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About Ramblings of a Hopeless Khowaga

Welcome to my Web site. My name is Chris, and I’ll be your host. I live in Austin, Texas, with my partner, Ray, and our child dog, Mocha. You can read more about me, learn 100 random things about me, and if you’re wondering what the heck a khowaga is, click here. Feel free to browse, read, and leave comments!

Tag: ‘fulbright’



Lifestyles of the Straight and Hopeless

Wednesday, February 18th, 2009

I realize that I neglected, in my not-terribly-triumphant announcement that I am returning to blogging more frequently, that I neglected to provide any details about Saturday evening.

Every so often, when I’m out in public, I observe the mating habits of that most intriguing of creatures, homo sapiensis heterosexualis, and I wonder–sometimes to myself, sometimes aloud–how it is that our species has managed to propagate itself as long as it has, given that, well, straight boys are just completely inept. Honestly. The survival of mankind as we know it depends on this??

I should preface this by acknowledging that Ray made what is not an entirely inaccurate observation about me. When I’m out in public, and I see someone who looks young, I tend to comment that they’re “twelve!” Ray gently pointed out that it’s not that they’re getting younger, it’s that I’m getting older. I prefer to think that it’s both, but whatever.

We started Valentine’s Day evening at a local wine bar, Cork and Company, where we had a couple of glasses of wine and some cheese. It was here that I had my first great revelation of the evening: I don’t know anywhere near enough lesbians. I like lesbians. In fact, it’s entirely possible that I enjoy the company of lesbians more than I enjoy the company of many gay men. We were seated at the bar (stupid me: it hadn’t occurred to me to make reservations at the bar that I planned to go to before dinner–this is why I hate Valentine’s Day!) next to a pair of lesbians. I don’t know if they were a couple or not, but they were a hoot to watch. They kept the alcohol coming, and they were no-nonsense, and god help the meandering soul who got a little too close to their space. They even managed to get the bartender to watch their seats for them while they went outside to smoke (Austin’s starting to make California look pro-tobacco).

On the other side of us was a young straight couple (me: “He’s twelve!” Ray: “He’s got three wine glasses in front of him. He’s clearly over 21.” Me: “He can’t possibly be shaving.” Ray: “You do know that he’s two feet away from you and can probably hear every word you’re saying, right?”). In all honesty, these were straight people who were significantly less inept than the others I observed later. She had on a nice dress; he was wearing a suit, and they seemed to be engaging each other in some conversation that prevented him from hearing (or at least acknowledging) the bitterly aging queen sitting next to them.

Then we strolled off to dinner. I had managed to secure late reservations at a Mediterranean restaurant called Taverna. They have a sister branch in Dallas that I’m convinced that I’ve been to, which is more Greek in style. The one in Austin is decidedly Italian. I kind of want to try the one in Houston just to see if it’s Lebanese.

Anyway, Taverna isn’t the cheapest place in town — it’s midrange, and I knew it because when I was spending a lot of Fulbright’s money last summer, I took a group of twenty there for dinner and earned a few frequent flier miles for it. I recalled that we enjoyed the food, and I thought it might be a nice place on Valentine’s Day.

Dirty business first: Ray had the veal parmagiana, I had butternut squash risotto with sea scallops. They were both good. Moving on.

There was another (presumably) gay couple sitting next to us. We decided that we were cuter than they were, and so that was that.

At my eleven o’clock, there was a young Latino couple. (Me: “They’re twelve!” Ray: “They’re not twelve. They have drinks.” Me: “They’re drinking soda.”) He was in a shirt and tie (no jacket), and a pair of loafers that had seen better days. He was slouched so far down in his seat that it was a wonder that he didn’t have to put his plate in his lap in order to eat. She was dolled up in a cute dress. I don’t know what the story was, but I tend to form judgments when, for example, it’s Valentine’s Day and the waiter hands the check to the woman and she pays. That’s just not right.

About halfway through the meal, another couple came in and sat at my nine o’clock. She was wearing a gray dress and had clearly spent hours getting ready. He clearly had not. He was wearing an untucked shirt over a paid of jeans and black athletic shoes. If I were her, I’d have left his sorry ass standing at the door. He spent the whole meal leering at her as if he was just going through the motions so that he could get to the part later where they have sex. Assuming that she didn’t dump him after dinner.

Which, of course, leads to the other thing I find weird about Valentine’s Day. You’re supposed to get dressed up, go out, eat a lot, have dessert, and drinks, and then … who still feels sexy after that? I felt kind of bloated.

But still. Every time I’m out in a formal setting, I tend to look at the straight couples of whom society approves, and I wonder … “How in the name of God have we not died out yet?” Because sometimes … it just doesn’t make that much sense.

