I am sitting in the courtyard of a converted villa in the swank Souissi district of Rabat, the capital of Morocco, where it is a perfectly pleasant 78 degrees. The courtyard villa is now a language center, and the group is currently taking an introductory language course wherein they are learning the Arabic alphabet. Good for them.
We arrived Sunday … Good grief, was that really just two days ago? … Into Casablanca. The airport was a little dumpier than I remembered it from my last visit three years ago. The customs agent was thrilled that I spoke Arabic and gave me my first language test of the trip:
“Where did you learn Arabic?”
“Egypt,” says I.
“Do you love Egypt?” he asked.
“I do,” says I, “bhebbha kteeran“
“Morocco,” he informed me, “is better than Egypt.”
We shall see.
Yesterday was our first full day in Rabat. For the first two weeks that we’re in country, we’ll be here in the capital, a pleasant seaside city of two million. Mornings are taken up with language classes, and afternoons involve lectures and site visits.
As one of the two people in the group with Arabic language training, I’m not in the intro class that was arranged. After a placement test that pretty much used every ounce of my jet lagged brain, I had a long discussion with the placement coordinator. Essentially, it boils down to this: my spoken Arabic is near perfect, but my written grammar is terrible – I flat out forgot how to construct active and passive participles. So, for the next couple of days I’m sitting in on one of the intermediate classes where they’re doing that stuff, and next week I’ll start a class on the Moroccan dialect, which is what I really wanted to do.
The dynamics of language are quite different here than in Egypt. I had been told that Arabic speaking foreigners are somewhat rare in Morocco, which seems odd given the number of foreigners who come here to study. The dining room staff doesn’t know what to do with me, and are more happy to seek discussion with the members of the group who speak French, especially the maitre’d who quite visibly sneered the first evening when I tried to ask him for something in Arabic.
The maids, on the other hand, think I am the best thing ever. They keep stopping me in the hallway to engage me in conversation and it generally takes me forever to dash the few feet from my room to the elevator.
I have photos – quite a few from last evening’s visit to the Chellah (an historic site not too far from the hotel), but I’m on my iPad at the moment and haven’t really had a chance to go through and sort out the good ones. So, stay tuned.
So far the group seems to be doing well. I still haven’t decided if one particular member is eccentric or crazy, but she is, at least, crazy in a non offensive way.
And that’s all for now. More dispatches later…






