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About Ramblings of a Hopeless Khowaga

Welcome to my Web site. My name is Chris, and I’ll be your host. I\'m an opinionated, snarky, gay academic with a predilection for the history, the Arab world, languages, photography, food, and music. I live in Austin, Texas. You can read more about me, learn 100 random things about me, and if you’re wondering what the heck a khowaga is, click here. Feel free to browse, read, and leave comments!

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Border Issues, or, Return of the Sepulchre Volante

Wednesday, February 25th, 2009

It’s a week after I swore up and down that I was going to make a concerted effort to return to blogging on a more regular basis, and this would be my very first post since then.  The irony is so rich that I could serve it with ice cream.

I have a valid excuse: for the past couple of days, I’ve been on the road down in the Rio Grande Valley.  On Monday, we were conducting training in Edinburg, Texas, and on Tuesday, we were in Laredo:

Map image

I took my camera with me, convinced that photographic opportunities were going to present themselves.  Unfortunately, save for the cemetery that was overrun with balloons (the one that I drove past at a good sixty miles an hour), not much appeared that was photo worthy.

I’ve always enjoyed traveling down to the Valley.  The people we’re down there to train are always unbelievably savvy and actually interested in what we’re there to do (and turn out in good numbers — our session in Edinburg may well have been the largest one we’ve ever done).  The Valley itself is quite unlike anywhere else in the state of Texas, which is another reason why I like going down there.  You drive and drive across miles of ranching land (which, to the naked eye, would appear to be synonymous with “nothingness”) and then, just as you reach the outskirts of the urban areas on either of the two highways that run down there, a most interesting geographic transformation takes place.  All of a sudden, the scrub land gives way to lush, green fields.  Cactus becomes palm trees.  And suddenly, it feels like you’ve managed to drive through a wormhole into south Florida (senior citizens with RVs included).

We’ve done work in Brownsville, Texas, before, which is absolutely the end of the line.  There’s no part of Texas farther south than Brownsville – from that point forward, it’s all Mexico.  This time, we were in Edinburg, about an hour’s drive west. 

Our local contact in Brownsville, with whom we’ve become friendly over the years, used to take us to a restaurant across the border in Mexico.  This trip, however, we didn’t discuss crossing the border.  For one, the passport requirement for land crossings kicked in last month, and I don’t like using my passport to enter the United States because apparently there’s something on my Customs and Border Patrol record that makes immigration officers frown.  Second, and more critically, the situation on the Mexican side of the border is pretty tense at the moment.  The State Department issued a warning last week for Americans traveling in the border region, and a good number of the bridges were shut down due to citizen protests believed to have been orchestrated by one or another of the drug cartels battling for control of the major cities along the US border.

So, after we completed our session in Edinburg and headed north for our first-ever session in Laredo, we did not cross the border and take the more direct and apparently superior Mexico Highway 2 that runs between Reynosa and Nuevo Laredo.  Instead, we took the main highway on this side, US Highway 83.

I wrote many months ago about a trip in a service taxi in Morocco that we’ve since dubbed the “flying coffin.”  The trek on US 83 kind of reminded me of that trip.  It wasn’t that I was pulling up behind semi-trucks and then pulling out blindly into the opposing lane to execute a passing maneuver, as our insane Moroccan driver had done, but it certainly was interesting in a “Aren’t you glad you have Mutual of Omaha?” sort of way.  Vehicles pulled out onto the road (which becomes two lanes after civilization is left behind — which happens very quickly) apparently without regard or interest to whether there was oncoming traffic and whether or not it would have time to slow down.  More than once, I got sweaty palms noticing large vehicles in my lane that were traveling in the opposite direction, in the midst of trying to pass slower vehicles but in no particular hurry to get back over to their own side.

And then there was the omnipresent border patrol.  At nearly every vista where the mostly flat geography was interrupted by a hill that afforded a view toward the border off to our left, there was an SUV from the border patrol parked on the side of the road, apparently full of officers who were, presumably, less interested in illegal immigrants than drug traffickers.

I won’t say that it wasn’t a great relief that we managed to reach the outskirts of Laredo before the sun went down.

Our contact for the next day was a very excitable lady who, while very nice, was also a level of manic that might require medication.  Within two minutes of her arrival in the morning, we had established where we would be having lunch.  She also gleefully told us that there had been so much interest in our session that she had reopened registration the day before — which would have been fine had this not left us going through all of our things hoping for one or two copies of brochures and worksheets so that we wouldn’t find ourselves in the awkward position of telling people that they had to share.  Fortunately, at the end of the day, we managed to scrape by with nearly no extras, but enough things for everyone in the room.

