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About Ramblings of a Hopeless Khowaga

Welcome to my Web site. My name is Chris, and I’ll be your host. I live in Austin, Texas, with my partner, Ray, and our child dog, Mocha. You can read more about me, learn 100 random things about me, and if you’re wondering what the heck a khowaga is, click here. Feel free to browse, read, and leave comments!

Tag: ‘fulbright’



Day Six: Sleepless in Rabat

Tuesday, June 14th, 2011

I am sitting in the courtyard of a converted villa in the swank Souissi district of Rabat, the capital of Morocco, where it is a perfectly pleasant 78 degrees. The courtyard villa is now a language center, and the group is currently taking an introductory language course wherein they are learning the Arabic alphabet. Good for them.

We arrived Sunday … Good grief, was that really just two days ago? … Into Casablanca. The airport was a little dumpier than I remembered it from my last visit three years ago. The customs agent was thrilled that I spoke Arabic and gave me my first language test of the trip:

“Where did you learn Arabic?”
“Egypt,” says I.
“Do you love Egypt?” he asked.
“I do,” says I, “bhebbha kteeran
“Morocco,” he informed me, “is better than Egypt.”

We shall see.

Yesterday was our first full day in Rabat. For the first two weeks that we’re in country, we’ll be here in the capital, a pleasant seaside city of two million. Mornings are taken up with language classes, and afternoons involve lectures and site visits.

As one of the two people in the group with Arabic language training, I’m not in the intro class that was arranged. After a placement test that pretty much used every ounce of my jet lagged brain, I had a long discussion with the placement coordinator. Essentially, it boils down to this: my spoken Arabic is near perfect, but my written grammar is terrible – I flat out forgot how to construct active and passive participles. So, for the next couple of days I’m sitting in on one of the intermediate classes where they’re doing that stuff, and next week I’ll start a class on the Moroccan dialect, which is what I really wanted to do.

The dynamics of language are quite different here than in Egypt. I had been told that Arabic speaking foreigners are somewhat rare in Morocco, which seems odd given the number of foreigners who come here to study. The dining room staff doesn’t know what to do with me, and are more happy to seek discussion with the members of the group who speak French, especially the maitre’d who quite visibly sneered the first evening when I tried to ask him for something in Arabic.

The maids, on the other hand, think I am the best thing ever. They keep stopping me in the hallway to engage me in conversation and it generally takes me forever to dash the few feet from my room to the elevator.

I have photos – quite a few from last evening’s visit to the Chellah (an historic site not too far from the hotel), but I’m on my iPad at the moment and haven’t really had a chance to go through and sort out the good ones. So, stay tuned.

So far the group seems to be doing well. I still haven’t decided if one particular member is eccentric or crazy, but she is, at least, crazy in a non offensive way.

And that’s all for now. More dispatches later…

Lifestyles of the Straight and Hopeless

Wednesday, February 18th, 2009

I realize that I neglected, in my not-terribly-triumphant announcement that I am returning to blogging more frequently, that I neglected to provide any details about Saturday evening.

Every so often, when I’m out in public, I observe the mating habits of that most intriguing of creatures, homo sapiensis heterosexualis, and I wonder–sometimes to myself, sometimes aloud–how it is that our species has managed to propagate itself as long as it has, given that, well, straight boys are just completely inept. Honestly. The survival of mankind as we know it depends on this??

I should preface this by acknowledging that Ray made what is not an entirely inaccurate observation about me. When I’m out in public, and I see someone who looks young, I tend to comment that they’re “twelve!” Ray gently pointed out that it’s not that they’re getting younger, it’s that I’m getting older. I prefer to think that it’s both, but whatever.

We started Valentine’s Day evening at a local wine bar, Cork and Company, where we had a couple of glasses of wine and some cheese. It was here that I had my first great revelation of the evening: I don’t know anywhere near enough lesbians. I like lesbians. In fact, it’s entirely possible that I enjoy the company of lesbians more than I enjoy the company of many gay men. We were seated at the bar (stupid me: it hadn’t occurred to me to make reservations at the bar that I planned to go to before dinner–this is why I hate Valentine’s Day!) next to a pair of lesbians. I don’t know if they were a couple or not, but they were a hoot to watch. They kept the alcohol coming, and they were no-nonsense, and god help the meandering soul who got a little too close to their space. They even managed to get the bartender to watch their seats for them while they went outside to smoke (Austin’s starting to make California look pro-tobacco).

