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About Ramblings of a Hopeless Khowaga

Welcome to my Web site. My name is Chris, and I’ll be your host. I live in Austin, Texas, with my partner, Ray, and our child dog, Mocha. You can read more about me, learn 100 random things about me, and if you’re wondering what the heck a khowaga is, click here. Feel free to browse, read, and leave comments!

Tag: ‘egypt’



Why Zahi Hawass is a Bigger Creep than Greg Mortenson

Saturday, April 23rd, 2011

Two scandals broke in the world over the past week.

GM Afghan students Wakhan 2006.jpg

The first, and bigger of the two, is the scandal involving Greg Mortenson, the author of the much-ballyhooed Three Cups of Tea, a book that, I confess, I’ve never actually read.  I’ve had something of a love/hate relationship with the book – it’s set in northern Pakistan, so people assume that I must be intimately familiar with the topic of the book because it’s “set in the Middle East.” The problem is, due to the fact that my university has a department that specializes in South Asia, Pakistan lies across the border in the very-well-demarcated border between us. Pakistan is, quite simply, in their part of the world, not mine.

While you may have missed the scandal, you pretty much would have to have been under a rock to have ignored the Three Cups of Tea phenomenon. It’s a book for adults, there’s a young adult version, and a children’s book (which I did buy for my lending library at work). And the message is all about hope and empowerment through education and all that stuff that us do-gooder liburls eat up like candy.

There’s also been something disturbingly neocolonialist about the story that’s never sat well with me and has, on some level, prevented me from picking the book up and reading it myself. White guy stumbles into a village in the mountains of northern Pakistan and discovers that (gasp!) they’re poor and that (gasp!) the girls don’t go to school and that (gasp!) … something about human rights and dignity. The point here isn’t about whether the girls need the education or not (they do), it’s that it took the arrival of Whitey McWhiterson for something to be done about it (or so the story goes) and suddenly Whitey is the world famous celebrity.  Not … y’know, the girls or the schools.  A charity is set up, sixty bajillion dollars are collected, and Whitey reports back that Pakistan’s girls are well educated.

There are a few problems with this story, not least of which is that it isn’t true. The scandal revolves around the fact that not all of the money made it to Pakistan, the charity built fewer schools than it claimed to have done, and parts of Whitey’s story appear to have been fabricated. The last part doesn’t even raise an eyebrow with me.

As an aside, one of the things that irks me about Mortenson’s celebrity is that there are other charities that have been doing this for years – the Aga Khan Development Network has been in the region for two decades building schools for girls. Interestingly, one of the things they ran into was the unexpected phenomenon that the girls were getting a much better education than the boys in the mountain villages and, come marriage time, refused to marry young men they felt were their intellectual inferiors. So now, the AKDN is building boys schools, too. Has Mortenson’s charity found this to be the case? Well, who can say…

Needless to say, Mortenson’s in a heap of trouble and donors are severing links, bladda bladda bladda.  However, as much as Mortenson may be a creep, the work is still getting done, and lives of young girls are being affected in a positive manner.  I’ve read a couple of rather reasonable defenses, both of which have as their main point: don’t throw the baby out with the bathwater.

On to Zahi Hawass.

Hawass

My three or four regular readers are probably thinking, “Jeez, Chris, another picture of a smoldering model? And what does this have to do with Zahi Hawass?”

Zahi Hawass, the egomaniacal Pharaoh for Life of the Egyptian Antiquities Organization has launched his own clothing line. Hawass, who must, by law, appear in any documentary about ancient Egypt (or if it’s not a law, it sure seems that way), decided that people should copy his trademark look, which is based on that of Indiana Jones.

And so, as one does when one has a clothing line, he hired some (not even remotely Egyptian looking) models and posed them in an appropriate venue. In this case, the National Museum of Antiquities (commonly referred to as “The Egyptian Museum”) in downtown Cairo.

In other words, that ain’t a fake mummy case that there model is leaning up against.

Zenobia broke the news last week about the photo shoot, and the photographer (also not Egyptian) responded saying, “Hey, don’t shoot me.”  As a photographer, I feel for the guy – I can’t say that if Zahi Hawass offered me the chance to take photos in the museum I’d turn it down either.

But that’s the problem. Mere mortals can’t. And the reason why has to do with the good Dr. Hawass himself.

