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About Ramblings of a Hopeless Khowaga

Welcome to my Web site. My name is Chris, and I’ll be your host. I live in Austin, Texas, with my partner, Ray, and our child dog, Mocha. You can read more about me, learn 100 random things about me, and if you’re wondering what the heck a khowaga is, click here. Feel free to browse, read, and leave comments!

Tag: ‘homesickness’



About the Banner: Mumbai

Tuesday, October 3rd, 2006

This was supposed to be my first “About the Banner” post, except I managed to screw up the simple task of e-mailing it to myself. I was planning to churn out one a week or so, but since it’s already written, I’ll pick up where I planned to yesterday.

Mumbai Windows

For what was supposed to be the first “About the Banner” entry, I decided to start with a photo that I titled simply Windows. Mumbai.

AK Trip 1025 copy

I took this photo in Mumbai (aka Bombay), Maharashtra, India, in July of 2003 on a business trip that took me to the city for an entire day and a half, one that was filled with emotional highs and lows. It’s a bit of a long story, but it’s hard for me to separate out the story of how this photo came to be, and I hope you’ll bear with me and read along after the jump …

(more…)

Rain, Rain, Go Away …

Friday, July 16th, 2004

Ankara [GP:Ankara], low 20s, rain. It’s cold and I wish I had a jacket.

Typing this on the spot, which is as unusual as the layout of the keyboard that I’m using.

I’ll write something more detailed later – There’s really not so much to say about days of lectures and another visit to the Anıtkabir. Remind me to tell you all about Richard.

Last night, I ventured out wıth Rob and Ali, our tour guide for the next portion of the program, to a local club about the size of my living room where a live band played covers of songs that were never really popular in the first place. It was fun, but we were out late, and my mental attitude was less than stellar today. I’d like to blame it on the lack of sleep and the fact that the only thing more stupid than Rob continuing to order more rounds of beer last night is the fact that I kept drinking them, but I really can’t.

Now is the portion of my journal where I sit in the pool hall/Internet cafe and tell you about all the people on the trip that are annoying the crap out of me. I will try to keep it short enough so as not to acquire emphasema while I type…

There are questions I have about why some of these people are here. Witness the one woman who asked the following question. We were at the offices of the Southern Anatolia Development Project (GAP), a multi-zillion dollar endeavor that is supposed to bring the area of the southeast hinterlands into the 21st century, stem the flow of rural to urban migration AND piss off Iraq and Syria all at the same time. The President of the project, who took time out of his schedule to meet with us in his office (a schedule which included face time with the President of Syria the day before), and this woman, whose questions we save because they’re worth writing down, asks the following question: Could you tell us a little about the knick-knacks on your desk? (You think I’m kidding? I wish…)

Then we have our hyper-Christian who refused to set foot in one of the mosques in Northern Cyprus because it had originally been a church and she couldn’t bear the idea of sanctioning that kind of desecration (given that the Ottomans have been gone for nearly a century, one wonders exactly how her entrance could be construed as sanctioning anything). She has no filter between cerebrum and tongue and has absolutely no ability to tell when she’s asking inappropriate questions – of any one at any time. Given that I brought Ray to our last dinner in Austin, I’m sure you can imagine some of the conversations the two of us have had. This morning we had a faculty member from the Department of Theology at Ankara University speak to us on Islam and she sat and wrote postcards the whole time. I repeat – why, exactly, are these people here? Oy, vay.

At any rate. I have enjoyed Ankara fully, cult of Atatürk and all. Ankara is just a bit too familiar – last night at dinner in a restaurant in an old Ottoman house on top of a hill overlooking the city, I was struck by a wave of homesickness and a realization that despite the fact that it feels like I’ve been gone forever, there’s still a long way to go before we’re done. I’m game, but tonight I plan to go to bed really early. Even the most ardent and enthusiastic of us need to vent and keep to ourselves for a little while from time to time.

Off to Cappadocia in the morning. Sorry to leave Ankara (sorrier still to try to figure out how to get all that stuff in my suitcase again), but happy to move on all the same…

Cyprus

Tuesday, June 29th, 2004

Nicosia [GP:Nicosia], Cyprus. Sunny, 36 degrees.

Well, I’m here and adjusting to life as part of a group (a very, very, very tired group expected to make an appearance at a reception in nary half an hour).

Lots of adjustments today. Adjustments to being away from home – unexpected homesickness and single-dom (even if temporary). Adjustments to the way things work again – no toilet paper in the toilet, for example. Adjustment to things I was really never used to in the first place – my shower has no cold water during the day unless one lets the water run for a long time because the supply pipes run across the roof, and in midday that means that the water is near scalding. Adjustments to the way life runs here.

Nicosia is a nice town. It’s small, fashionable, desperately trying to be somewhere and everywhere else. It’s much more Anglified than Greece, which is probably a rather silly statement given that Cyprus used to be a British colony. The Cyprus accent has thrown me for a complete loop. During our layover in Athens I was very proud of myself for understanding a very large chunk of what was being said around me – the crash coursing I did before I left paid off. Then we got on the plane in Athens to come to Larnaca and there were a group of young Cypriot boys being obnoxious in front of us, and I thought for a moment that they were Spanish, or possibly even Brazilian, because I simply could not understand a thing they were saying. The old woman next to me – a yiayia from Kavala (in the north of Greece, near Thessaloniki) clued me in, but admitted that it was really hard even for her to understand the Cypriot dialect sometimes. So far, in wandering in the old city, MY accent has confused people, including a poor waitress who didn’t understand the phrase “Mia ‘stimgi” (One moment) when trying to take our order. Her boss got it, she didn’t. Also, Ohi (no) is pronounced O’i here. Weird. Very weird. I think that Ioli – our Fulbright program officer – had lulled me into a false sense of security because her accent is much more mainland-ish.

At any rate. During our wanderings in the old city this evening, we found the “lookover” point along the Green Line, which bisects the old city – and Nicosia, and indeed the rest of the country – between the Turkish north and the Greek south. Amidst stern warnings not to take photographs for venture past a certain point (why is not specified, although I have a creepy feeling it involves land mines) is the eerie vista of a street that has been left untouched since October 1974. Inside the now dirty windows of the abandoned shops, one can imagine shelves still stocked and desks with papers in place, waiting for their owners to come back. Despite the recent changes, there is still a great amount of animosity over the events of the past. Nowhere is this more evident than in the giant flag of the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus, landscaped cleverly into the side of a mountain overlooking Nicosia. It’s the first thing one sees coming up the highway from Larnaca and the south, and is a constant reminder that this peaceful holiday destination has more than its fair share of skeletons in the closet.

 

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