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About Ramblings of a Hopeless Khowaga

Welcome to my Web site. My name is Chris, and I’ll be your host. I\'m an opinionated, snarky, gay academic with a predilection for the history, the Arab world, languages, photography, food, and music. I live in Austin, Texas. You can read more about me, learn 100 random things about me, and if you’re wondering what the heck a khowaga is, click here. Feel free to browse, read, and leave comments!

Tag: ‘Cyprus’



About the Banner: Istanbul

Thursday, October 12th, 2006

Turkish novelist Orhan Pamuk was awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature today, and this has inspired me to create a new banner:

Istanbul

The original photo is here, not much different from the cropped version used in the banner:

IMG 4583

This is Istiklal Cadessi (Independence Avenue) in the heart of Beyoglu, Istanbul’s fashionable European inspired neighborhood. Istiklal is the wild heart of cosmopolitan Istanbul, where cultures, races, creeds, nations, and genders all come together in a loud bizarre mishmash the likes of which you haven’t seen unless you’ve rewatched Tales from the City recently.

I went to Turkey in 2004 for the first time on a Fulbright program that took us first to the troubled island of Cyprus. Coming from a Greek-American family, I’d heard all of the horror stories about both places, about what “they” did to “us.” For the record, both halves of my family are from Greece proper, and we have no relatives in Cyprus, so I’m not sure who “us” is, but that’s another story altogether. As I had begun to suspect, after some time in both places, I realized that most of my relatives had no idea what they were talking about.

On the other hand, there are skeletons in the closets of all three nations: Cyprus, Greece, and Turkey, and so far it seems that Cyprus is the only one of the three that has even remotely begun to take a hard look at itself (even though it’s also the only one that has reason and motive to place a good chunk of the blame for its current situation on outsiders).

When I suggested at a recent family gathering that Greeks and Turks have more in common than they do in difference, my aunt began speaking in tongues and crossed herself so much that I was afraid she’d develop carpal tunnel syndrome. Her Greek sister-in-law (by which I mean that she’s actually from Greece, not of the diaspora) was far less troubled by this statement. And so the struggle continues.

Which brings us back to Orhan Pamuk. He’s been in trouble in Turkey recently for taking his government to task for not allowing open discussion of That Which We Shall Not Discuss: namely, the issue of what happened to Turkey’s Christian minorities in the waning days of the Ottoman Empire (whether it be genocide or not), and the issue of Turkey’s Kurds, for whom the problem can best be summed up in a statement that I heard in a lecture in Ankara: “There is no Kurdish problem. There is no problem for the Kurds at all. They can be anything they choose, as long as they choose to be part of the Turkish nation.”

Pamuk’s greatest achievements, though, as Svenskaakademien recognized in their choice, have to do with his writing. His books play off the conflict and union of cultures as East and West have combined to create something new. Anyone whose read any of his novels recognizes that he’s also taken a uniquely western form of writing (the novel) and made it into something new. (My personal favorite is My Name is Red, set amongst intrigue and murder in 16th century Istanbul).

Pamuk is only the second writer from an Islamic country to be awarded the prize, the first being Egyptian writer Naguib Mahfouz, who died in August. Where Mahfouz was a popular writer, Pamuk seeks to re-define writing on his own terms. Both of them have loads to offer us in the West by way of introspect into how a part of the world that we view only in terms of difference and conflict really thinks, feels, and acts.

The Power of Positive Thinking

Tuesday, July 13th, 2004

Ankara [GP:Ankara], low 30s, partly cloudy

Two sides of the same coin today with dramatically different results. The afternoon – the significantly less interesting part of the day – was a lecture from a professor at Middle East Technical University (obviously designed by the same people who did American University – it has the same “Let’s subdue Poland” kind of architecture). She talked about the Turkish political system and then gender politics – and I’m still not sure what gender politics actually is, because what she talked about wasn’t what I associate with gender politics.

At any rate. Dry lectures – everything bad about Turkish society is found in the countryside. Apparently, just by driving over the city limits you become sophisticated and incapable of following – and I quote – backward traditions. What was more interesting was the tight line that our lecturer walked. She was much more open and honest than our speaker yesterday (she didn’t, for example, go off for 20 minutes about Cyprus when she found out we’d just been there). It was interesting but far too long, and for some reason we have yet to find an air conditioner that really works.