Over lunch, she regaled us with stories of life on the border.  “I won’t go over there,” she said.  “It’s really bad.  I mean, they kidnap Americans for the ransom.  Even though I’m lower middle class, we’ve already figured out that if one of us gets kidnapped, we can count on our friends to raise thirty, forty thousand dollars for ransom for me.”  (How this situation would present itself in light of her first statement was a question none of us wanted to raise.)  She then went on to tell us, “You know, they harvest organs over there.  The media doesn’t report on this stuff, but I know it’s happening.  I mean, if you’re sick and you can find a rich American than no one’s going to miss, you kidnap them and take them to the black market.  Look at any one of you — I mean, you’re young and fit.  They’d take your kidneys without a second thought.”

She then went on to tell us that she really wanted to get a gun.  “A cousin of mine lives in Houston, and she carries, and this one night she was being followed and the car pulled up next to her at a light.  So she took the gun out and put it on the dashboard, and they drove off in a hurry.  So, I want to get one, too.”  Clearly her kidneys depended on it.

And so it was, when I rolled into my driveway last night, with both of my kidneys still firmly in place, that it occurred to me to wonder whether that was an indication that I’m no longer young and fit, and my kidneys aren’t desirable.  Hey, wait a minute!  How come the Laredo cartel doesn’t want my kidneys?  They’re perfectly good! 

Hmph.

Anyway.  That was my last trip for a while.  I’m looking forward to being able to put my feet up and relax this weekend, free of travel plans and hotel rooms and chain restaurants.  The conspiracy theories do make for good blog fodder, though …

12 of 12: February 2009

Thursday, February 12th, 2009

Time again for 12 of 12!

6:28 AM: Charlie

Feb  (1 of 12)

Charlie is a plastic cockroach (he has a theme song, to the tune of “Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer” — “Charlie, the Plastic Cockroach”).  You can wind him up and he’ll scuttle along the floor. Ray got him from his friend Robin around Christmas, and for the past few weeks Ray and I have been leaving him around the house trying to startle each other.  At first, we (OK, I) jumped a little bit when we saw him sitting, for example, in the bathroom sink.  Nowadays, we’re kind of immune to Charlie.  But that doesn’t stop me from trying :D

6:30 AM: Lunch

 Feb  (2 of 12)

Here’s breakfast and lunch for the day.  My iPod goes into the outer pocket of my lunchbox.  I’ve gotten pretty good at remembering to take it out before I put my lunchbox in the refrigerator at work … although, sometimes I do forget.

6:40 AM: Workward bound

Feb  (3 of 12)

7:44 AM: Flickr

Feb  (4 of 12) 

For me, Flickr is even worse than Facebook

8:38 AM: On the Phone

Feb  (5 of 12)

Talking to Natalie.  I think this is how I spend at least two thirds of my day.

My day looks like every other day I spend at work.  Fast forward to …

6:27 PM: Left Behind

 Feb  (6 of 12)

Mocha does hate it when we leave her behind.  This sort of harkens back to my “The dog thinks she’s a cat” theory … “

6:37 PM: Flowers

Feb  (7 of 12)

We’re off to visit Joanna, Ray’s friend and coworker, who had a baby last night.  The grocery store is full of flowers and candy.  It’s like there’s some sort of holiday coming up …

7:40 PM: Me and Baby Madi

 Feb  (8 of 12)

She’s not even 24 hours old and she’s already stealing hearts.  There was a huge line of people waiting to hold her after me!

7:57 PM: Mom and Baby

Feb  (9 of 12)

I wouldn’t call Joanna vain, but she … she did refuse to go to the hospital until she put on makeup.

Last glimpse of baby Madison…

 Feb  (10 of 12)

8:03 PM: Late dinner:

Feb  (11 of 12)

Ray suggests running out to pick something up.  I suggest making our own chili dogs. 

Because at our house, they come with pomegranate martinis :)

 Feb  (12 of 12)

And that’s the 12th for February.  And how was YOUR day?

Quick Update

Saturday, January 10th, 2009

I’m still alive, and quite happy to say that the stomach troubles are a thing of the past. My brother has kept us going pretty much nonstop since we got here, so I haven’t had much time to write down any thoughts (or post them), none of which is aided by the glacial speed of the internet connection I’m stealing from a neighboring office building. For tomorrow’s 12 of 12, I may have to break down and actually go someplace with real wifi.

The temperature has dipped the past couple of days–naturally, those are the ones that we had set aside to visit the royal palace compound that’s mostly outside. The 90 minute tour was conducted in 45! Even though it was sunny, when it’s -10 C, it’s damned cold (that’s around 15 degrees F).

I posted some lo-res photos on my flickr if anyone’s interested – when I’m home and attached to something more high speed and less pirated, I’ll add better versions :)

For Want of a Shoe

Friday, December 19th, 2008

By now, pretty much everyone on the planet knows about that pair of shoes that were lobbed at the President on his visit to Iraq last week. I’m not going to comment on the propriety of throwing shoes at world leaders, nor on the (apparently poor) aiming skills of certain Iraqi journalists.

I’m going to bitch about the media.

I went to a party the evening it happened, and overheard an acquaintance telling another partygoer, “You know, they said on the news that in their culture, throwing a shoe is the worst insult imaginable.” Realizing that I was nearby, heads turned to me. “Chris, you know those people. Is that true?”

