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About Ramblings of a Hopeless Khowaga

Welcome to my Web site. My name is Chris, and I’ll be your host. I live in Austin, Texas, with my partner, Ray, and our child dog, Mocha. You can read more about me, learn 100 random things about me, and if you’re wondering what the heck a khowaga is, click here. Feel free to browse, read, and leave comments!

Tag: ‘restaurants’



What’s in a Burger?

Sunday, May 3rd, 2009

OK, this post is a little bit of an experiment.  I’ve been meaning to expand my genre writing, by which I mean, “posting about things other than whatever rant I have parked in the back of my head at the moment.” This, by the way, has nothing to with our friend Lee, who started up a food-and-restaurant blog a couple of months ago and has already managed to score invitations to all sorts of closed-door events they seem to hold just for people who blog about food.  Really.

I’ve feared for a while that Ray and I are stuck in a restaurant rut whenever we go out, because, well, we are.  So, when I was at Costco last weekend, I discovered the second edition of Fearless Critic’s guide to Austin restaurants, and I decided to buy it because … well, sometimes I’m in the mood for Thai food and pho just won’t serve as a decent substitute.  (According to the Guide, the situation is more grave for those seeking Italian.)

Friday evening, Ray had managed to score us tickets to Death Cab for Cutie’s show at Austin Music Hall (and I do mean score – the tix were for the VIP section.  Working for evil corporations does sometimes have its perks).  After I got home from work, we headed downtown where I similarly managed to score a parking spot at a meter barely three blocks from the venue.  For those unfamiliar with Austin, this is in the heart of the Warehouse District, where meters–which stop working at 5:30 pm–are now nearly impossible to find, and most lots and open parking surfaces have been co-opted by the Ethiopian Mafia, which charges a flat rate for the evening that increases by the hour – $5 if you get there early, but as much as $10 or $15 if you try to arrive around peak clubbing time.

Where this is all going is that we wound up stopping for a bite to eat at Hut’s Hamburgers, a local institution that I’ve never actually been to before.  We had walked past a series of restaurants overflowed with the Young and the Pretty, not that we don’t enjoy that scene … mainly for the viewing … but we didn’t time our arrival downtown well to have enough time to wait out a table and still get to the show on time.  In the midst of a Friday afternoon around 6:45 pm, Hut’s was able to seat us right away.

Perhaps this was a sign.  Perhaps it was just because Hut’s doesn’t have a patio or a huge selection of alcoholic beverages beyond beer, and is therefore not a popular destination for after-work Happy Hour.

The place is in what appears to be, for all intents and purposes, an old gas station from the 50′s or 60′s.  It’s been a restaurant for several decades, but there’s still something offputting about opening the door to a restaurant that you can’t see inside of.  “What am I getting into?  Will I be able to leave?”  It’s kind of dark inside, and the decor is somewhere between “cute retro” and “hasn’t been cleaned since 1981.”

Hut’s is an unapologetic burger joint, and when you’re at a burger joint you shouldn’t do something stupid, like order a salad.  This is fine.  Ray and I both ordered burgers, and a basket of fries and rings to split.

The burgers all have cute names.  Mine was “The Wolfman Jack,” which comes with too many diced green chiles (canned), sour cream, and bacon that was so limp I could actually fold it.  I’m a bit of a bacon purist – if it bends, it ain’t done.  Ray ordered “Mr. Blue,” with bleu cheese crumbles, swiss cheese and bacon (and lettuce, although he asked them to hold it, much to the satisfaction of the guy who brought the food out and declared lettuce “green water.”)

One of my basic tests for a restaurant is, “Could I have made this at home?”  In the case of the Hut’s burgers, the answer, sadly, was “yes.”  I’ve had better hamburgers.  Sorry, guys.

The french fries were … well, I could fold them, too.  This is not good.  Limp, damp fries are the culinary equivalent of the limp, damp handshake.

The bright spot of the meal were the peppered onion rings.  I was disappointed to see, when the tray arrived, that there were only four onion rings (there’s always a disappointing onion-ring-to-fry ratio whenever you order a combination order).  However, the four that arrived could have been worn as anklets – they were massive, thick, and wonderfully crispy.  Ray questioned whether there was too much onion in the onion rings (ha!), but I quite enjoyed them.

Would I go back to Hut’s just for onion rings?  Oh yeah.  I might be tempted to order another burger, too.  After all, Fearless Critic seems to think they’re great (Hut’s is #3 on the list of burger joints of Austin, after Phil’s Ice House — with which I wholeheartedly agree), and Fearless Critic hates everyone.

Border Issues, or, Return of the Sepulchre Volante

Wednesday, February 25th, 2009

It’s a week after I swore up and down that I was going to make a concerted effort to return to blogging on a more regular basis, and this would be my very first post since then.  The irony is so rich that I could serve it with ice cream.

I have a valid excuse: for the past couple of days, I’ve been on the road down in the Rio Grande Valley.  On Monday, we were conducting training in Edinburg, Texas, and on Tuesday, we were in Laredo:

Map image

I took my camera with me, convinced that photographic opportunities were going to present themselves.  Unfortunately, save for the cemetery that was overrun with balloons (the one that I drove past at a good sixty miles an hour), not much appeared that was photo worthy.