Now, museum goers will note that photographers are frequently forbidden from taking photos in museums. Certain pieces of art are trademarked. Flash photography can damage art work, and these are all good points. The impetus in Egypt may have had something to do with that – I do recall back in the mid 90s that photo without flash was OK, but in the museum (as in the tombs of the Valley of the Kings), slipping the guard a bribe to look the other way often circumvented such regulations.

It’s also equally possible that the photo ban had to do with Hawass’s part ownership of the gift shop concession.

However, the bigger problem is that Hawass has grown over the years to treat Egypt’s antiques as if they were his own personal property.

Hawass was at his best when he was doing his functional job as director of the EAO: as the visible worldwide spokesman for Egypt’s antiquities, he was a darn good cheerleader. However, he was often given to controversial statements that were clearly politically motivated – he has denied categorically that there were ever Hebrews in ancient Egypt and denied the historicity of the Exodus, both statements that are a wild leap over the lack of available archaeological evidence. Indeed the statement appears to be more aimed at denying any legitimacy to Israel’s occupation of Sinai between 1967 and 1983.  Needless to say, when you’re a money raiser, this isn’t the wisest course of action.

Hawass’s own scientific prowess has been questioned, and the veracity of many of his claims – not just the one about the  Hebrews—has been scrutinized over the years. More emphatically are claims of favoritism in allowing teams to dig at certain sites, and his tendency to take credit for discoveries that someone else made. In addition to the whole concessions thing. The looting of sites during the Egyptian Revolution seemed to be the last straw: the Supreme Military Council removed him as Director (a cabinet level position), then reinstated him, and then he was removed again pending a court case that he lost which earned him a year’s probation.

So, why do I claim that Hawass is a bigger creep than Mortenson? Because, quite frankly, for all of his gaffes, Mortenson has actually done some good work. As has Hawass, but Mortenson doesn’t claim to be the president of northern Pakistan. Hawass, on the other hand, clearly views all of Egypt’s antiquities as his personal playthings to do with as he sees fit. He’s crossed the line between being a caretaker and dictator. I’m not pardoning Mortenson’s conduct, but for me … Zahi Hawass is an institution whose time has come. There are plenty of other people in the world of Egyptology who could do a much better job: Kent Weeks and Salma Ikram, of the American University in Cairo are two. Wifaa Sadik, the director general of the Egyptian Museum is another.

Put another way: it would be a shame for girl’s education in northern Pakistan to stop being a cause celebre due to Mortenson’s mistakes, because, as such causes go, it’s a good one. Egyptology, on the other hand, isn’t going to suffer a bit when Hawass goes. In fact, it’ll probably improve.

And that’s why Zahi Hawass is a bigger creep than Gren Mortenson.

Springtime in the Arab World

Saturday, February 26th, 2011

I was on the road again last week (hey, that would be a great title for a song!) and missed most of the Libyan uprising. At one point, I caught a headline that announced “Ghaddafi opens fire on protestors,” and in a moment of confusion I thought that Ghaddafi had actually grabbed a gun personally and opened fire. Because, well, he is actually that crazy. (Who the hell names their kid “Sword of Islam” without trying to be ironic? I mean, even the Prophet Muhammad gave his kids normal names, and if anyone had the right to name his kids “Sword of Islam” it would have been him, right?)

So, Tunisia down … kinda …and Egypt down … kinda … and there’s rioting in Bahrain, Yemen’s on the edge, and Libya is … well, Libya has fractured into the parts that have managed to rid themselves of the man who is a cross between Mobutu Sese Seko and Kim Jong Il, and the parts that haven’t. The problem for the Libyans, of course, is that Ghaddafi is insane — and I mean that literally. I was told rather emphatically once that Arabs do not use the term “majnoon” in the way that Americans do — when people invoke the term “crazy,” they don’t mean “”She’s flying to London for a three day weekend? She’s crazy!” They mean, “Call the guys in the white jackets to come haul this guy out because he’s getting financial advice from trees.” (Granted, given the way the world financial system imploded, it’s probably as good a place as any for reasonable advice, but that’s not the point.)

I’m still not that clear on the situation in Libya, and, as with Egypt and Tunisia, I tend to tune in to Twitter and Facebook before I hit the news sites (and I still start with al-Jazeera English, that scion of news formerly derided as anti-American by people who’d never watched it that is now apparently experiencing a 2000% increase in viewership because everyone wants to see. Irony rocks.) The other day multiple FB pals posted a video of troops uncovering mass graves in the parts of the country that are now under control of the new provisional government. I had that moment of liberal guilt every time I loaded up the page and scrolled quickly past them. (“Am I allowed to skip this revolution and focus on the next one?”)

