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About Ramblings of a Hopeless Khowaga

Welcome to my Web site. My name is Chris, and I’ll be your host. I\'m an opinionated, snarky, gay academic with a predilection for the history, the Arab world, languages, photography, food, and music. I live in Austin, Texas. You can read more about me, learn 100 random things about me, and if you’re wondering what the heck a khowaga is, click here. Feel free to browse, read, and leave comments!

Tag: ‘istanbul’



Notes from 25,000 feet

Thursday, July 2nd, 2009

Currently on a Turkish Airlines Airbus A320 en route from Istanbul to Izmir, the third largest city in Turkey and a major port along the Aegean coast.

We arrived yesterday afternoon after what was, all things considered, not a bad flight over from Chicago.  I’m traveling with a group I put together — Chris from work is along for the ride, along with ten teachers, eight from the Austin area, one from Dallas and one from Houston.  Most of us met at the airport in Austin and flew together up to Chicago.

I’ve defended O’Hare on a few occasions, stating outright that I’ve never had any real problems connecting through, and this continued to be the case.  This should not be confused with the concept that connecting to international flights at O’Hare is actually easy.  The international terminal — Terminal 5 — can only be reached on the airport train, which requires exiting the secure area and going through security once again when you get there.

And frankly, for an international terminal, they ought to be ashamed of themselves.  The only source of food is before security, so for those looking at their watches and the long line at the three security lines, it’s a choice between food and wondering if you’ll make your flight on time.  It took nearly 45 minutes for us to get through, and to say the TSA folks were rude would be an understatement.  I accidentally forgot to empty the water bottle that I carry with me (it’s refillable – I carry it through security empty and then fill it at a water fountain so that I don’t have to pay airport prices for a 12 oz bottle of water to carry on the plane).  The guy working security waved it at me.

“Oh, it’s water,” I said.  “I’m sorry, just go ahead and dump it out.”
A burly officer with a shaved head who struck me as ex-military came up, snatched it from the other guy, and practically yelled at me, “No, I’m going to take you back through and you can dump it.”  He meant it, too.  He was willing to let me wait for someone else in the group to come through so that I could leave my stuff with them, but got impatient.

“Where are they?” he snapped.
“They’re still waiting to come through.”
“Well, I’ll just take it out there and give it to one of them to dump,” he said, and stalked off.

Welcome to America, ladies and gents.  Don’t let the door hit you in the ass on the way out.

Once we got to the gate and checked in with Turkish Airlines, we got another nasty surprise: we were all in middle seats.  And the plane was full.  I boarded in a bit of dread, but I have to say that if you’re going to get stuck in the middle seat on an 11 hour flight, there are worse places to do it than on a Turkish Airlines A340.  They’ve got a little more leg room than most other carriers I’ve flown on (on the plane where I’m sitting at this moment, I could get out to the aisle without bothering either of my aisle mates), and that fun AVOD system where you can while the flight away watching really bad movies on demand (After sleeping most of the way across the Atlantic, I finally chose Confessions of a Shopaholic over Bride Wars).  Although flights that long can never be described as “short,” I didn’t spend the last four hours wanting to get off the plane by any means necessary, like I have on some other airlines *coughDeltacough*.

We were met at the airport in Istanbul by some folks from Austin from the organization that’s hosting us — I’d been a bit nervous because I didn’t have any information about that, and so when we walked into the arrivals hall there was a moment of truth, so to speak.  Ironically, it turned out that they were getting worried about us, because it took over an hour from the time the plane landed for us to get through the long line for visas, then passport control, and then for the luggage to arrive.  “We were starting to wonder if something had happened … ”

We were taken to our hotel in Istanbul, which may be in the old city in the sense that it’s within the old city walls, but there’s nothing particularly old about the neighborhood where the hotel is located.  It is, however, on a quiet side street, which I appreciate.  We went out for a quick dinner, which lasted exactly as long as I could deal with, then back to the hotel for bed.

