Amazon.com Widgets
I’m not mad.  Really.

About Ramblings of a Hopeless Khowaga

Welcome to my Web site. My name is Chris, and I’ll be your host. I live in Austin, Texas, with my partner, Ray, and our child dog, Mocha. You can read more about me, learn 100 random things about me, and if you’re wondering what the heck a khowaga is, click here. Feel free to browse, read, and leave comments!

Tag: ‘middle-east’



Day Six: Sleepless in Rabat

Tuesday, June 14th, 2011

I am sitting in the courtyard of a converted villa in the swank Souissi district of Rabat, the capital of Morocco, where it is a perfectly pleasant 78 degrees. The courtyard villa is now a language center, and the group is currently taking an introductory language course wherein they are learning the Arabic alphabet. Good for them.

We arrived Sunday … Good grief, was that really just two days ago? … Into Casablanca. The airport was a little dumpier than I remembered it from my last visit three years ago. The customs agent was thrilled that I spoke Arabic and gave me my first language test of the trip:

“Where did you learn Arabic?”
“Egypt,” says I.
“Do you love Egypt?” he asked.
“I do,” says I, “bhebbha kteeran
“Morocco,” he informed me, “is better than Egypt.”

We shall see.

Yesterday was our first full day in Rabat. For the first two weeks that we’re in country, we’ll be here in the capital, a pleasant seaside city of two million. Mornings are taken up with language classes, and afternoons involve lectures and site visits.

As one of the two people in the group with Arabic language training, I’m not in the intro class that was arranged. After a placement test that pretty much used every ounce of my jet lagged brain, I had a long discussion with the placement coordinator. Essentially, it boils down to this: my spoken Arabic is near perfect, but my written grammar is terrible – I flat out forgot how to construct active and passive participles. So, for the next couple of days I’m sitting in on one of the intermediate classes where they’re doing that stuff, and next week I’ll start a class on the Moroccan dialect, which is what I really wanted to do.

The dynamics of language are quite different here than in Egypt. I had been told that Arabic speaking foreigners are somewhat rare in Morocco, which seems odd given the number of foreigners who come here to study. The dining room staff doesn’t know what to do with me, and are more happy to seek discussion with the members of the group who speak French, especially the maitre’d who quite visibly sneered the first evening when I tried to ask him for something in Arabic.

The maids, on the other hand, think I am the best thing ever. They keep stopping me in the hallway to engage me in conversation and it generally takes me forever to dash the few feet from my room to the elevator.

I have photos – quite a few from last evening’s visit to the Chellah (an historic site not too far from the hotel), but I’m on my iPad at the moment and haven’t really had a chance to go through and sort out the good ones. So, stay tuned.

So far the group seems to be doing well. I still haven’t decided if one particular member is eccentric or crazy, but she is, at least, crazy in a non offensive way.

And that’s all for now. More dispatches later…

Take Time to Smell the Java

Thursday, May 1st, 2008

Yet another friend from the bloggerverse has done the unthinkable: Brian is giving up coffee.  (Well, specifically, he’s giving up Starbucks, but that’s his main/only source of coffee at the moment so it pretty much works out the same.)

I’ve done this before — at the urging of my boss, who is something of an amateur medical … adviser guy … who had gone on at length (repeatedly) about how drinking caffeine dehydrates you, and it’s much healthier for you to not drink caffeine, yadda yadda yadda.

In point of fact, it’s not the caffeine that does the dehydrating – it’s the fact that lots of people get their caffeine in the form of overly sugared iced teas, sodas, and beverages both hot and cold that may contain some sort of coffee product, but are not actually coffee, all of which will dehydrate you.

I gave up the stuff and endured massive headaches for a week and a half, and then promptly went to the Middle East on a business trip, where coffee and/or tea brewed to the consistency of coffee is served at every meeting, refusing would be an insult, and decaf is an alien concept.  So much for decaffeinating.

However, it does bring to mind that I think we’re now missing the actual point of coffee.  Coffee was never meant to be served in a paper or styrofoam cup and slurped down hurriedly on the way between point A and point B.

Indeed, the ritual of serving coffee to guests, as I’ve experienced more than a few times in the Middle East, is a way of both welcoming them and making sure that they’re not going to run off and leave after just dawdling for a minute or two.  The serving of coffee is a way of saying, “Sit down and get comfortable, you’re going to be here for a while.”