About the Banner: Istanbul

Thursday, October 12th, 2006

Turkish novelist Orhan Pamuk was awarded the Nobel Prize in Literature today, and this has inspired me to create a new banner:

Istanbul

The original photo is here, not much different from the cropped version used in the banner:

IMG 4583

This is Istiklal Cadessi (Independence Avenue) in the heart of Beyoglu, Istanbul’s fashionable European inspired neighborhood. Istiklal is the wild heart of cosmopolitan Istanbul, where cultures, races, creeds, nations, and genders all come together in a loud bizarre mishmash the likes of which you haven’t seen unless you’ve rewatched Tales from the City recently.

I went to Turkey in 2004 for the first time on a Fulbright program that took us first to the troubled island of Cyprus. Coming from a Greek-American family, I’d heard all of the horror stories about both places, about what “they” did to “us.” For the record, both halves of my family are from Greece proper, and we have no relatives in Cyprus, so I’m not sure who “us” is, but that’s another story altogether. As I had begun to suspect, after some time in both places, I realized that most of my relatives had no idea what they were talking about.

On the other hand, there are skeletons in the closets of all three nations: Cyprus, Greece, and Turkey, and so far it seems that Cyprus is the only one of the three that has even remotely begun to take a hard look at itself (even though it’s also the only one that has reason and motive to place a good chunk of the blame for its current situation on outsiders).

When I suggested at a recent family gathering that Greeks and Turks have more in common than they do in difference, my aunt began speaking in tongues and crossed herself so much that I was afraid she’d develop carpal tunnel syndrome. Her Greek sister-in-law (by which I mean that she’s actually from Greece, not of the diaspora) was far less troubled by this statement. And so the struggle continues.

Which brings us back to Orhan Pamuk. He’s been in trouble in Turkey recently for taking his government to task for not allowing open discussion of That Which We Shall Not Discuss: namely, the issue of what happened to Turkey’s Christian minorities in the waning days of the Ottoman Empire (whether it be genocide or not), and the issue of Turkey’s Kurds, for whom the problem can best be summed up in a statement that I heard in a lecture in Ankara: “There is no Kurdish problem. There is no problem for the Kurds at all. They can be anything they choose, as long as they choose to be part of the Turkish nation.”

Pamuk’s greatest achievements, though, as Svenskaakademien recognized in their choice, have to do with his writing. His books play off the conflict and union of cultures as East and West have combined to create something new. Anyone whose read any of his novels recognizes that he’s also taken a uniquely western form of writing (the novel) and made it into something new. (My personal favorite is My Name is Red, set amongst intrigue and murder in 16th century Istanbul).

Pamuk is only the second writer from an Islamic country to be awarded the prize, the first being Egyptian writer Naguib Mahfouz, who died in August. Where Mahfouz was a popular writer, Pamuk seeks to re-define writing on his own terms. Both of them have loads to offer us in the West by way of introspect into how a part of the world that we view only in terms of difference and conflict really thinks, feels, and acts.

… and home again

Wednesday, July 13th, 2005

Austin, cloudy, 8 million degrees

Well, I’m home, attempting to adjust to the concept of ‘drinkable tap water,’ ice that doesn’t need to be viewed with suspicion, and toilets that will happily flush toilet paper.

I can barely remember the last 48 hours of the program in Cairo and the trip back. Monday morning was the mad dash through the Khan el Khalili, since Kamran and I had somehow managed to avoid shopping for ourselves or people we knew personally until that point (Jackie, if you’re reading this: I’m only kidding…) After the Khan we had a brief hour to rest before I went off to DHL to mail 21 kilograms of purchases for the outreach program while Kamran went to Fulbright to take the mobile phones back. Naturally, he had just returned when we needed them again. Then it was off to the Diwan bookstore to spend our remaining money – we spent, count with me here, children – four thousand pounds (Egyptian pounds) on books and movies, then went back to DHL where our friendly customer service guy must have been on Cloud 9.

At 6:30 we met as a group to ‘wrap up the program,’ which I was too tired to do on the spur of the moment, so it lasted until about 6:35. Then we went to Abu Sid for our farewell dinner. At the end, the group did a wonderful little presentation of thanks, which involved Monica singing, and then it was time to go. We all said goodbye to Trudi, who was leaving for Ukraine on her own, and gradually meandered back to the hotel. I decided at that point that I was too tired to fly home.

