Amazon.com Widgets
I’m not mad.  Really.

About Ramblings of a Hopeless Khowaga

Welcome to my Web site. My name is Chris, and I’ll be your host. I\'m an opinionated, snarky, gay academic with a predilection for the history, the Arab world, languages, photography, food, and music. I live in Austin, Texas. You can read more about me, learn 100 random things about me, and if you’re wondering what the heck a khowaga is, click here. Feel free to browse, read, and leave comments!

Tag: ‘dinner’



12 of 12: September 2009

Sunday, September 13th, 2009

Howdy, 12ers!  How was your month?

Down here in Central Texas, we’ve been in a severe drought for the past two years.  We also had a record number of days this summer over 100 degrees F (~38 C).  So, today, when it turned out to be gray, rainy, and rather chilly (72 degrees ~ 21 C), no one complained much.

It’s raining!  It’s raining!

_MG_4382

This was not, however, the unanimous opinion of everyone in our household.

_MG_4391

Some dogs love to play in water.  Mocha does not.  She is terrified of standing water (we still tell stories about the time we took her down to Wimberley to play in the Blanco River.  We finally picked her up and deposited her in the foot-deep river and she proceeded to clamp on to Ray’s leg and wouldn’t let go.

This applies to rain, too.

_MG_4396

*wistful sigh*

Ray went off to take a test for his online Texas government class (did you know that all college students in Texas are required to take a course in Texas government?  I didn’t — I only did my master’s here.  Thank God it doesn’t apply to graduate students, because I’d have been pissed to waste my money on that … )

I watched Top Chef.

_MG_4417

It’s funny how, after Top Chef, I was hungry.  Fortunately, it was lunchtime.  Flatbread pizzas!

_MG_4418

Mid afternoon, the rain slows down.  I realize that I’m not sure Mocha has been outside to “take care of business” so to speak, so I went out in the yard to try to coax her out.

_MG_4425

Rain drops on the oleander.

_MG_4428

And here’s my dog, having made it five whole feet off the porch into the yard, ready to bolt at the sign of any threatening raindrops.

_MG_4447

Back inside, Mocha decides she’s bored.  Really, really bored.  If you own a dog, you know that this is not her problem, it’s ours.

And, yes, that is the hand-knotted silk Kayseri rug that I brought back from Turkey.  She loves it so.

_MG_4452

OK, the first thing we have to do is KILL THE PURPLE BEAR!!!

_MG_4475

And then we (that would be me and Ray) have to throw the purple bear.  Over and over and over.  Mocha’s not so good at bringing it back, but she’s pretty good at catching it.

My, that was exciting!  And when YOUR life gets exciting, it’s good to have the people at Mutual of Omaha Messina Hof Vineyards to turn to.

_MG_4477

And, so, as the day winds down toward dinner and a movie, I take a break to update the maps on my GPS and discover that Sarah McLachlan is on Austin City Limits.  (Sarah McLachlan was on campus three buildings over and I didn’t know about it??  I am totally straight for Sarah.)

_MG_4491

… and that’s my boring, rainy day at home.

And how was YOUR 12th?

Food Porn

Tuesday, September 8th, 2009

Changing tactics from my liberal ranting of the past 48 hours (I’ve lost two friends on Facebook … can’t figure out which ones, though.  It’s entirely possible that it’s the notoriously unreliable friend counter, but I prefer to think I’ve annoyed people), I’ve decided to go the food porn route.

I had a dinner party on Sunday.*  At the request of my guests, it was the long-promised Greek dinner party (that is, a dinner party where Greek food is served, not … well, whatever your mind came up with).

And so, let’s do some food porn!

Here was the menu:

Mezze course:

feta cheese
Greek and California olives
Greek pepperoncini
pita crisps
bissara (Egyptian fava bean dip)
hummus
grape leaves
tzatziki

Main course:

Pastitsio
Spanakopita

Dessert:

Baklava

As usual for me, I tend to wayyy over plan dinner parties, so I decided to cut out the soup course (it would have been lentil soup) because, well, there was too much food as it was.

So.  Food porn.

_MG_4282

Thursday night I rolled the grape leaves.  The recipe that I used is from this book: Little Foods of the Mediterranean: 500 Fabulous Recipes for Antipasti, Tapas, Hors d’Oeuvres, Meze, and More.  I didn’t take any photos, you see, because it was a repetitive boring task, and the best way to deal with those is to drink while doing it.  Which means that I was a little … um, my hands were wet, and I didn’t want to hold the camera with wet slimy hands.