I’m still trying to figure out what’s going on in Egypt, too. I’ve reflected a couple of times that the country is at the point where, in Act III, we discover that Lando has been working for Darth Vader all along — the constitution is suspended, parliament dissolved, and the country is under military rule. “It’s a trap!”

I expressed this to a friend of mine whose skills in smartassery are equivalent to my own, who pondered this for a moment and then asked me who Han Solo was in this analogy.
“I … don’t know,” I said.
“I just like my Star Wars analogies well thought out,” he said.

The other thing — and I’m sorry folks, but can we have a moment where we don’t, for once, worry about how all this is going to effect Israel? Israel can still kick the ass of any country in the region that it wants. Israel will be fine. For god’s sake, stop worrying about Israel.

I had cause to reflect on this after a conversation with someone who was not convinced that the Muslim Brotherhood isn’t about to take over Egypt (never mind that the Jordanian branch is legal, active in politics and has, at several points, been the controlling party in that country’s politics–and one could argue that even at the worst of times that Jordanian-Israeli relations have been far better than Egyptian-Israeli relations), and then lamented, “You know, we give these people democracy and then they go and do stuff like elect Hamas.”

Ah, right. The old, “Democracy is too important to be wasted on the Chileans” argument (quote from Henry Kissinger in 1972).

For many in the West (including, I fear, myself), the hardest aspect of this Arab Awakening will be the possibility that some of these new governments might not be as willing to toe the line as some of their predecessors. It’s not the first time this has happened (anyone remember Viet Nam)? On the other hand, while terrorism exists in democratic countries (the IRA, ETA, and November 17 are all examples, not to mention the one-offs like Tim McVeigh, the Unabomber, and the jerks who shot Yitzhak Rabin and Gabbi Giffords), one can’t help think that the re-discovery of civil society might weaken support for militant extremists.

Am I being pollyanish? Maybe. It took the better part of a decade for Eastern Europe to recover from the death throes of Communism…but, despite fears of a Russian implosion and transition to kleptocracy, they did. So, let us take a moment to celebrate the Arab Awakening without focusing on all the fiddly bits that lie ahead. Because they will be fiddly and they will be difficult, and they may not go the way *we* would like. But as long as they reflect the wishes of the people … well, isn’t that what this is all about?

Thoughts on a Revolution

Thursday, February 17th, 2011

It’s a little weird being back behind the scenes at this old blog. Truth be told, I wasn’t sure that I still had it in me — I didn’t have much to say there for a while, and decided I wouldn’t force it. Then on Saturday, I had that crazy idea to run an essay contest about the Egyptian Revolution that has attracted exactly two entries thus far, and suddenly it was back.

Of course, once again, I’m behind the times. It’s hard for me to repeat anything that the pundits haven’t said. Issandr El Amrani, who does this sort of thing for a living, has pretty much said it all over on his blog, The Arabist. For an even more kick-ass-and-take-names perspective from the Arab world’s most erudite r!ot grrrl, follow Mona El Tahawy on Twitter.

I spent a lot of time glued to the television between January 25 and February 11. A lot of time. I was so wrapped up in the protests on January 28 that by the time President Hosni Mubarak gave his speech, it depressed me so badly that I had to take the dog for a long walk around the neighborhood.

The last twenty four hours that Hosni Mubarak spent in office were an emotional roller coaster — and let’s not make this all about me. I admire the Egyptian protesters who went home to sleep on it after Mubarak’s devastating February 10 speech in which he basically told the entire country to fuck off and die. Had I been in Tahrir Square, I would have gone out and started breaking shit. I came in the next morning determined to stop following the news so closely and get on with my day, only to be interrupted–happily!–when Omar Suleiman announced the departure of the president.

By the way, if you’re not aware … the guy who was standing behind Suleiman when he read his announcement has his own fan page on Facebook, literally in the name of “The Man Behind Omar Suleiman.” You could tell his job was to make sure that the Egyptian VP read the announcement exactly as written or he was going to take him out.

