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About Ramblings of a Hopeless Khowaga

Welcome to my Web site. My name is Chris, and I’ll be your host. I\'m an opinionated, snarky, gay academic with a predilection for the history, the Arab world, languages, photography, food, and music. I live in Austin, Texas. You can read more about me, learn 100 random things about me, and if you’re wondering what the heck a khowaga is, click here. Feel free to browse, read, and leave comments!

Tag: ‘mexico’



Border Issues, or, Return of the Sepulchre Volante

Wednesday, February 25th, 2009

It’s a week after I swore up and down that I was going to make a concerted effort to return to blogging on a more regular basis, and this would be my very first post since then.  The irony is so rich that I could serve it with ice cream.

I have a valid excuse: for the past couple of days, I’ve been on the road down in the Rio Grande Valley.  On Monday, we were conducting training in Edinburg, Texas, and on Tuesday, we were in Laredo:

Map image

I took my camera with me, convinced that photographic opportunities were going to present themselves.  Unfortunately, save for the cemetery that was overrun with balloons (the one that I drove past at a good sixty miles an hour), not much appeared that was photo worthy.

I’ve always enjoyed traveling down to the Valley.  The people we’re down there to train are always unbelievably savvy and actually interested in what we’re there to do (and turn out in good numbers — our session in Edinburg may well have been the largest one we’ve ever done).  The Valley itself is quite unlike anywhere else in the state of Texas, which is another reason why I like going down there.  You drive and drive across miles of ranching land (which, to the naked eye, would appear to be synonymous with “nothingness”) and then, just as you reach the outskirts of the urban areas on either of the two highways that run down there, a most interesting geographic transformation takes place.  All of a sudden, the scrub land gives way to lush, green fields.  Cactus becomes palm trees.  And suddenly, it feels like you’ve managed to drive through a wormhole into south Florida (senior citizens with RVs included).

We’ve done work in Brownsville, Texas, before, which is absolutely the end of the line.  There’s no part of Texas farther south than Brownsville – from that point forward, it’s all Mexico.  This time, we were in Edinburg, about an hour’s drive west. 

Our local contact in Brownsville, with whom we’ve become friendly over the years, used to take us to a restaurant across the border in Mexico.  This trip, however, we didn’t discuss crossing the border.  For one, the passport requirement for land crossings kicked in last month, and I don’t like using my passport to enter the United States because apparently there’s something on my Customs and Border Patrol record that makes immigration officers frown.  Second, and more critically, the situation on the Mexican side of the border is pretty tense at the moment.  The State Department issued a warning last week for Americans traveling in the border region, and a good number of the bridges were shut down due to citizen protests believed to have been orchestrated by one or another of the drug cartels battling for control of the major cities along the US border.

So, after we completed our session in Edinburg and headed north for our first-ever session in Laredo, we did not cross the border and take the more direct and apparently superior Mexico Highway 2 that runs between Reynosa and Nuevo Laredo.  Instead, we took the main highway on this side, US Highway 83.

I wrote many months ago about a trip in a service taxi in Morocco that we’ve since dubbed the “flying coffin.”  The trek on US 83 kind of reminded me of that trip.  It wasn’t that I was pulling up behind semi-trucks and then pulling out blindly into the opposing lane to execute a passing maneuver, as our insane Moroccan driver had done, but it certainly was interesting in a “Aren’t you glad you have Mutual of Omaha?” sort of way.  Vehicles pulled out onto the road (which becomes two lanes after civilization is left behind — which happens very quickly) apparently without regard or interest to whether there was oncoming traffic and whether or not it would have time to slow down.  More than once, I got sweaty palms noticing large vehicles in my lane that were traveling in the opposite direction, in the midst of trying to pass slower vehicles but in no particular hurry to get back over to their own side.

And then there was the omnipresent border patrol.  At nearly every vista where the mostly flat geography was interrupted by a hill that afforded a view toward the border off to our left, there was an SUV from the border patrol parked on the side of the road, apparently full of officers who were, presumably, less interested in illegal immigrants than drug traffickers.