Now, I don’t mean to be awful here, but can we step outside of the box for a second? The media did, for a bit, wet themselves in an attempt to get self-proclaimed culture experts in to discuss the seriousness of the incident as it is reflected in Arab culture. In fact, I witnessed a similar conversation here between two faculty members. “I just don’t think people understand how serious it is,” one of them lamented.

Here’s where Chris would like to offer some “get real” commentary:

The man threw a shoe at the President of the United States, arguably the most powerful man on earth. Who in their right mind would have watched CNN and thought to themselves, “Hmmm. I wonder if that’s some sort of greeting? Maybe it’s a benediction. Yeah, that’s it! I’ll bet that in Iraq people throw shoes as a way to make people feel welcome! Wait, here’s a culture expert … it’s an insult? They insulted my president? I never would have known that! Thank you, Fuad Ajami, for clearing that right up for me! I was about to go throw my shoes at my new Arab neighbors to make them feel welcome, but thanks to your two-bit commentary I know better! Man, that was close!”

Yes, throwing shoes is an insult in Arab culture, as is pointing the soles of your feet at people, but, really. Are we so clueless without the news media that we have to have someone explain the implications at us?

Fortunately, more serious things have come up in the media, such as a lively debate on the gender of Santa’s reindeer.

Times like these … I kinda wonder if the Unabomber had a point …

Exercising My Right to be Lazy

Sunday, November 30th, 2008

‘Tis the Sunday after Thanksgiving and all through the house
Not a creature is stirring, especially not my lazy dog
The stockings have been hung by the TV with care
Because this is Texas and we don’t have a fireplace — get real!

And enough of the writing in verse.  It’s gotten chilly down here in America’s south, although it’s not as bad as, say, up north in DC or Seattle or Ireland, but let’s be perfectly honest: I’ll bet I can deal with the heat better than those guys can (except maybe Brian since he grew up in Atlanta).  Challenge extended, I’m going to exercise my right to sit here and be a lazy bum on the sofa today.  We have a free extended cable “preview” weekend, so Ray and I have watched nearly the entire first season of True Blood and are now catching up on Dexter.  Or we will whenever Ray gets up.

Thanksgiving this year was a small affair — just the two of us and my parents, who brought their photos from their recent “If it’s Tuesday, it must be Belgium” trip through Europe.  Ray chided me slightly for critiquing my father’s photography skills (or lack thereof) but, honestly, how many times can you shoot through your bus window with flash … when you’re using a digital camera … before it occurs to you that maybe you ought to turn the flash off?

This year, the menu consisted of ham (I’m ambivalent about turkey; Ray doesn’t care for it, and my parents always have one on Christmas if they’re jonesing for a tryptophan fix), cornbread stuffing, sweet potato puree, mashed potatoes, and asparagus.  We ate outside–Thanksgiving purists, recoil in horror!  It was 80 degrees on T day this year, and I suggested that we eat on the back patio because, after the stress involved in getting the damned thing built, I kind of feel as though we ought to use it as much as possible.

I insisted on going to the outlet malls down the street (they’re only two miles away) when they opened at midnight.  For those of you not in the US, I don’t know if you can appreciate the cultural phenomenon that is Black Friday.  Frankly, I was a little astounded at the number of people who showed up at midnight, and even more astounded by the number of people who brought small, tired, cranky, whining children with them.  Isn’t the whole point of hitting the Black Friday sales to buy gifts FOR your children?  What good does it to to wake them up in the middle of the night to bring them with you??

Ray and I went together because our primary objective really wasn’t gifts for each other.  We are going on a family visit to Korea in January to visit my brother and sister-in-law (along with my parents), and, based on the advice of everyone I know who’s been to Korea in the winter, I wanted to get thermal underwear, which was on sale at the Jockey store. 

That mission accomplished, we hit a few other places–Brooks Brothers was having a sale.  I have long coveted Brooks Brothers trousers.  I own many BB shirts, and they’re the easiest damned things to take care of.  You can practically wad them up into a ball at the bottom of your suitcase and, as long as you hang them up when you get to your hotel, they’ll be free of wrinkles by morning.  I hate ironing in hotel rooms — they never make the cord long enough and the ironing board tends to leave very little room for one to actually stand in front of it and … well, let’s just say I got my trousers.  Three pair, in fact :mrgreen:

Ray actually got up again at 4 am to go hit a bunch of other stores when they opened.  I slept right through it.

It’s been a fairly quiet long weekend — after what has been a hellish fall, I’m kind of enjoying it, actually.  Yesterday we put up some of the Christmas decorations, and I guess we need to decide how much we’re going to put up outside today or put the lights away. 

Oh, and my car is now overdue for its annual inspection.  Seriously –this is earthshattering stuff here, ain’t it?

Other than that.  I hope your weekend(s) have been fun and exciting or lowkey and relaxing, whichever your hearts desire!

 

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