Unfortunately, my opinion didn’t really count. At 1 AM we were all in the lobby to go, applauding the heroic bell captain as he climbed on top of the bus to load the luggage that we all knew for a fact was within mere micrograms of the weight limit (you get an extra half pound when you fly on the European airlines – they let you have two 32 kg bags, which works out to 70.5 lbs instead of the usual 70). Then it was off to Cairo Airport where Kamran ran to catch his flight to Amsterdam, which left an hour before the rest of us. I nearly killed one of the porters for demanding too much baksheesh. I was tired, sweaty, dehydrated already, and I was looking for someone to take it out on, and the kind soul walked into my line of vision with a bullseye on his forehead. I nearly got an ovation from the people watching, too.

Off to Frankfurt – I barely remember that flight. I have a vague recollection of taking off and thinking, “Oh, look, it’s the Nilezzzzzzzzz.” I still have issues with the fact that the only place to eat at the Frankfurt Airport is McDonald’s.

As for the 9 hour flight to Chicago, I have the following observations:

  1. Groups of teenagers should not be seated next to each other on long flights
  2. Especially when they’re behind me.
  3. And kicking my seat.

As for my other seatmate, the chipper Polish fake blonde, I offer the following:

  1. Going braless on a 9 hour flight is a good idea only if you’re a man.
  2. And not inclined to adjusting your boobs constantly

In the end, I made it home much later than I expected – our final flight to Austin was delayed 2 hours. We finally took off around 8 pm, and I recall waking up so disoriented that I couldn’t remember where I was – for a moment I was convinced I was still in Egypt. Ray was late to pick me up because United had the flight arriving 45 minutes later than it did, so I called to see where he was and he’d just left the house.

But I’m home now.

In all honesty, the program went extremely well. I was thrilled to have such a good group, and we had an excellent program and support on the ground in the US and in Egypt. Not only did it go better than I expected, it went much better than I’d dared to hope.

So, that’s where this little tale ends. There’s a song to the tune of Gilligan’s Island, but it’s in my luggage and I’m just too tired to look for it right now …
But I

Heat, heat, go away…

Monday, July 4th, 2005

Cairo, 94 degrees

According to my little weather icon thingy it says it’s 91 here. Bull. The last couple of days have been hot, even by Egyptian standards. I know for a fact that it was at least 38 yesterday (102). It’s supposed to drop into the low 90s tomorrow, and I, for one, am ready.

I’m sitting in the hotel bar by myself – the rest of the group has gone off to the annual 4th of July celebration in Maadi at the Cairo American College. I was SO hot today that I just couldn’t deal with it – I was clearly suffering from heat exhaustion and begged Kamran to take the group on his own. I offered tomorrow’s program in exchange – I’ll go on the school visit (which would have bored him anyway) if he takes them to the barbecue. I think some of the group are just happy to be getting Dr. Pepper (jeez, I hope I wasn’t making that up). They don’t make it here, and it’s pretty expensive when you can find it because it has to be imported.

Kamran, by the way, has entered his bitchy phase and I’m quite amused by it. He’s usually not so grumpy.

Anyway. Yesterday morning we went over to the Arab League for a tour of the beautiful building, and a meeting with the Chief of Staff for Secretary General Amr Moussa. For a diplomat he was very open and honest, and I think he did a good job of voicing the Arab perspective on US policy in the region, as well as demonstrating the different styles that tend to work for negotiating in this part of the world. The group was pretty impressed, and I just thought it was freaking cool that we got to go to the Arab League.

In the afternoon there was another lecture at Fulbright on women and the family. The speaker, a female professor at AUC, was very dynamic – no notes. Some of her info was a bit … simplistic, but overall I think that it went very well.

Today we went to visit Rania’s NGO and its work in Manshiet Nasr, one of the former squatter settlements that’s rather well established. The area is particularly uneven – there’s a nice area where Suzanne Mubarak (Egypt’s First Lady who would like very much to be Evita) came to cut the red ribbon: “Oh, look how we’re supporting the poor.” The real work is done by the NGOs. I think a bunch of people were struck by the poverty, but I was kind of blase – after the slums of Jaipur it’s hard to phase me. When you’ve walked through human shit, dirt roads aren’t a big deal.

Here’s an anecdote: my little subgroup got to meet Umm Ashraf. Umm Ashraf is 61 years old and lives in a one room shack. She’s one of the participants in the microfinance program run by the NGO – basically, they give small loans to women to get them going in some business arrangements (and they have a 99% repayment rate – imagine…). Umm Ashraf goes to bakeries and buys their leftovers and sells them to children and others in the neighorhood. She calls herself “Groppi,” after the legendary Greek bakery that was a popular place before the 1952 revolution.