I won’t say that it wasn’t a great relief that we managed to reach the outskirts of Laredo before the sun went down.

Our contact for the next day was a very excitable lady who, while very nice, was also a level of manic that might require medication.  Within two minutes of her arrival in the morning, we had established where we would be having lunch.  She also gleefully told us that there had been so much interest in our session that she had reopened registration the day before — which would have been fine had this not left us going through all of our things hoping for one or two copies of brochures and worksheets so that we wouldn’t find ourselves in the awkward position of telling people that they had to share.  Fortunately, at the end of the day, we managed to scrape by with nearly no extras, but enough things for everyone in the room.

Over lunch, she regaled us with stories of life on the border.  “I won’t go over there,” she said.  “It’s really bad.  I mean, they kidnap Americans for the ransom.  Even though I’m lower middle class, we’ve already figured out that if one of us gets kidnapped, we can count on our friends to raise thirty, forty thousand dollars for ransom for me.”  (How this situation would present itself in light of her first statement was a question none of us wanted to raise.)  She then went on to tell us, “You know, they harvest organs over there.  The media doesn’t report on this stuff, but I know it’s happening.  I mean, if you’re sick and you can find a rich American than no one’s going to miss, you kidnap them and take them to the black market.  Look at any one of you — I mean, you’re young and fit.  They’d take your kidneys without a second thought.”

She then went on to tell us that she really wanted to get a gun.  “A cousin of mine lives in Houston, and she carries, and this one night she was being followed and the car pulled up next to her at a light.  So she took the gun out and put it on the dashboard, and they drove off in a hurry.  So, I want to get one, too.”  Clearly her kidneys depended on it.

And so it was, when I rolled into my driveway last night, with both of my kidneys still firmly in place, that it occurred to me to wonder whether that was an indication that I’m no longer young and fit, and my kidneys aren’t desirable.  Hey, wait a minute!  How come the Laredo cartel doesn’t want my kidneys?  They’re perfectly good! 

Hmph.

Anyway.  That was my last trip for a while.  I’m looking forward to being able to put my feet up and relax this weekend, free of travel plans and hotel rooms and chain restaurants.  The conspiracy theories do make for good blog fodder, though …

Pitfalls

Monday, February 9th, 2009

And so it came to pass that we were sitting at dinner the other night when my partner of eight-and-a-half years casually looked across the table and asked the question that brings at least one half of every couple to a point of sheer and utter panic each and every year:

“So, what are you planning for Valentine’s Day?”

Deer in the headlights look.

“Um … what would you like to do on Valentine’s Day?”

This is the response of partners and spouses everywhere. Let me explain why this reflexive response is very, very bad. First, it just goes to confirm that you haven’t actually made plans yourself. Second, it confirms that you haven’t thought of anything on your own. Third, it attempts to put the onus on the other person, which is really lame to do, particularly when the other person has been clever enough to put the onus on you. You snoozed, you lost. Deal with it. Later. On your own. When no one can see the sweating.

Then, of course, comes the following response, which is dreaded by partners and spouses everywhere: “Whatever you’d like to do. I mean, we don’t actually have to do anything.”

Warning: This is a trap. Selecting the “we don’t have to do anything” option is very, very bad.

As beads of sweat begin to form: “Well, I have some ideas … ”

As a general rule, I’m not a huge follower of the greeting card holidays. Ray is, however, and he tends to express absolute horror when I suggest that a phone call will suffice on Mother’s Day or Father’s Day. “That’s not enough!” he’ll exclaim, and then he’ll point out gifts that are usually about 500% more expensive than I was considering (for all the grief that I give Ray about it, I’m one cheap motherfucker myself).

Which brings us back to Valentine’s Day. I suppose it’s only fitting, given that we didn’t do much for our anniversary. Well, we didn’t actually do anything for our anniversary. It had something to do with the Montezuma’s revenge I brought back from Mexico and my not wanting to look at food.