Ironically enough, it was my Dad who put words to the emotions: “Well, you’ve invested so much of your life in that country,” he said. It’s true. I have. And I won’t lie: part of the emotions I was feeling came from knowing that I was supposed to be there in mid March (a trip that’s now cancelled by a nervous University’s risk assessment office) and wanting to be there to see what Free Egypt looks like for myself. A friend put this in perspective when he pointed out to me that the kind of trip I want to make to Egypt right now isn’t the kind I was scheduled to make — the kind that wouldn’t involve, for example, escorting 25 participants to tourist sites I’ve been to dozens of times. And he’s right, but I won’t give him the satisfaction of telling him that directly, so stop reading this part, Will, OK?

So, enough philosophizing. Despite the fact that the revolution in Egypt has been now overshadowed by uprisings in Bahrain and other countries–is this the Arab World’s 1989? Can we hope?–I’m still watching the dust settle. I’ve done a few presentations including Q&As on the situation in Egypt, many of which have addressed the somewhat bewildering development that people in Egypt were happy when the army committed a coup d’etat (which is what happened — Mubarak was allowed to maintain the smallest shred of dignity he had left by being allowed to pretend that it was his choice to step aside and hand power to the army, but it’s pretty clear that he was pushed out of power when he failed to do so voluntarily in his speech on the 10th).

But how does this make me feel?

In the 16 years I’ve been going back and forth to Egypt, politics has played an unexpectedly minimal role. People just didn’t care about politics — it could be read as apathy, but after a while I came to read it as defeat. I was there for the parliamentary “elections” of 1995, rife with accusations of ballot box stuffing, voter intimidation and fraud. Barely 15% of eligible voters bothered to turn out, and it came as a surprise to no one when the now-hated National Democratic Party (NDP) won a majority of seats. The conclusion had been decided well in advance of the election, and there was no point in playing the game unless you had something to gain.

And this played out in major areas of society. Cairo, while practically a second home for me, is a horribly dirty city, and the reasons are pretty clear: no one cleans it. The municipality certainly doesn’t. It’s up to the local citizens, who do take care of their little plots of land every morning — sweeping doorsteps, washing doors, etc. Enter anyone’s home and it’s spotless — I’ve been in houses in slums that were immaculate. But public space–areas that in other countries are maintained by some sort of municipal authority–are neglected. Unless, of course, you live in one of the districts with the wealthy and powerful.

Will any of this change with the departure of Mubarak and the collapse of the NDP’s ruling mechanism? Maybe, maybe not. There’s still a lot to do to fix a country of 80 million with a standard of living that’s dramatically decreased over the past half century. But I can’t help thinking that if this all plays out correctly and the Egyptians feel that their government isn’t actively out to get them … that it’ll be a huge start.

And it’s already starting.

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Happy New Year!

Saturday, January 2nd, 2010

Yes, I’m a day late and a dollar short, but *meh.

I’m not sure whether it’s that we’re getting older, that our usual party hosts are, like everyone else in the free world, feeling the pinch of a hard economy, or that we were just feeling less celebratory than usual, but the New Year’s gathering – which was nice, don’t get me wrong – came to an early end.  And I’ll be honest—I didn’t mind so much.

I was annoyed, however, that we weren’t able to watch the ball drop in Times Square live.  Apparently, the networks have finally caught on to the fact that we’re not all on the east coast and started tape-delaying the NYE celebrations, which meant that at midnight in New York, which is 11 pm here, we were almost unable to do our usual “one hour left” countdown—until, that is, that I discovered we could watch the proceedings en directo por Univision.

Anyway.  New Year’s Day was a slow affair: I took down the Christmas decorations, discovering in the process that I’d left most of the good ones off the tree this year (Ray acquired a new, ornament specific container, which I may have slightly mocked but did turn out to be cursed useful).  I made chili, not because it’s a tradition (the traditional Tex Mex foods for New Year’s are either menudo or pozole), but because it’s cursed cold down here and it seemed appropriate.  Elliot went home with his mother, and, as predicted, Mocha started moping even though she spent the entire time we were dogsitting pretending she was annoyed by his presence.

And I posted my first picture to my 365 project.

What does 2010 bring to the table?  Well, here’s what I’ve got penciled in so far:

  • I’m going to Egypt in March with yet another group in tow—my parents are coming this time.
  • I’m taking fourth year Arabic again in the spring semester, in large part because I will need a recommendation letter come fall when…
  • … I apply to the doctoral program in History.  Which also necessitates…
  • … taking the bloody bollocky GRE exam at some point in late spring or summer because apparently my 12 year old scores from 1998 have “expired.”
  • I have business trips lined up to San Angelo, Kilgore, Mount Pleasant, Edinburg, and Laredo, Texas.  You know you’re jealous.
  • I also have business trips on the horizon to either Savannah or Denver (probably Denver) and San Diego.
  • There is the potential—in my own mind, if not reality—for a visit to Brazil in summer.
  • And the potential for a trip to New York City in late spring.
  • And, of course, my 365 photo project.