That’s my story and I’m sticking to it.

Friday night, I soaked the fava beans and garbanzo beans for the various dips, and made the baklava.  (If you need to see how that worked, just check out my last 12 of 12).

Saturday morning it was time to make the bissara and hummus.

Bissara is an Egyptian fava bean dip.  Egyptians use fava beans — fuul in the local parlance — in the same way that the people of “Greater Syria” use the chick pea (also: garbanzo bean, in Arabic both the legume and the dip that’s made from it are called hummus).  You find hummus, and its eggplant-based cousin (known more popularly as baba gannouj, although in Greek it’s melitzanosalata) in Greek food.  Oddly, although fava beans are all over Greek food, bissara is not found on the Greek table.  It is, however, one of the few parts of Egyptian food that I like (I love Egypt, but Egyptian food is never … ever … going to be the next great thing on the world foodie scene).  The recipe came out of the above book.

I chose to make it anyway (food porn above).  It’s fava beans cooked onions, garlic, cilantro, dill, mint, parsley, pureed, and then cooked again with coriander, cumin, and cayenne.  It was a decent hit.

I also made the hummus on Saturday.  I’d never made it with dried beans before (instead of cans).  I kind of liked the way it turned out.  The recipe came from Anne-Marie Weiss Armush’s classic The Arabian Delights Cookbook: Mediterranean Cuisines from Mecca to Marrakesh.  It has attracted praise from actual Middle Eastern people, so I hold it in high esteem.

_MG_4286

Spanakopita.  Classic Greek mezze: spinach and various salty cheeses (feta, kefalotyri, and myzitra) in phyllo.  I made it Saturday evening.  This is my yia yia’s recipe, and it’s extremely variable — she wasn’t particularly the kind of cook who measured as she went.

And now, for the piece de resistance: Pastitsio.  It’s a sort of Greek lasagne.  Yia yia enjoyed the pastitsio, but she never made it, so I had to find another recipe to use (other than the one in the 1960s era cookbook I inherited, the one written before health care professionals started recommending against using lard and butter in copious amounts).

I used (and adapted) this recipe right here.  The taste is spot-on, however the white sauce that the recipe links to never actually set during the cooking process.  My guests didn’t notice, but I did.

Pastitsio (Greek Lasagne)

Here’s what you need:

_MG_4288

  • 1 1/2 pounds of tubular pasta (in this case, I used Pastitsio #2, acquired from the local Mediterranean market.  You can also use ziti or straight macaroni.  Do not use elbow macaroni.  I will come find you and beat you with a wooden spoon.)
  • 1 cup of olive oil
  • 2 cloves of garlic, finely minced
  • 1 1/4 cup of chopped onion
  • 1 pound lean ground beef
  • 1 pound ground lamb
  • 2 cans diced tomatoes, drained
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons of ground cinnamon
  • 6 whole cloves
  • salt
  • pepper
  • 1 1/2 cups of grated kefalotyri cheese
  • béchamel sauce with cheese or basic béchamel

_MG_4290

Sauté the onions until translucent in 2 tablespoons of olive oil in a large heavy-bottomed frying pan.

_MG_4295

Add meat.  Cook until lightly brown, stirring to break it up.

_MG_4304

Add the tomatoes, cinnamon, cloves, garlic, salt, and pepper and stir well to combine. Reduce heat and simmer until liquid has been absorbed, about 30-35 minutes. This is very important–the meat mixture should be as dry as possible without sticking to the bottom of the pan. Set meat mixture aside, uncovered, and allow to cool.

_MG_4306

Preheat oven to 350F. Lightly grease a baking or roasting pan approximately 11 X 14 X 3 inches high. The height of the pan is actually very important–the sauce has to go on thickly.  It turned out that I didn’t have a pan high enough and so … well, I had to throw half of the white sauce out (although it wasn’t a major loss).

Boil the pasta, drain, toss with olive oil to keep from sticking together.