As for the night sweats, in fact, I do have ideas. I also suspect that they’re going to get blown out of the water in about an hour when the restaurants open for lunch and haughty maitre’ds begin laughing at me hysterically when I ask if they have open reservation times for Saturday night. To my surprise, they didn’t. However, I’m going to keep the final arrangement secret. Bwa ha ha!!

And sweetie? You’re in charge of anniversary plans this year …

Ho Hum.

Tuesday, October 14th, 2008

One of my coworkers IM’ed me this morning. “I’m having an existential crisis,” he said. “I’m three quarters of the way through a degree plan and I realize that I don’t actually want a degree in this field anymore. I don’t want to write anymore papers. I don’t want to muse on why things happen a certain way. I don’t want to be so fucking scared about taking a test because i have no clue what is going on inside the prof’s head.”

“That’s not an existential crisis,” I told him. “It’s senioritis.”

And yet, on reflection, I’m feeling the same way about my job. I have senioritis in my job, and I haven’t been a senior for eight years.

The project that I’ve put over a year of blood, sweat, and tears into — the one that sent me off to Spain and Morocco for one round of meetings in the spring, and to Mexico a month ago for a second round of meetings — is dead in the water. It’s not the best reward for all of the effort we’ve put in, especially because we were so enthusiastic about it. The people we met with were enthusiastic. Everyone was enthusiastic. But no one wants to fund it, and that means it’s pretty much DOA.

All I have to show for our effort are some photos that I shot when we had an hour to run through this palace or that museum.

I’m very much a person who runs on momentum. When things are zipping along, I ride the wave of energy. But when things are at a lull, I’m not always the one who picks up the ball and runs with it.

It doesn’t help that everyone around here seems to be alternately harried and dragging. We’ve grown too large lately and … well, I won’t say I told you so. I’ll just tell you all that I did.

I know that I can get back in the groove. I just don’t know how right now.

‘Tis a puzzlement.

12 of 12: September 2008 (the Hurricane Ike edition)

Saturday, September 13th, 2008

Welcome to the Very Special Hurricane Ike edition of 12 of 12!  Not to make fun of what looks like it’s going to be a very serious storm, but Ike has played into my day in more ways than one, as I’ll relate below.

3:45 am: Sadly, this is not a trick photo.  I began this 12th in Veracruz, Mexico:

I was in Mexico for a little over a week on business, beginning in Mexico City, then to the colonial city of Puebla, on to the town of Xalapa–capital of the state of Veracruz–and finally to the port city of Veracruz on the Gulf of Mexico.  The temperature moved from the 20s in Mexico City and Puebla, to the high 30s in Veracruz (where the humidity was about 8000%).

The stay in Veracruz was stressful, not least because of the heat, but mostly because of the conflicting reports we were getting about Hurricane Ike.  There is only one flight out of Veracruz to the US each day (it leaves at 6:50 am, hence the crack-of-way-before-dawn wakeup shown above), on Continental Airlines to Houston. At a meeting on Tuesday afternoon in Xalapa, it was brought to our attention that Ike was aiming for Houston and that a couple of people from the University that we were meeting with had either postponed or bumped up their travel to the US in order to avoid the hurricane.

On Wednesday evening, I spent 20 minutes on hold with Continental Airlines’ reservations number on Mexico City.  Our meeting in Veracruz had fallen through and we were ready, able, and willing to leave on the Thursday flight if there was space.  There wasn’t.  However, I was told that the storm was scheduled to hit Houston on Saturday morning and that the airline was planning normal ops on Friday, so we should have no problem getting home.