So much to do!  But first … I’m going to have another cup of coffee.

Happy New Year, everyone!

Confessions of an Arabic Learner

Friday, December 11th, 2009

The other day whilst trying to set up an appointment to discuss a project with our associate chair, she mentioned casually that she couldn’t meet one afternoon because she was supposed to be on Wisconsin Public Radio.

“Really?  Why?”
“I’m … not actually sure,” she said.  “They want to talk about learning Arabic?”

Well, the interview is now online, and it’s quite the doozy.  For those not inclined to listen to the whole 54 minutes, the first five will do it — it’s long enough to establish the following:

  1. The woman doing the interview is a complete idiot.
  2. The woman doing the interview did absolutely no research on how to pronounce the name of the book that she’s supposedly basing the entire interview around (“Al-Kitaab fi ta’alum al-’arabiyya” — she shortens it to “Al-Kitaab,” which means “the book” and would be pronounced as a mashup of the two common English words “kit” and “tab” as they are pronounced by Americans.  Not only can she not do this, she actually changes the way she pronounces it over the course of the hour several times).
  3. The woman doing the interview clearly did not ask one of her interviewees, Mahmoud al-Batal, how to pronounce his name, as she consistently pronounces it wrong (and, again, her pronunciation changes over the course of the hour) — which, I’m sorry, is a horribly egregious error.  I’ve had people make sure they’re pronouncing MY name correctly before, and my name is pretty damned easy.
  4. The goal of the interview is to make learning Arabic sound as difficult as humanly possible.  Whether this was the stated goal or not, I don’t know, but I was alternately amused and astonished by her inability to move beyond the fact that Arabic is read and written from right-to-left (and also to find out exactly why this is — including, if possible, assigning personal blame for it).

My favorite part of the hour is that you can practically hear the two interviewees looking at each other and trying to nonverbally work out how to respond without calling the interviewer a complete moron.

Anyway, for those who are so inclined, here are some reflections about learning Arabic that I’d like to share.  This is based not only on my knee jerk reaction to this interview, but from the 16 years of experience I’ve had being a white guy learning and speaking Arabic and responding to  questions from those who do not.

Things that are not actually difficult about learning Arabic as a foreign language.

1. The alphabet (more correctly in this case, it’s an abjad).  Arabic has an actual alphabet.  Each letter stands for a specific consonant sound.  It’s not written in characters.  Once you learn the alphabet–which took about three weeks when I started, but that’s because Arabic 101 only met twice a week–it’s a non-issue, and you don’t have to revisit it ever again unless you decide to take up a language that uses the same alphabet but has more letters (Persian, Urdu, and Malaysian, for example), in which case you’ll have to learn the new letters.  It’s really not that hard.

2. Arabic is always written in cursive — even when it’s printed or typed.  It was bewildering the first time that my Arabic instructor, having taught us the letters a, l, k, t, and b (ا ل ك ت ب) put them all together to form “alktab” (al-kitaab, الكتاب), “the book”.  You stare at it for about 10 seconds, and then it clicks.  By the end of the first class of 101, this is not an issue anymore.  I’ve done this with 6th graders.  They can get it.  It’s really not that hard.

Explaining this to Hollywood, on the other hand, is another story.  I’ve lost count of the number of times that I’ve seen Arabic text in the background that doesn’t connect — which, frankly, renders the text unreadable.  Most recently, some characters on the show “FlashForward” traveled to Hong Kong looking for Shohreh Aghdashloo (who must be desperate for work), and stopped by an Iranian restaurant she was known to frequent.  The restaurant’s sign was in English and Persian (written with the Arabic alphabet) … and the Persian letters didn’t connect.

I also once saw improperly formed Arabic tatooed on a guy in a Sean Cody video.  Poor guy.