Now, your Greek mother who has nothing else to do … or your gay Greek dude throwing a fabulous dinner party to impress his friends with his cooking ability (which, given his inability to dance, dress particularly well, fix up his single straight friends with his other single straight friends, and his complete intolerance for shopping excursions longer than 30 minutes in length is pretty much ALL HE HAS LEFT) … will line up half of the pasta in nice, neat rows, and sprinkle it with 1/2 cup of kefalotyri.

_MG_4308

Layer on the meat sauce.  Sprinkle with another 1/2 cup of the kefalotyri.  Line up the remaining pasta.

_MG_4309

Make the white sauce … just not the one attached to the about.com recipe.  Find a recipe for bechamel and make it.

Pour the bechamel on top — this is why you need the pan to be 3 inches tall.  You’ll wind up with 1/2 inch or so of sauce that will puff up as it cooks.

Bake for 30 minutes.  Then rotate the pan 180 degrees, sprinkle on the remaining 1/2 cup of cheese, and bake for 15-30 minutes more until the top is golden brown.

Pastitsio is served warm, not hot — you don’t want to serve it right out of the oven.

The final food porn: the set table:

_MG_4311

My Turkish mezze platter:

_MG_4314

Grape leaves and tzatziki.  I love garlic, but … well, I may have finally met my match on garlic.  10 cloves of garlic is a bit much for 17.5 ounces of Greek yogurt (also: 2 tablespoons of minced fresh dill and one cucumber, seeded, peeled, grated, and drained).

_MG_4315

And yes … there are leftovers.  And man … it was yummy :)

* OK, let’s get this out of the way: given my current record of promising and then delivering dinner parties, you need to have known me for at least eight years before you can expect to actually be invited to one.  So, no, you weren’t invited, and it’s not because I don’t like you.  It’s just because I haven’t known you for eight years yet.

12 of 12: July 2009 / ١٢ من ١٢: يوليو ٢٠٠٩

Sunday, July 12th, 2009

It’s time once again for 12 of 12!  This 12th of July, I’m in Cairo, capitol of the Arab Republic of Egypt.  I’ve been out of the US since June 29 — I was in Turkey for 10 days and flew down here on the 9th.  (For the record, and if you’re interested, there are photos from Turkey here).

I’ve been in Cairo many times — I studied here for a year in university — and it’s one of my favorite places in the world.  This is my first visit since 2006. I’m here on a combined business / vacation trip.  Although today is a business day (the work week in Egypt is Sunday through Thursday, since Friday is the communal day of prayer in Islam), I didn’t have any meetings scheduled, so it was kind of a fun day.

7:52 am: Skyping with Ray

_MG_3493

I’ve been waking up kind of early since I got here, and I caught Ray up late at home so we talked by Skype for a bit.  Mocha was in the picture for a bit, but she never quite looked at the camera.  Sorry, Mocha fans, there are no photos of her this month :(

10:00 am: Errands

_MG_3498

After pretending to go back to sleep for a bit, I finally wandered out around 10 o’clock to go pick up my laundry from the place down the street.  The laundry is in the same complex as the supermarket, so I stopped in to pick up some water and soda first, and then carried it all back to the hotel.  It was warm in Cairo today (102 F/41 C), and unusually humid.  This is, lamentably, still cooler than it is at home in Austin.  Tomorrow it’s going to be cooler – by Tuesday, it’ll be 91 (36).

1:56 pm: Christian Cairo

_MG_3508

I met up today with Tarek, our junior professor in modern Arabic literature, and we went down to the so-called Christian quarter.  It’s in the oldest part of the city, which actually predates the city of Cairo by 300 years.  A little-known fact: around 10 per cent of Egypt’s population is Christian, belonging to the native Coptic Church.  In an area of town called Mar Girgis, there are a number of churches and one of the few synagogues remaining in the country, all clumped together.

Tarek and I first hit the Coptic Museum (no photography allowed), and then wandered through the rest of the complex.  Although it’s a tourist draw, most of the people there were Egyptian, which was OK by us.

2:11 pm: St George’s Cemetery

_MG_3521

That’s Tarek taking a photo of the mausoleums in the Greek Orthodox cemetery behind St. George’s Church.  There are a bunch of mausoleums and family plots back there.  I was a bit surprised to find the tomb of someone with the same name as my grandfather — how many Neoklis Triantafillides’s could there have been in the Greek speaking world?