4:15 am: Double checking

On Thursday morning, thus liberated, we did a bit of sightseeing in Veracruz until we couldn’t stand the heat anymore and went back to our hotel.  I checked my e-mail (which was only available in the courtyard of the hotel, which was hotter than blue blazes), and then went to my room with the intention of participating in the time honored tradition of taking a siesta.  Before I could, however, Natalie knocked at my door, laptop in hand.  “The storm sped up,” she said.  “Continental is planning to shut down its operations in Houston at noon.”

Over the course of the afternoon, I spent 400 pesos (~$40) recharging my cell phone while we tried to call Continental in Mexico City, but by that point the number was constantly ringing busy.  I contacted a coworker in the office, who called the university travel agent, who reported back that the flight out of Veracruz was still scheduled to operate, but that our connecting flight to Austin was looking “iffy.”  We went through a number of scenarios, but the only one that involved getting home before Monday was a contingency rental car reservation waiting for us in Houston just in case.

By the evening, our connection was definitely cancelled, and Natalie called her friend Paola to ask her to call the travel agent and tell them to call us in Mexico.  Paola is from Buenos Aires, and you don’t argue with a portena.  We were rebooked on a 1 pm flight to Austin, which made us both nervous because Continental still had a big notice on its Web site declaring that it was probably going to shut down Houston at noon.

4:40 am: waiting for the airport to open

So, we left our hotel at 4:20 am and headed to Veracruz Airport, keeping our fingers crossed.  What would have been nice to know, however, is that the airport doesn’t open for business until at least 5 am.  We sat around in the lobby, waiting for the ticket agents to show up (and start working), then had to sit around again waiting for the security agents to show up … and start working.

7:17 am: Sunrise over the Gulf

The flight left on time, and, not having gotten a lot of sleep last night, I napped most of the way to Houston.  The flight was rather smooth given the large hurricane out in the Gulf, although it did get a little bumpy toward Houston.

8:40 am: There’s a hurricane out there …

It was sunny in Houston when we landed, although from the air the edges of the storm (as above) were clearly visible.

8:50 am: Ghost Town Airport

Houston airport was a ghost town, hardly the bustling place that it normally is on a Friday morning.  We managed to get through US Customs quickly, by which point the luggage from our flight had not only circulated but been pulled off the conveyor.  At the recheck point, I asked if there was a chance we might make an earlier flight to Austin, knowing there was one scheduled for 10:10.  To our delight, the agent was quite enthusiastic about getting us on the earlier flight, handed us our new boarding passes, re-tagged the luggage, and sent us on our way to the next security checkpoint.

9:33 am: Bad day to fly

10:24 am: Clouds move in

It had been clear when we landed from Veracruz, but an hour and a half later, the first bands of clouds have covered Houston, extending almost halfway to Austin.

10:59 am: Waiting for luggage

And so, earlier than we had originally hoped, we were back in Austin, and once again the luggage was circulating by the time we got to baggage claim.

12:09 pm: Did you miss me?

I have a feeling that the sandwich on my lap had something to do with this…

5:20 pm: Storm clouds

After … well, I’ll be honest: it wasn’t a power nap, so much as trying to make up for the few hours of sleep I got last night.  Ray and I went out to remove the light objects from the back yard so that they wouldn’t blow around if the hurricane came out way after making landfall in the middle of the night.

5:20 pm: My shadow

Mocha has been following me around since I got home.  I think she might have missed me ;)

We’re keeping our fingers crossed for friends in Houston and Galveston–it looks like it’s gonna be nasty.

Anniversary

Wednesday, September 10th, 2008

I´m still in Mexico–today I´m in Xalapa, whose charms are … not readily apparent.  The people are nice, but we got a couple of enthusiastic responses when we mentioned that we were coming to Xalapa, and so far?  We just don´t get it.

At the south end of the island

Today is Ray´s and my anniversary–eight years!  It´s a bit weird being out of town–between all the people that I´m meeting with and their schedules, these were the only dates this trip could happen.  I have, however, already made dinner reservations for Friday night after, Hurricane Ike permitting, I get home. 

Happy anniversary, sweetie!  I wuv oo!

 

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