We had an early wakeup call, but I woke up early (4:15).  I guess jetlag will be with me for a few days, but right now … granted, it’s still 7:45 am … I’m feeling OK.  We have a long day in Izmir, visiting Ephesus and Selcuk, and then we’re flying on down the coast to Antalya tonight.  At that point, I’ll be ready for a good night’s sleep.

And now, I’m getting the usual warning about putting electronics away as we’re on our descent into Izmir.  More later …

The Road to Turkey

Tuesday, June 30th, 2009

Waitin’ at the airport in Austin…

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It’s cloudy over Chicago today.

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This is the only pyramid I plan to visit.

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O’Hare at sunset…

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A little Turkish white wine.  (It wasn’t bad, actually).

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On the ground at Istanbul Airport.

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Waiting for luggage (it took forever).

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Just in time for evening rush hour.

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Dinner time!

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Time for bed.  And an early flight down the coast to Izmir — we’ll be back in Istanbul at the end of the week.

Istanbul’da

Tuesday, June 30th, 2009

I have arrived in Istanbul.  If I weren’t so tired right now, I’d take advantage of the internet connection to post photos, but that would involve more effort than I’m willing to expend given that I have to catch a 7 am flight to Izmir tomorrow.  Photos are coming, stay tuned.  But in the meantime … I’m here.

A Moment’s Respite

Friday, June 19th, 2009

It’s literally a quiet day here in the office.  Several people are out–my erstwhile assistant is enjoying a long weekend, as is the current cause of office drama.  The lack of screaming in the hallway is a nice change — it’s hard to explain when you’re having a meeting with people from outside the department.

But mostly it’s quiet because I’m at a point where I don’t want to start working on things because I’m about to be away from the office for three weeks.  Note that I didn’t say I’m going on vacation for three weeks.  If there’s one thing I can’t quite seem to get certain coworkers to understand, it’s that hauling a group of people around the Middle East is not “vacation.”  I leave in just over a week for Turkey and Egypt.  Egypt was supposed to be vacation, but is no longer.  It’s all good — in exchange for a couple of meetings, my airfare down from Istanbul and my hotel is being covered.  Past that, Egypt is cheap: if you spend more than $15 a day on food, you’re doing something wrong.

So, given that, I’m kind of piddling around this afternoon.

I got a new kerpooter at the office.  It’s a 24″ iMac, and it’s quite zippy.  It boots up in under a minute!  The major drawback is that I get less reading done, what with the not having to wait 5 minutes for Photoshop to load.

At home, we’re dog-sitting my parents’ new dog — they waited too long and the name Brandi (with an i–gag me) has stuck, although they’re calling her Boo.  It doesn’t matter much because she doesn’t actually respond to anything.  Pleas such as “Boo, please stop chewing on the electrical cords,” or “Boo, you are standing on my sunburned shoulders GET OFF GET OFF GET OFF,” fall on completely deaf ears.  She’s not deaf, though.  Any time the fridge opens, she comes running.

One of the things that we’ve been lulled into false security with is that Mocha, at 50 pounds, doesn’t fit in certain places that Boo can go easily–such as under the sofa or through the missing board in the fence that is technically the neighbor’s responsibility to replace.  I pointed out to my father that she doesn’t take direction well.  “You probably have forgotten when Mocha was all arms and legs and would bite everything is sight,” said he.

I wouldn’t say I’ve forgotten.  I’d say I’ve repressed.

Let’s see … what else.  I am almost done with the thirty day challenge on EA Active — Ray had his last day today, mine is tomorrow.  Between that and the dieting, I’m done almost 10 pounds in the last month, and Ray is close to 15.  Yay us!  Now I’ll go to Turkey where meetings come with baklava…

At any rate.  It’s Friday, and I’m ready to go home.  Have a good one, everyone!

12 of 12: January 2009

Monday, January 12th, 2009

12 of 12 was Chad’s idea.  All Hail Chad!