2:16 pm: Water from the Holy Well

_MG_3534

Although it’s not spelled out in the Gospels, the Egyptians have an entire itinerary set out for exactly where the Holy Family (Mary, Joseph, and the infant Jesus) traveled during their flight into Egypt.  In the cemetery is a crypt built over a cave where the Holy Family is said to have sheltered and drawn water from the well above.  As Mary (as Meryem) and Jesus (as ‘Issa) are both revered as prophets in Islam as well as Christianity, you can see adherents of both faiths making pilgrimages at these shrines.

2:51 pm: … you crazy, adorable fool

_MG_3556

The oldest known synagogue in Egypt still in existence, the Ben Ezra Synagogue, is in Mar Girgis as well, although, once again, no photography allowed.  Tarek and I got the royal tour, and were shown to the ‘Ayn Musa, the spring of Moses, located behind the synagogue.  This is said to be the spring where Pharaoh’s daughter drew the baby Moses from the Nile (the synagogue is said to be on the place where Moses pleaded with God to stop the plagues inflicted on Egypt).

3:12 pm: Off to Lunch

_MG_3559

OK, by this point in the day it was really hot in the sun and time for lunch.  Tarek and I had made plans to meet up with some students who are here for the summer, so we set back off for the area where I’m staying and several of the students live.

I am routinely asked by people if I feel unsafe traveling to Egypt as often as I do.  The answer is no – I have been coming to Egypt for 15 years, and I’ve never hidden the fact that I’m American, nor that I’m Christian (I don’t mention the part about being gay, however — that’s one barrier I’m not willing to cross here).  I’ve never been greeted with anything but kindness by people here.

The one place I do feel unsafe is on the road, however.  Egyptian taxis are built like tanks, but it doesn’t stop me from flinching often when riding in them.  Cairo is horrifically congested (by most unofficial estimates there are 20 million people in the Cairo/Giza/Shubra el Khayma metropolitan area) and it can take ages to get anywhere.  The Metro, wisely, is more for local use than tourists (it’s also not air conditioned), so we decided to cab it.

3:44 pm: Decisions, Decisions

_MG_3571

We met up for lunch at Abu Sid, a local upscale Egyptian restaurant.  You can get just about everything they serve on the street, but without the nasty side effects afterwards :)

5:38 pm: Towel Art

_MG_3582

Back on my own, I headed back to the hotel — a small, unassuming place run by a lady who governs with an iron fist.  I had forgotten that I’d hung my socks on the towel rack to dry after handwashing them in the sink this morning.  Hence, the guy who cleans the rooms at the hotel got a little creative with towel placement and left me a duck!

8:05 pm: Sunset

_MG_3589

In my food coma haze, I checked e-mail quickly and read while half watching episodes of the less successful Law and Order franchises (Trial by Jury; Trial by Fire; and Parks and Recreational Petty Crimes Division).  I lose track of the time until I hear the call to prayer wafting in through the window, meaning that it’s sunset.

8:45 pm: Evening Traffic in Zamalek

_MG_3604

I wander out, mostly from sheer boredom, and it’s traffic as usual in Zamalek on a weeknight.  Cars and pedestrians going every which way.

10:06 pm: Dessert before dinner

_MG_3609

One of the students calls to see what I’m up to and invite me to tag along to dinner (they eat late here).  I’m not that hungry, but first we stop in at a local bakery/sweet shop that I’ve frequented since my student days.  They churn out really nice baked goods–baklava, basboussa, kinaffeh–and ice cream as well.

For the record, we didn’t actually eat this stuff until after dinner (the shop was on the way to where we were going).  That would have been totally crazy … *innocent look*

And that was my 12.  How was yours?

Still here … wherever "here" is

Wednesday, July 8th, 2009

Yes, yes.  You’ve noticed I’ve been the great not-there.  Haven’t followed up my last post with any more stories about my jam-packed visit to Turkey.

Well, as it happens, the program ended this evening.  We had our farewell dinner – some of the group is hanging about Istanbul for a few days; I, myself, am heading to Cairo.  I look forward to catching up with old friends, but mostly, I look forward to not having a group in tow.  And also having clean clothes.  At this point I’m actually debating whether to stop at the laundry before I get to the hotel.

_MG_2927

Here I am making my Turkish television debut as co-host of Turkey Today (Bugun Turkiye).  I look all official and stuff.

_MG_2918

And here we all are on the set of Yesil Elma (“Green Apple”), Turkey’s number 1 cooking show.

