met, escorted on the bus and taken to a Nile Cruise boat. Not our Nile Cruise boat, mind you. We were supposed to be docked in Luxor for two nights and then sail upriver to Esna, Kom Ombo, and Aswan. However, over the course of the next two hours the story emerged in full: the locks at Esna are shut for maintenance, and the boats can’t get past. So, we’re actually based in Esna and have to drive back and forth to Luxor. Yay.

We then went off to Karnak and Luxor temples. Our new guide, Mohammad, is great. Very informative. Although, poor guy, there were some giggles when he made a “This was the first….” statement. It was a true statement, but we’re all so conditioned to react to that phrase…

Much sleeping this afternoon. This evening, some of us ventured forth into the wilds of Esna. It’s a sleepy place, having a field day with all the boats moored along the Corniche, and the people are friendly. It’s actually kind of nice – Luxor can be a bit wild with the tourist sharks, and they’re not so bad here.

At any rate. We’re off to the Valley of the Kings at a ridiculously early hour – it’s hot down here. But it should be fun, especially with enough sleep for once…

 

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