At the court of Zanzibar, one of the most highly valued of the palace slaves was the coffee bearer. Princess Salme Seyyed recorded in her memoir:

Half an hour after the [meal] eunuchs handed round genuine Mocha in tiny cups resting on gold or silver saucers …The coffee is poured out immediately prior to consumption, which task requires such skill that only few servants are fitted for it.

The coffee-bearer carries the handsome pot, made of tin adorned with brass, in his left hand, while in his right he holds only a single small cup and saucer. Behind or next to him an assistant carries a tray with empty cups and a large reserve pot of coffee. If the company has dispersed, these men have to follow the various members, and insure their partaking of the delicious beverage.

How highly coffee is esteemed by the Orientals, everybody knows. The greatest care being bestowed upon its preparation, it is specially roasted, ground, and boiled whenever wanted, and therefore is always taken perfectly fresh. Roasted beans are never kept, nor boiled coffee, either, when in the least degree stale, being then thrown away or given to the lower servants….

In 1729, Johann Sebastian Bach wrote an entire Coffee Cantata.  At that time, not only was coffee a pleasure of the flesh, it was downright evil:

Schlendrian: “You wicked child, you disobedient girl!  When will I get my way?  Give up coffee!”

Lieschen: “Father, don’t be so severe! If I can’t drink my bowl of coffee three times daily, then in my torment I will shrivel up like a piece of roast goat.  [Aria] Mmm!  How sweet the coffee tastes, more delicious than a thousand kisses, mellower than muscatel wine.  Coffee, coffee I must have, and if someone wishes to give me a treat, ah, then pour me out some coffee!”

Schlendrian: “If you don’t give up drinking coffee then you shan’t go to any wedding feast, nor go out walking.  Oh!  When will I get my way?  Give up coffee!”

Lieschen: “Oh, well!  Just leave me my coffee!”

Schlendrian: “Now I’ve got the little minx! I won’t get you a whalebone skirt in the latest fashion.”

Lieschen: “I can easily live with that.”

Schlendrian: “You’re not to stand at the window and watch people pass by!”

Lieschen: “That as well, only I beg of you, leave me my coffee!”

How many people would do that for Starbucks, d’you think?

So, if you’re a slave to the bean like I am, take a moment the next time you have a cup in hand to savor it the way it was meant to be: for the sake of its own character and being. Not as something idly sipped while reading the funnies, the latest stupid forward from that annoying friend who can’t be bothered to send a personal message, or in the car on the way to work. There’s a long tradition behind you, and you wouldn’t want to break centuries of tradition, now would you?

Now, if you’ll excuse me, for some reason I hear a New Guinea dark roast calling my name … :wink:

Random Round-Up

Thursday, April 26th, 2007

I saw a few news items that made me think/laugh/cry/roll my eyes, so I collected them all and put them here in a handy concise format for you. Here goes:

Egypt’s Dr. Ruth: Muslims Need More Sex
I love this article: an overeducated housewife in Cairo has become the Arab world’s first self-styled ‘sexologist,’ using passages from the Qur’an to tell men they gotta give their women more lovin’. Her television show — three years in the making — is one of the most popular programs on Egyptian TV and is spreading throughout the Arab world.

My favorite bit: “… for the men she has some blunt advice: ‘You have to have foreplay with your wife and you have to have sex with her frequently, not just when you want to.’” Tough words for a culture that likes its men manly and its women womanly, especially from a veiled lady quoting the Qur’an. Take that, Osama!

Could you imagine a sex show on one of the Christian networks in the US? (“Now, honey, when your husband wants it, you just gotta lie back and think of Jesus and how he suffered.”)

Where did Trinny and Susannah Go?
I caught one of the new episodes of BBC’s What Not to Wear last night, and … who the hell is that? Where did Trinny and Susannah go? I like Trinny and Susannah … I don’t like these two new ladies on the show. Ugh. Not. At. All.


It’s funny because it’s true.

I’m so irritated with the Democrats — yes, that’s right, you heard me. I’m a liburl, I’m a Democrat, and I really just want to bonk Nancy Pelosi and Harry Reid’s heads together. After bitching nonstop for SIX YEARS about how the Bush administration is forging ahead without taking the time to consider what they’re doing, the Democrats are doing the EXACT SAME THING. Apparently because Pelosi and Reid think that we can fix Iraq and get out in six months, that makes it so. Hmm. I wonder how much research went into that discovery.