Anyway.  It’s been an interesting road.  I still haven’t had much time to put thoughts together, or even to try to put proper captions on the photos that I’ve uploaded to Flickr.  I’m really looking forward to just having some time to sit back and relax in Egypt.  Most people don’t associate Cairo with relaxation, but I’m willing to give it a shot…

Notes from 25,000 feet

Thursday, July 2nd, 2009

Currently on a Turkish Airlines Airbus A320 en route from Istanbul to Izmir, the third largest city in Turkey and a major port along the Aegean coast.

We arrived yesterday afternoon after what was, all things considered, not a bad flight over from Chicago.  I’m traveling with a group I put together — Chris from work is along for the ride, along with ten teachers, eight from the Austin area, one from Dallas and one from Houston.  Most of us met at the airport in Austin and flew together up to Chicago.

I’ve defended O’Hare on a few occasions, stating outright that I’ve never had any real problems connecting through, and this continued to be the case.  This should not be confused with the concept that connecting to international flights at O’Hare is actually easy.  The international terminal — Terminal 5 — can only be reached on the airport train, which requires exiting the secure area and going through security once again when you get there.

And frankly, for an international terminal, they ought to be ashamed of themselves.  The only source of food is before security, so for those looking at their watches and the long line at the three security lines, it’s a choice between food and wondering if you’ll make your flight on time.  It took nearly 45 minutes for us to get through, and to say the TSA folks were rude would be an understatement.  I accidentally forgot to empty the water bottle that I carry with me (it’s refillable – I carry it through security empty and then fill it at a water fountain so that I don’t have to pay airport prices for a 12 oz bottle of water to carry on the plane).  The guy working security waved it at me.

“Oh, it’s water,” I said.  “I’m sorry, just go ahead and dump it out.”
A burly officer with a shaved head who struck me as ex-military came up, snatched it from the other guy, and practically yelled at me, “No, I’m going to take you back through and you can dump it.”  He meant it, too.  He was willing to let me wait for someone else in the group to come through so that I could leave my stuff with them, but got impatient.

“Where are they?” he snapped.
“They’re still waiting to come through.”
“Well, I’ll just take it out there and give it to one of them to dump,” he said, and stalked off.

Welcome to America, ladies and gents.  Don’t let the door hit you in the ass on the way out.

Once we got to the gate and checked in with Turkish Airlines, we got another nasty surprise: we were all in middle seats.  And the plane was full.  I boarded in a bit of dread, but I have to say that if you’re going to get stuck in the middle seat on an 11 hour flight, there are worse places to do it than on a Turkish Airlines A340.  They’ve got a little more leg room than most other carriers I’ve flown on (on the plane where I’m sitting at this moment, I could get out to the aisle without bothering either of my aisle mates), and that fun AVOD system where you can while the flight away watching really bad movies on demand (After sleeping most of the way across the Atlantic, I finally chose Confessions of a Shopaholic over Bride Wars).  Although flights that long can never be described as “short,” I didn’t spend the last four hours wanting to get off the plane by any means necessary, like I have on some other airlines *coughDeltacough*.

We were met at the airport in Istanbul by some folks from Austin from the organization that’s hosting us — I’d been a bit nervous because I didn’t have any information about that, and so when we walked into the arrivals hall there was a moment of truth, so to speak.  Ironically, it turned out that they were getting worried about us, because it took over an hour from the time the plane landed for us to get through the long line for visas, then passport control, and then for the luggage to arrive.  “We were starting to wonder if something had happened … ”

We were taken to our hotel in Istanbul, which may be in the old city in the sense that it’s within the old city walls, but there’s nothing particularly old about the neighborhood where the hotel is located.  It is, however, on a quiet side street, which I appreciate.  We went out for a quick dinner, which lasted exactly as long as I could deal with, then back to the hotel for bed.

We had an early wakeup call, but I woke up early (4:15).  I guess jetlag will be with me for a few days, but right now … granted, it’s still 7:45 am … I’m feeling OK.  We have a long day in Izmir, visiting Ephesus and Selcuk, and then we’re flying on down the coast to Antalya tonight.  At that point, I’ll be ready for a good night’s sleep.

And now, I’m getting the usual warning about putting electronics away as we’re on our descent into Izmir.  More later …

 

Blog Theme by LJP & SLR Lounge