The morning was the much more interesting experience. We went to visit a community center in a gecekondu – literally “built in one night,” it’s the name given to the neighborhoods that were originally squatter settlements built in the countryside. Shades of Tanzania and India from last summer. Here’s a group that started an organization to help themselves get ahead, focusing on women and youth programs.

The people were just incredible. One of them arrived somewhat late, and explained in Turkish that she’d been sick before launching into song while playing the saz – a stringed instrument that’s a bit smaller than a bouzouki. I don’t know what she was singing, but the raw emotion coming out of this complete stranger as she sang for us was overpowering. There were several wet eyes in the audience, among them one of our hosts, Seçil from Fulbright. Seçil is Elegant with a capital E, and very prim and proper, so when she burst into tears while one of the women was reading a poem she’d written, it was unexpected and very profound. We spent barely an hour and a half there, but the bus was strangely quiet as we drove away – and with this group, that’s a very strong statement.

Turkey still perplexes me. It’s familiar and strange all at once, and I don’t really know what to do about it. I’ve thought it was boring at times – it’s not exotic enough, everything is too familiar – and at other times I’ve found it bizarre and fascinating. I wonder if that conundrum will ever go away.

Walking the Party Line

Monday, July 12th, 2004

Ankara [GP:Ankara], about 32, partly cloudy

First full day in Turkey. The program in Ankara consists of a lot of lectures that are supposed to provide background to the activities we’ll be doing the rest of the time we’re here. So we set off this morning for the campus of Bilkent University in the suburbs of Ankara. I’m not exactly sure which suburbs as my mental map of the city appears to be upside down.

Bilkent, founded in 1986, has a stunningly beautiful campus that would work off my gut quickly as it’s all hills, like the rest of Ankara seems to be. The campus is new, gleaming, and modern – I shall quit using these words as they would be repeated often in trying to describe most of the parts of Ankara that I’ve seen thus far. Bilkent describes itself as the best university in Turkey, and it was certainly impressive, I’ll say that.

Our first lecture was on Turkish foreign policy from a guy who gave us our first real dosage of The Truth As it is Told in Turkey. All of the regular cast members were present: There Was No Armenian Genocide, There Is No Kurdish Problem, and The Problem In Cyprus Is All The Fault of the Greeks. While there ARE two sides to every story, and I certainly spent a lot of time in Cyprus trying to read between the lines, there was no real opportunity for line reading because truths set in stone don’t use lines. Nor was discussion appreciated. My tongue was bruised by the end because I bit it so much during the proceedings. We’re guests here and I won’t complain to anyone but my journal. The lecture was useful because it provided a very firm grounding in the official Turkish perspective – I worry, however, that because we’ll be moving around so much we won’t have much of an opportunity to get the unofficial Turkish perspective. The sheer rigidity of the lecture left little room even for exploration of any of the issues – I don’t know where we’re going to get another side of the story while we’re here.

Another lecture in the afternoon – the transition from the Ottoman Empire to the Turkish Republic – would have been interesting if the room weren’t so hot and the professor’s English dotted with a very bizarre accent that I’d never heard before – he seemed incapable of pronouncing the letter “d” properly, which is strange because Turkish also has the letter “d.” All the same, I was a little embarrassed at how many people in our group appeared to be completely incapable of keeping their eyes open.

After the lecture we went to the Anitkabir – the mausoleum of Mustafa Kemal Atatürk. I actually enjoyed the experience – the place certainly gives an idea of the reverence this nation has for its leader. I, myself, am still torn about Atatürk. How in the world did this man who looks almost exactly like Bela Lugosi manage to convince an entire nation to throw away centuries of tradition and follow him? I suppose one has to take the Machiavellian view that the end justified the means – Turkey certainly is a forward thinking nation – but I can’t help wondering how some of the things that he did were perceived at the time. It’s hard to ask. I tried to ask someone today how the move of the capital from Istanbul – the imperial capital of the ages – to Ankara, which at the time was a backwater, was perceived – did people think he’d gone completely mad? No, of course not, they understood. I just couldn’t help thinking that some of the government officials must have taken one look at Ankara and wondered whether the Great Man had completely lost his marbles.

There’s not much of old Ankara to see, really. Most of the “old buildings” are barely a century old – the Turkish Republic itself celebrated its 80th year last year. It’s hard to think of a country so steeped in history and tradition as being so young. And so, I still have a lot to learn.