This first 12 of 2009, I find myself in Seoul, South Korea, with my partner Ray and my parents, where we’re visiting my brother who lives here.  We’ve been here almost a week, and so far there have been no injuries or altercations, and everyone is still alive!

9:11 am: Home Sweet Hotel

Jan09-1

Space isn’t at quite the same premium in Korea that it is in Japan, which is not to say that our hotel room is palatial.  Not with the amount of clothing we brought to ward off the cold (and it is cold y’all – yesterday the high was -10 C (around 15 F).  Today was considerably warmer … it got up to -3), and with the tendency toward shopping in markets that Ray and I have.

9:30 am: Coffee and a bagel

Jan09-2

I’m not sure why, but waffles and bagels are all the rage in Seoul.  You can’t go a block without tripping over another coffee-and-waffle/bagel joint.  This one is half a block from our hotel and the four of us can eat for under 20,000 won (roughly $18), which is the cost for a single person at the hotel.  The young lady behind the counter speaks decent English, too, which is a plus because none of the four of us speak Korean.  I’ve made a decent stab at learning part of the alphabet, but … well, let’s just say I can say “hello” and “thank you” and that’s about it.

11:06 am: Seoul Metro

Jan09-3

Kind of a late start today.  We’re off to visit my brother’s school.  He was able to take most of the time that we’re here off, but he had to work this morning so we arranged to come by and see the facility and go from there.

11:37 am: Conveyor Belt Sushi

Jan09-4

We all have our different interests when we travel.  Mom wanted to go by a supermarket just to see what local products are carried.  My brother’s school is in a district called Apugjeong, which our guidebook describes as “the Beverly Hills of Seoul.”  We wound up in the food hall at the Hyundai Supermarket, which I think is a bit like going to the food hall at Harrod’s in Knightsbridge.  It may serve the same function as a supermarket, but the similarity ends there.  Anyway, they had one of these little sushi counters with the conveyor belt, and I couldn’t help making a picture.

12:19 pm: Showing off to Mom

Jan09-5

At the school where my brother works.  Here he’s showing the rosters to mom.  (And, I know it’s probably not PC to point this out, but in case you’re wondering if this is the right photo: my brother was adopted, so, no, there’s no family resemblance, although we did manage to warp him nice and good anyway).

2:09 pm: Shopping!!!

Jan09-6

The pamphlet that the Seoul Tourism Board gives out describes Namdaemun market as “the most vibrant market in all of Asia.”  I question that (I guess technically the Grand Bazaar in Istanbul is on the European side, but I’m pretty sure there’s a few vibrant ones in India and Malaysia and Dubai and … )

But you can purchase pickled ginseng …

Jan09-7

… or all of your Korean dream hunks paraphernalia!

Jan09-8

5:37 pm: Pre-show drink

Jan09-9

Ray and I did pretty well where shopping is concerned.  My brother had made reservations for us at a place called Korea House, which does a traditional Korean meal followed by traditional cultural performance.  Basically, they combine a number of different things together into one show and give you about 10 minutes of each, so that just when you’ve had enough of one, it’s over.  Nice thinking, that.  We stopped in for a drink beforehand.  Hite is a local beer.  It’s cheap, but other than that there’s nothing to recommend it.

6:35 pm: All the pickled stuff you can eat

Jan09-10

8:09 pm: With the performers at Korea House

Jan09-11

Some of my best photos have been taken during cultural performances, but they don’t allow photography at Korea House during the show.  Rats.  Anyway, here’s Ray, Grace (my sister-in-law, for lack of a better term), my brother Lee, and me with some of the girls from the show.

8:34 pm: Seoul Metro

Jan09-12

Heading home.  Tomorrow is an early day for us, as we’re heading to Suwon, one of the suburbs, where there’s a “folk village” and an old fortress.  It’s also supposed to heat up to 0 degrees C (32 F), so we’re gonna break out the suntan lotion!

Happy 12th!

 

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