On the other side of us was a young straight couple (me: “He’s twelve!” Ray: “He’s got three wine glasses in front of him. He’s clearly over 21.” Me: “He can’t possibly be shaving.” Ray: “You do know that he’s two feet away from you and can probably hear every word you’re saying, right?”). In all honesty, these were straight people who were significantly less inept than the others I observed later. She had on a nice dress; he was wearing a suit, and they seemed to be engaging each other in some conversation that prevented him from hearing (or at least acknowledging) the bitterly aging queen sitting next to them.

Then we strolled off to dinner. I had managed to secure late reservations at a Mediterranean restaurant called Taverna. They have a sister branch in Dallas that I’m convinced that I’ve been to, which is more Greek in style. The one in Austin is decidedly Italian. I kind of want to try the one in Houston just to see if it’s Lebanese.

Anyway, Taverna isn’t the cheapest place in town — it’s midrange, and I knew it because when I was spending a lot of Fulbright’s money last summer, I took a group of twenty there for dinner and earned a few frequent flier miles for it. I recalled that we enjoyed the food, and I thought it might be a nice place on Valentine’s Day.

Dirty business first: Ray had the veal parmagiana, I had butternut squash risotto with sea scallops. They were both good. Moving on.

There was another (presumably) gay couple sitting next to us. We decided that we were cuter than they were, and so that was that.

At my eleven o’clock, there was a young Latino couple. (Me: “They’re twelve!” Ray: “They’re not twelve. They have drinks.” Me: “They’re drinking soda.”) He was in a shirt and tie (no jacket), and a pair of loafers that had seen better days. He was slouched so far down in his seat that it was a wonder that he didn’t have to put his plate in his lap in order to eat. She was dolled up in a cute dress. I don’t know what the story was, but I tend to form judgments when, for example, it’s Valentine’s Day and the waiter hands the check to the woman and she pays. That’s just not right.

About halfway through the meal, another couple came in and sat at my nine o’clock. She was wearing a gray dress and had clearly spent hours getting ready. He clearly had not. He was wearing an untucked shirt over a paid of jeans and black athletic shoes. If I were her, I’d have left his sorry ass standing at the door. He spent the whole meal leering at her as if he was just going through the motions so that he could get to the part later where they have sex. Assuming that she didn’t dump him after dinner.

Which, of course, leads to the other thing I find weird about Valentine’s Day. You’re supposed to get dressed up, go out, eat a lot, have dessert, and drinks, and then … who still feels sexy after that? I felt kind of bloated.

But still. Every time I’m out in a formal setting, I tend to look at the straight couples of whom society approves, and I wonder … “How in the name of God have we not died out yet?” Because sometimes … it just doesn’t make that much sense.

About the Banner: Istanbul

Thursday, October 12th, 2006

Turkish novelist Orhan Pamuk was awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature today, and this has inspired me to create a new banner:

Istanbul

The original photo is here, not much different from the cropped version used in the banner:

IMG 4583

This is Istiklal Cadessi (Independence Avenue) in the heart of Beyoglu, Istanbul’s fashionable European inspired neighborhood. Istiklal is the wild heart of cosmopolitan Istanbul, where cultures, races, creeds, nations, and genders all come together in a loud bizarre mishmash the likes of which you haven’t seen unless you’ve rewatched Tales from the City recently.

I went to Turkey in 2004 for the first time on a Fulbright program that took us first to the troubled island of Cyprus. Coming from a Greek-American family, I’d heard all of the horror stories about both places, about what “they” did to “us.” For the record, both halves of my family are from Greece proper, and we have no relatives in Cyprus, so I’m not sure who “us” is, but that’s another story altogether. As I had begun to suspect, after some time in both places, I realized that most of my relatives had no idea what they were talking about.

On the other hand, there are skeletons in the closets of all three nations: Cyprus, Greece, and Turkey, and so far it seems that Cyprus is the only one of the three that has even remotely begun to take a hard look at itself (even though it’s also the only one that has reason and motive to place a good chunk of the blame for its current situation on outsiders).