Umm Ashraf is a character. She told us a story about how she doesn’t look Egyptian because she doesn’t wear her gold false teeth anymore. Apparently, this is because her husband hit her in the mouth once, and, being pragmatic, she divorced him immediately (you go girl!). I think our folks liked her because she’s very happy – she’s in a slum, living in a shack with no air conditioning, and she was trying to offer us food. That’s Egypt for you. We had a bit of discussion afterwards – to be continued, no doubt – but the upshot was that the main difference between here and the US is that the poor here are trying to get to the next level, and the poor in the US are trying to get to the top. Realistic expectations make people a little happier with what they have.

At any rate. I’ve finished my hibiscus tea (lots of Vitamin C), and it’s getting dark so I may venture outside. I really hope the cooling trend comes true, because I dunno if I can deal with another day like this …

Homecoming, or, the incredible crucifix hammer

Sunday, June 26th, 2005

Cairo, about 85 degrees, partly hazy

We arrived back in Cairo yesterday morning, and it really was something of a homecoming. Back to the same hotel, with the overly friendly staff with their hands always out to help … or ask for a tip. maalesh as they say here – it’s just the way it is.

Yesterday was not a good day with the bus. We arrived at Rameses station bright and early – about an hour late; it was around 8 AM when we arrived. There was no bus to meet us. Our group managed to attract no less than 9 tourist police who went looking for the bus, and then rounded up taxis for the group. The group actually found the taxi ride fun, which was fortunate because we had to do the same thing when it came time to go to the Monastery of Barsoum el-Aryan in Helwan and the bus didn’t show up then, either. Laila from Fulbright was with us and her driver organized yet another taxi caravan down into the southern suburbs. When Laila finally got Hala, the travel agent, on the phone she did a much better job of exploding than I could because Laila can do it in Arabic. Also, Laila does lots of business with Hala, so I’m sure the decline in service quality was not unnoticed. When the phone was finally handed over to me there were lots of “reallys” in the apology from Hala.

Anyway. The monastery visit was surreal. We were greeted by an Egyptian nun with absolutely no personality whatsoever, whom we dubbed “Mother Superiorer,” because her general attitude was that she’s superior-er than you. Mother Superiorer reminded me very much of Lurch, the tour guide I had last summer at Topkapi Palace in Istanbul. “This is icon of Our Lord Jesus. Now we shift to new place.”

His Eminence Picenti, Bishop of Helwan and Ma’asarah was an interesting character. He rambled on at some length, reading for a while, then expanding on what he’d just said, and talking very, very quietly. At one point, he showed a map of the Holy Family’s trip through Egypt (the one not documented in any of the 4 Gospels that he insists are the basis of Coptic Christian beliefs), and there was some rustling about while a sheet was produced for the overhead, since the wood panel walls weren’t particularly conducive for an overhead projector. Then there was some fumbling with thumbacks, and His Eminence startled all of us by pulling out his large, heavy cross and using it as a hammer to nail the thumbtacks into the wall. It was like the proverbial fart in church – the giggle loop started and wouldn’t die. For me, the worst thing was that Kamran was sitting behind me and he was really, really trying (unsuccessfully) not to laugh – and since he never, ever does that, it was hard for me not to follow suit. The non-giggling continued for a while.

I won’t repeat the material of the lecture, since it was rather inconsequential. His Eminence did go on at some length about how homosexuals and women priests are the downfall of mankind, and there were a few quotes worth writing down, for example: “Woman is like the crown on the head of the man.” I’ll give the group credit – we waited until we got on the bus (which showed up an hour late to pick us up) until the incredulous comments started to fly.

Today, there were two lectures at Fulbright. I missed the first one, since I needed to print out the schedule and get some stuff taken care of. The second lecture was on Islam in Egypt by a Professor of Shari’a (Islamic Law) at Al-Azhar University, which is still the preeminent religious institution in the Sunni Muslim world. He was, in a word, fanstastic. I wish there were more people like him on CNN and less clips from the bin Ladens of the world. Some of the Islamophobia of the world might be a little less virulent if that were the case. Fulbright has definitely come through with the lecture program, and we’re not even halfway through.

The afternoon discussion session – mine – went well, too, although we got kind of silly toward the end. I invented an Egyptian peasant named Edna Mae who took on more characteristics than I expected her to, but what the hey. I got the point across. Kamran took Barbara back to the hospital, and they took 3 of her stitches out, and the other 3 will come out in 3 days. (Lots of 3s). Her leg is healing nicely, and they even cleared her to go swimming in the Sinai this weekend.

At any rate. Tomorrow we’re off to the Old City for the first time, with a visit to my ever-favorite place, the Mosque of Ibn Tulun. And I’m actually well rested for once!

 

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