Hey, guys? Here’s a hint: ask the Iraqis. You remember them? The ones we’re supposedly there to help? Is any of this ringing a bell? Any of it? … I didn’t think so …

Ugh. Politicians!! Impeach them all, I say.

The Dow went over 13,000
I know that people are, like, creaming their pants over this, but the dollar almost simultaneously hit a 2-year low against the Euro which means I still can’t afford to go to Europe on vacation, AND gas is now projected to hit $4 a gallon this summer, so explain to me why this is such a big deal? Is it because economists otherwise never get to have sex?

The Last Word
Thanks to the latest scientific research, I now know for sure that my dog loves me.

Ray and I are, naturally, now going to start arguing over who the dog loves more …

It’s Thursday. I hope you’re having a good one, wherever you are.

And the mud just keeps on slingin’

Friday, January 26th, 2007

It’s a bright, sunny Friday here in Austin – the type of weather that we’ve had precious little of recently – and I’m sitting at my desk that overlooks the courtyard of the school of architecture building with its red clay Mediterranean tiles … and I’m trying very hard not to fume.

This morning’s edition of the university ‘newspaper,’ the Daily Texan (alternative punny names include: the Daily Toxin, the Nearly Ticking, etc.) featured an interesting article about the department that I work for. I say that it was interesting because it is an object of interest to be studied and dissected, not because the article was actually well-written and factual.

To sum up the point that the article is trying to make and never quite succeeds with: the department that I work for has limited funding to bring in speakers and outside academics for special events, and a decision was made by the combined faculty and department administration nearly a decade ago that we weren’t going to waste that limited funding by paying to bring in speakers who were essentially spokespeople for a particular political group or organization — in other words, people who would show up and propagandize, and would not be open to having an in-depth, objective discussion about whatever issue it was that they wanted to speak about. We’re not opposed to these people coming to campus to speak, but we view lectures and symposia as ways to supplement the existing academic resources that we already have, and it was decided that these sorts of things would be counterproductive to that goal.

There’s also a political factor: if we bring in a speaker for this group who espouses this viewpoint, are we then obligated to bring in a speaker from a different group who espouses the opposite viewpoint? Why bring them in at all when we can arrange a roundtable or panel with people who aren’t restricted in what they’re allowed to say in public and have a real discussion about the topic? It seems simple enough, and, frankly, it’s kind of a non-issue. I’ve been here frighteningly close to a decade and I can’t honestly recall that anyone has ever challenged the policy or spoken out against it. I don’t even remember hearing anyone complain about it — and my office is in a position (and my penchant for gossip notorious enough) that I would have heard about it if someone did.

As far as Middle Eastern Studies departments go, we are one of the few in the country that hasn’t imploded with infighting among faculty, staff, and students along the usual lines (pro-Israeli vs. pro-Palestinian; pro-U.S. foreign policy vs. anti-U.S. foreign policy, etc.). Our folks actually get along with each other. We’re actually kind of proud of that fact.

And then there was this lovely article in the paper this morning which stops just short of suggesting that we’re stifling debate. Added to this mix are a number of quotes from an infamous professor of communication who is the sort of left wing activist who makes other left wing activists uncomfortable – the sort of guy who is so far to the left that he’s practically traveled around the sphere and met the extreme right coming in the other direction. He’s on just about every neo-conservative list of the most dangerous academics in America. And, interestingly enough, he is not associated with my department in any way, shape, or form. I’m not sure he’s ever even been in the same building. But you sure as heck wouldn’t know that by reading this article.

I don’t know the young lady who wrote the article. I do, however, know several of the people who were quoted in the article. I’ve been copied on a number of e-mails distributed among them this morning. And here’s the thing that really got me worked up when I started seeing the messages exchanged. The Daily Texan is, of course, covered under the freedom of press clauses, and they can write what they wish. Being in the field of Middle Eastern Studies, I am used to controversy and lots of accusations slung around – it sort of goes with the territory.

What gets me, though, is that the young lady who wrote this article contacted one of the prominently quoted students and told him they wanted to talk about the student run film series. The poor guy thought he was being interviewed for a feature article about an upcoming series of films about diaspora in the Middle East. He was downright shocked when he opened the paper this morning and saw himself prominently quoted in an article about the department – and one that wasn’t supposed to be terribly positive, at that (I’m not actually sure the writer succeeded on that front. We were all scratching our heads trying to figure out what the main point of the article was supposed to be).