3. Sounds that aren’t in English. Once you learn how to say them properly, you get over it.  However, contrary to popular belief, there are actually four H sounds in Arabic, and only one of them sounds like forming a spit ball.  The alphabet is fully phonetic — every letter has one sound.  And it’s always the same sound.  Unlike English.  Contemplate, if you will, the utter uselessness of the letters c and x sometime — both simply replicate sounds produced by other letters — x has no unique functions (it can be represented as “eks”), and c’s only unique function is in the syllable “ch” as in “choose”.  K and q aren’t as differentiated as they ought to be — as in, for example, the Arabic ك  and ق

4. Reading and writing from right to left. Although our interviewer gets hung up on this, it’s probably the biggest non-issue of them all.  It just is.

5. The lack of a “be” verb. There is no verb “to be” in Arabic (it’s a Semitic language quirk — there isn’t one in Hebrew, either).  “be” is implied.  To say you’re a student, you say, انا طالب, which is literally “I student.”  The “am” is implied.

Things that are more difficult about learning Arabic as a foreign language.

1. The non-writing of vowels. Like every other Semitic language out there (except, apparently, Amharic, which at some point gave in), along with a number of other languages that use abjads, vowels — specifically short vowels — are not written.  Normally this isn’t such a problem, however, to continue with our example, let’s look at ktb — كتب.  It could be “kutub” (books), it could be “kataba” (he wrote), or it could be “kutiba” (it was written).  You have to figure it out from context, which is a bit of an advanced skill.

2. The lack of cognates with English. The running joke when learning Spanish is that you can add “o” to the end of an English word and make it a Spanish word.  It’s usually not true, but it’s based on the number of cognates between the two languages — words that are similar enough in form and meaning that speakers of one can understand the other.  In Arabic, however, you can’t add “al-” to the front of an English word and make it correct — it’s kind of a crutch that the non-fluent but advanced speakers can use when speaking to a bilingual crowd so as not to break stride — I’ve thrown English words in when I don’t know the Arabic ones — but it doesn’t work in casual conversation.  The only cognates you’re likely to find are ones that were English to begin with: al-internet.  al-kumbyootir.  ad-dimuqraasiya. at-tiknuluujiya.

3. The lack of a “be” verb.  Where the lack of the be verb gets tricky is in the way the language has compensated for it — while there is not a verb for “to be,” there IS what my first Arabic instructor went to very great pains to make sure that we all understood was definitely NOT a verb for “to not be.”  Similarly, there is a not-verb for “to have been.”  Never mind that both look, smell, sound, and function like verbs in every other way, except, of course, for the fact that they’re not verbs.  Dammit.

4. There are no irregular verbs in Arabic. There are 500 regular verbal patterns, 495 of which only apply to one verb each.

5. Broken plurals. Similarly, there are lots of patterns for pluralizing words … and many of them are really irregular.  Grad students like to sit around and make up broken plurals for English to amuse themselves, which is how we decided a few years ago that the plural of “Bi-otch” is “Bowatchaa’”

6. Diglossia.  This is probably the biggest challenge for the learner of Arabic as a foreign language.  “Arabic” — the language that is taught in a classroom, is often Modern Standard Arabic, a constructed high language based on the language of the Qur’an (but not necessarily mutually intelligible with it).  It is grammatically rigid, nuanced, and eloquent.  It is not, however, what people speak in their daily lives.  Countries, regions, cities all have their own dialects that are based on MSA, but have been influenced over the centuries by other factors.

The Egyptian dialect–the one I’m the most familiar with–contains both words of Turkish origin (from the four centuries of Ottoman rule) as well as words of Coptic origin (Coptic is the language of the Egyptian Christian church, and is descended from the ancient Egyptian language).  In fact, I have a book on my shelf that outlines the number of words in Egyptian Arabic that can be traced back to the days of the pharaohs.  The Moroccan dialect, by contrast, contains a lot of words that haven’t been used since the medieval period in other parts of the Arab world, as well as a lot of Berber and French.

When I first arrived in Egypt as an undergrad, I had two years of Modern Standard under my belt and found myself unable to communicate with another living soul.  Those who could speak Modern Standard usually tired of hearing me struggle and would switch to English, which they usually spoke better than I could speak Arabic.

New textbooks now introduce dialect early on — as well they should.  I couldn’t even agree with people — I’d been taught to use the formal na’am, while most people in the eastern Mediterranean actually say aywa.

A few thoughts to throw out there — Arabic is definitely a challenging language, but the things that most people get hung up on aren’t even an issue.  Get over the squiggly letters and the right-to-left, oh interviewers of the world!

And, for God’s sake, quite trying to figure out whose fault it is … yeesh.

 

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