When I suggested at a recent family gathering that Greeks and Turks have more in common than they do in difference, my aunt began speaking in tongues and crossed herself so much that I was afraid she’d develop carpal tunnel syndrome. Her Greek sister-in-law (by which I mean that she’s actually from Greece, not of the diaspora) was far less troubled by this statement. And so the struggle continues.

Which brings us back to Orhan Pamuk. He’s been in trouble in Turkey recently for taking his government to task for not allowing open discussion of That Which We Shall Not Discuss: namely, the issue of what happened to Turkey’s Christian minorities in the waning days of the Ottoman Empire (whether it be genocide or not), and the issue of Turkey’s Kurds, for whom the problem can best be summed up in a statement that I heard in a lecture in Ankara: “There is no Kurdish problem. There is no problem for the Kurds at all. They can be anything they choose, as long as they choose to be part of the Turkish nation.”

Pamuk’s greatest achievements, though, as Svenskaakademien recognized in their choice, have to do with his writing. His books play off the conflict and union of cultures as East and West have combined to create something new. Anyone whose read any of his novels recognizes that he’s also taken a uniquely western form of writing (the novel) and made it into something new. (My personal favorite is My Name is Red, set amongst intrigue and murder in 16th century Istanbul).

Pamuk is only the second writer from an Islamic country to be awarded the prize, the first being Egyptian writer Naguib Mahfouz, who died in August. Where Mahfouz was a popular writer, Pamuk seeks to re-define writing on his own terms. Both of them have loads to offer us in the West by way of introspect into how a part of the world that we view only in terms of difference and conflict really thinks, feels, and acts.

… and home again

Wednesday, July 13th, 2005

Austin, cloudy, 8 million degrees

Well, I’m home, attempting to adjust to the concept of ‘drinkable tap water,’ ice that doesn’t need to be viewed with suspicion, and toilets that will happily flush toilet paper.

I can barely remember the last 48 hours of the program in Cairo and the trip back. Monday morning was the mad dash through the Khan el Khalili, since Kamran and I had somehow managed to avoid shopping for ourselves or people we knew personally until that point (Jackie, if you’re reading this: I’m only kidding…) After the Khan we had a brief hour to rest before I went off to DHL to mail 21 kilograms of purchases for the outreach program while Kamran went to Fulbright to take the mobile phones back. Naturally, he had just returned when we needed them again. Then it was off to the Diwan bookstore to spend our remaining money – we spent, count with me here, children – four thousand pounds (Egyptian pounds) on books and movies, then went back to DHL where our friendly customer service guy must have been on Cloud 9.

At 6:30 we met as a group to ‘wrap up the program,’ which I was too tired to do on the spur of the moment, so it lasted until about 6:35. Then we went to Abu Sid for our farewell dinner. At the end, the group did a wonderful little presentation of thanks, which involved Monica singing, and then it was time to go. We all said goodbye to Trudi, who was leaving for Ukraine on her own, and gradually meandered back to the hotel. I decided at that point that I was too tired to fly home.

Unfortunately, my opinion didn’t really count. At 1 AM we were all in the lobby to go, applauding the heroic bell captain as he climbed on top of the bus to load the luggage that we all knew for a fact was within mere micrograms of the weight limit (you get an extra half pound when you fly on the European airlines – they let you have two 32 kg bags, which works out to 70.5 lbs instead of the usual 70). Then it was off to Cairo Airport where Kamran ran to catch his flight to Amsterdam, which left an hour before the rest of us. I nearly killed one of the porters for demanding too much baksheesh. I was tired, sweaty, dehydrated already, and I was looking for someone to take it out on, and the kind soul walked into my line of vision with a bullseye on his forehead. I nearly got an ovation from the people watching, too.

Off to Frankfurt – I barely remember that flight. I have a vague recollection of taking off and thinking, “Oh, look, it’s the Nilezzzzzzzzz.” I still have issues with the fact that the only place to eat at the Frankfurt Airport is McDonald’s.

As for the 9 hour flight to Chicago, I have the following observations:

  1. Groups of teenagers should not be seated next to each other on long flights
  2. Especially when they’re behind me.
  3. And kicking my seat.