He’s since written to the editors of the Texan — in language far more diplomatic than I would have used — but I have little hope that his letter will ever warrant any sort of response from the editorial staff, nor will it ever actually be published in the Letters to the Editor column.

I guess they’re not teaching ethics in journalism anymore — at least not here in the hallowed halls of the University of Texas. I am, however, fairly certain that the young lady who wrote the article has a very promising career in journalism ahead of her. She certainly seems to have mastered all the skills necessary to get people to say whatever you want them to for the sake of a good story.

After all is said and done

Saturday, January 6th, 2007

I have avoided comment on that which came to pass in Baghdad last Saturday morning, in part because if I live to be 100 I will still be trying to get the image of Saddam swinging in the wind out of my head. It was one of those things I wasn’t quite prepared to see as I sat here in my home office chair in my underwear, checking my e-mail and the headlines first thing in the morning before going to start a cup of coffee in the brewer. So far, I have managed not to see the Neck Snap Heard Round the World, and I’d like to keep it that way.

Da Prez finally weighed in on the execution – it took him until Thursday. Now, let’s see: Princess Diana died on a Saturday night, and the Queen didn’t speak about it until Friday — so, I guess she’s still ahead on that one. Does this mean we won’t have to wait as long for a film called The Deciderer in which we get to see action shots of Bush in bed snoring loudly while his archenemy gets the drop and then plot his course through the week in Crawford until he decides he needs to say something about it? Surely Helen Mirren will make a great Laura Bush …

I hate to agree with The Deciderer on anything, but I, too, am troubled by the swiftness of the execution. It reeks of foreign policy by Ann Coulter: “We should invade their countries [check], kill their leaders [check], and convert them to Christianity [wouldn't surprise me if there were missionaries there right now].”

It also makes me wonder how they’re going to hold the umpteen trials for the other charges against him: are they going to pull an Evita and embalm him so that he can still be in the courtroom? And then hang him again and again each time the verdict comes back guilty? (Didn’t they do that with Cromwell?)

For the record: Saddam was probably one of the worst human beings who ever lived, and I certainly have no sympathy for the man. But he’s a political figurehead in a country in the midst of a civil war (sorry, we’re not supposed to talk about that) and heaven knows people love their figureheads. And they’re certainly bigger fans of figureheads who die in circumstances when fans of the opposing team are right there on film shouting opposition slogans. Maybe keeping him alive — at least through his remaining trials — wouldn’t have been such a bad thing in a volatile environment like Iraq when its inthe midst of civil war. Oh, well. Too late now.

I read with amusement this morning that Egyptian President Hosni Mubarak has decried the execution of Saddam Hussein as “disappointing” and questioned its timing. It’s worth noting that he said it in an Israeli newspaper, so he probably felt that this was a really profound statement to offer.

The Big Man (read The Yacoubian Building) is probably motivated by his usual “I’m still the voice of the Arab world” mentality, a problem that Egypt’s leaders always suffer from. Mubarak desperately wishes he were King Hussein – despite the King’s flaws, he had a magnetic presence about him that made people sit up and take note. King Hussein could ramble on for hours about absolutely nothing, and make you feel like you’d witnessed some profound event. When Mubarak speaks, people sit up and start wondering what he’s using to keep his hair jet black.

To be fair, though, Mubarak is probably equally as distressed by the idea that the baddies in the Arab world are slowly being deposed, picked off, or functionally castrated, and sooner or later someone’s going to notice that Egypt ain’t so democratic either and it just might be his turn — after all, this is a quote from the man who is grooming his son to become president after him.

The Arab world is in a sorry state right now as it is. There are two civil wars under way (Iraq and Palestine — and the only reason that the West Bank and Gaza don’t look like Iraq right now is because they can still agree that they hate the Israelis more than they hate each other, although they’ve come frighteningly close to moving beyond that in recent weeks), an almost civil war (Lebanon), a couple of repressive regimes that keep their opposition in check but would explode without lots of pressure from the top down (Egypt and Syria), a hybrid nation that by all logic ought to have imploded decades ago (Jordan), and don’t let’s even get started on the petrolarchies of the Persian Gulf.

Anyway. At this point, I am completely rambling and have gotten off of topic, but there’s some thoughts about the state of the world this morning. Saddam’s gone. We’re shocked, but we don’t miss him. And there are a lot of nervous people out there wondering who’s going to be next. That’s all I’m saying.

 

Blog Theme by LJP & SLR Lounge