The language barrier is going to take some time to get used to. I didn’t realize how much Greek I was speaking in Cyprus until I got here and suddenly I can’t communicate with anyone. It’s been such a long time since I’ve been somewhere where I can’t communicate at all – and a lot less people speak English here than in Cyprus. I’m hurriedly trying to learn some Turkish – partly because a lot of people today seemed to think I am Turkish and tried to talk to me and it went straight over my head. Ick. I just smile and say “Merhaba” a lot. Maybe people will pat me on the head. There’s a good foreigner…

At any rate. It’s well past midnight and I ought to shut the computer down and get some sleep. Tomorrow is another big day…

Flogging the Bishop

Saturday, July 10th, 2004

Trip to Paphos today. Started off with the quintessential travel story: so, we got this flat tire in Limassol. Well, that’s about it. We had a flat tire, fortunately we were right across the street from a garage, so we were on our way in 20 minutes. Went along to the ancient city of Kourion with its beautiful theater and wonderful mosaics. Man, those ancient Greeks knew something about real estate, let me tell you. After that we proceeded to Petra tou Romiou, the place where Aphrodite was supposedly born out of the waves (OK, so it’s one of several places where that supposedly happened. After a while you just start taking everything with a huge grain of salt.

In a bit of a funk today. Depressed about leaving Cyprus. It’s been a great experience, and I still have so much more that I want to do. Ray called at 7 this morning – not sure it cheered me up ‘cuz he sounded so down and now it seems we’re going to miss each other when I come back. Yick.

Paphos was spectacular – the ruins are well preserved, although after a while I could take no more of our tour guide’s interminable lectures and wandered around the site on my own. I saw a lot of it, and was rewarded by soaking nearly every square centimeter of my clothing with sweat. That was fun, although I felt strangely invigorated by the experience.

After lunch we had yet another Ultimate Religious Experience – seeing the Pillar of Saint Paul, where he was flogged after being convicted of prosletizing good Romans to Christianity. It’s not a particularly nice Pillar, and I found it more than a little reminiscent of a puja linga – the phallic representation of Brahma that adorns every Hindu temple. Our local Christian would be rather distressed to hear that, I’m sure.

Dinner tonight at a restaurant in Nicosia, followed by the long-dreaded chore of having to say goodbye to everyone who’s been so nice to us for so long. Cyprus has been a wonderful experience, and the thought of having to shift gears now is making me a little anxious.

I still want to wrap up my thoughts about Cyprus, but it’s late and I have to be up at an ungodly hour to catch my flight.

Conflict, Admission, Reconciliation

Friday, July 9th, 2004

Nicosia [GP:Nicosia]. Hot. Sunny. Sticky.

So, here we are once again in Nicosia where sweat is collecting in unusual places on my body at an unreasonably late hour of the night.

This morning we had a session on conflict resolution efforts in Cyprus. I won’t say that all of my questions were answered (they weren’t), but a lot of the points I’ve found myself raising over and over were at least addressed. For the first time, we had representatives of both the Greek and Turkish communities here making solid admissions on points I’ve noticed – yes, Cypriots tend to blame the mother countries (Greece and Turkey) for the problems that have plagued the island. Yes, the educational system on the island (both halves) is hideously skewed, and school children are taught only of the horrific acts committed by the other side and left completely in the dark about what their own side has done. I was reminded so many times over of Mehmet’s presentation that so followed the party line – the Turkish guerillas were freedom fighters while EOKA, the Greek counterpart, was a terrorist organization. Finally, admission comes that this sort of thing needs to stop. After all of this, after everything we’ve done here, this was the right note to end things on.

Things aren’t over here for us, not yet, but tomorrow will be spent going to the ruins in Paphos and the southeast – yet another component of the program that will no doubt run over on time and unnecessary narration, but I think that somehow this drew a nice closure. As always, I could see another way to do it – I could have very happily spent a full day with the team this morning and skipped, say, the pointless lectures by the math professor at the University of Cyprus.

This afternoon, Rob and I crossed the line and met up with Gülsen to hit a couple of bookshops in the north (naturally, this happened after I spent £14 to send 5 kg of books home). Found some interesting tracts on the Turkish perspectives, then went to a bookstore in the south and found some great counterparts on the Greek side of things. They’ll be great for the curriculum unit I want to do on conflict resolution.

Tooled around the old city with Laura and picked up a few cheesy souvenirs. I can’t believe we’re leaving in two days. I wonder if I’ll come back to Cyprus. I’ve really taken a liking to the place and the people here – even if no one will speak Greek with me. The more I stay, the more I feel like I’ve only just scratched the surface.

 

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