As for my other seatmate, the chipper Polish fake blonde, I offer the following:

  1. Going braless on a 9 hour flight is a good idea only if you’re a man.
  2. And not inclined to adjusting your boobs constantly

In the end, I made it home much later than I expected – our final flight to Austin was delayed 2 hours. We finally took off around 8 pm, and I recall waking up so disoriented that I couldn’t remember where I was – for a moment I was convinced I was still in Egypt. Ray was late to pick me up because United had the flight arriving 45 minutes later than it did, so I called to see where he was and he’d just left the house.

But I’m home now.

In all honesty, the program went extremely well. I was thrilled to have such a good group, and we had an excellent program and support on the ground in the US and in Egypt. Not only did it go better than I expected, it went much better than I’d dared to hope.

So, that’s where this little tale ends. There’s a song to the tune of Gilligan’s Island, but it’s in my luggage and I’m just too tired to look for it right now …
But I

Heat, heat, go away…

Monday, July 4th, 2005

Cairo, 94 degrees

According to my little weather icon thingy it says it’s 91 here. Bull. The last couple of days have been hot, even by Egyptian standards. I know for a fact that it was at least 38 yesterday (102). It’s supposed to drop into the low 90s tomorrow, and I, for one, am ready.

I’m sitting in the hotel bar by myself – the rest of the group has gone off to the annual 4th of July celebration in Maadi at the Cairo American College. I was SO hot today that I just couldn’t deal with it – I was clearly suffering from heat exhaustion and begged Kamran to take the group on his own. I offered tomorrow’s program in exchange – I’ll go on the school visit (which would have bored him anyway) if he takes them to the barbecue. I think some of the group are just happy to be getting Dr. Pepper (jeez, I hope I wasn’t making that up). They don’t make it here, and it’s pretty expensive when you can find it because it has to be imported.

Kamran, by the way, has entered his bitchy phase and I’m quite amused by it. He’s usually not so grumpy.

Anyway. Yesterday morning we went over to the Arab League for a tour of the beautiful building, and a meeting with the Chief of Staff for Secretary General Amr Moussa. For a diplomat he was very open and honest, and I think he did a good job of voicing the Arab perspective on US policy in the region, as well as demonstrating the different styles that tend to work for negotiating in this part of the world. The group was pretty impressed, and I just thought it was freaking cool that we got to go to the Arab League.

In the afternoon there was another lecture at Fulbright on women and the family. The speaker, a female professor at AUC, was very dynamic – no notes. Some of her info was a bit … simplistic, but overall I think that it went very well.

Today we went to visit Rania’s NGO and its work in Manshiet Nasr, one of the former squatter settlements that’s rather well established. The area is particularly uneven – there’s a nice area where Suzanne Mubarak (Egypt’s First Lady who would like very much to be Evita) came to cut the red ribbon: “Oh, look how we’re supporting the poor.” The real work is done by the NGOs. I think a bunch of people were struck by the poverty, but I was kind of blase – after the slums of Jaipur it’s hard to phase me. When you’ve walked through human shit, dirt roads aren’t a big deal.

Here’s an anecdote: my little subgroup got to meet Umm Ashraf. Umm Ashraf is 61 years old and lives in a one room shack. She’s one of the participants in the microfinance program run by the NGO – basically, they give small loans to women to get them going in some business arrangements (and they have a 99% repayment rate – imagine…). Umm Ashraf goes to bakeries and buys their leftovers and sells them to children and others in the neighorhood. She calls herself “Groppi,” after the legendary Greek bakery that was a popular place before the 1952 revolution.

Umm Ashraf is a character. She told us a story about how she doesn’t look Egyptian because she doesn’t wear her gold false teeth anymore. Apparently, this is because her husband hit her in the mouth once, and, being pragmatic, she divorced him immediately (you go girl!). I think our folks liked her because she’s very happy – she’s in a slum, living in a shack with no air conditioning, and she was trying to offer us food. That’s Egypt for you. We had a bit of discussion afterwards – to be continued, no doubt – but the upshot was that the main difference between here and the US is that the poor here are trying to get to the next level, and the poor in the US are trying to get to the top. Realistic expectations make people a little happier with what they have.

At any rate. I’ve finished my hibiscus tea (lots of Vitamin C), and it’s getting dark so I may venture outside. I really hope the cooling trend comes true, because I dunno if I can deal with another day like this …

 

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