I’ve always enjoyed traveling down to the Valley.  The people we’re down there to train are always unbelievably savvy and actually interested in what we’re there to do (and turn out in good numbers — our session in Edinburg may well have been the largest one we’ve ever done).  The Valley itself is quite unlike anywhere else in the state of Texas, which is another reason why I like going down there.  You drive and drive across miles of ranching land (which, to the naked eye, would appear to be synonymous with “nothingness”) and then, just as you reach the outskirts of the urban areas on either of the two highways that run down there, a most interesting geographic transformation takes place.  All of a sudden, the scrub land gives way to lush, green fields.  Cactus becomes palm trees.  And suddenly, it feels like you’ve managed to drive through a wormhole into south Florida (senior citizens with RVs included).

We’ve done work in Brownsville, Texas, before, which is absolutely the end of the line.  There’s no part of Texas farther south than Brownsville – from that point forward, it’s all Mexico.  This time, we were in Edinburg, about an hour’s drive west. 

Our local contact in Brownsville, with whom we’ve become friendly over the years, used to take us to a restaurant across the border in Mexico.  This trip, however, we didn’t discuss crossing the border.  For one, the passport requirement for land crossings kicked in last month, and I don’t like using my passport to enter the United States because apparently there’s something on my Customs and Border Patrol record that makes immigration officers frown.  Second, and more critically, the situation on the Mexican side of the border is pretty tense at the moment.  The State Department issued a warning last week for Americans traveling in the border region, and a good number of the bridges were shut down due to citizen protests believed to have been orchestrated by one or another of the drug cartels battling for control of the major cities along the US border.

So, after we completed our session in Edinburg and headed north for our first-ever session in Laredo, we did not cross the border and take the more direct and apparently superior Mexico Highway 2 that runs between Reynosa and Nuevo Laredo.  Instead, we took the main highway on this side, US Highway 83.

I wrote many months ago about a trip in a service taxi in Morocco that we’ve since dubbed the “flying coffin.”  The trek on US 83 kind of reminded me of that trip.  It wasn’t that I was pulling up behind semi-trucks and then pulling out blindly into the opposing lane to execute a passing maneuver, as our insane Moroccan driver had done, but it certainly was interesting in a “Aren’t you glad you have Mutual of Omaha?” sort of way.  Vehicles pulled out onto the road (which becomes two lanes after civilization is left behind — which happens very quickly) apparently without regard or interest to whether there was oncoming traffic and whether or not it would have time to slow down.  More than once, I got sweaty palms noticing large vehicles in my lane that were traveling in the opposite direction, in the midst of trying to pass slower vehicles but in no particular hurry to get back over to their own side.

And then there was the omnipresent border patrol.  At nearly every vista where the mostly flat geography was interrupted by a hill that afforded a view toward the border off to our left, there was an SUV from the border patrol parked on the side of the road, apparently full of officers who were, presumably, less interested in illegal immigrants than drug traffickers.

I won’t say that it wasn’t a great relief that we managed to reach the outskirts of Laredo before the sun went down.

Our contact for the next day was a very excitable lady who, while very nice, was also a level of manic that might require medication.  Within two minutes of her arrival in the morning, we had established where we would be having lunch.  She also gleefully told us that there had been so much interest in our session that she had reopened registration the day before — which would have been fine had this not left us going through all of our things hoping for one or two copies of brochures and worksheets so that we wouldn’t find ourselves in the awkward position of telling people that they had to share.  Fortunately, at the end of the day, we managed to scrape by with nearly no extras, but enough things for everyone in the room.

Over lunch, she regaled us with stories of life on the border.  “I won’t go over there,” she said.  “It’s really bad.  I mean, they kidnap Americans for the ransom.  Even though I’m lower middle class, we’ve already figured out that if one of us gets kidnapped, we can count on our friends to raise thirty, forty thousand dollars for ransom for me.”  (How this situation would present itself in light of her first statement was a question none of us wanted to raise.)  She then went on to tell us, “You know, they harvest organs over there.  The media doesn’t report on this stuff, but I know it’s happening.  I mean, if you’re sick and you can find a rich American than no one’s going to miss, you kidnap them and take them to the black market.  Look at any one of you — I mean, you’re young and fit.  They’d take your kidneys without a second thought.”

She then went on to tell us that she really wanted to get a gun.  “A cousin of mine lives in Houston, and she carries, and this one night she was being followed and the car pulled up next to her at a light.  So she took the gun out and put it on the dashboard, and they drove off in a hurry.  So, I want to get one, too.”  Clearly her kidneys depended on it.

And so it was, when I rolled into my driveway last night, with both of my kidneys still firmly in place, that it occurred to me to wonder whether that was an indication that I’m no longer young and fit, and my kidneys aren’t desirable.  Hey, wait a minute!  How come the Laredo cartel doesn’t want my kidneys?  They’re perfectly good! 

Hmph.

Anyway.  That was my last trip for a while.  I’m looking forward to being able to put my feet up and relax this weekend, free of travel plans and hotel rooms and chain restaurants.  The conspiracy theories do make for good blog fodder, though …

Pitfalls

Monday, February 9th, 2009

And so it came to pass that we were sitting at dinner the other night when my partner of eight-and-a-half years casually looked across the table and asked the question that brings at least one half of every couple to a point of sheer and utter panic each and every year:

“So, what are you planning for Valentine’s Day?”

Deer in the headlights look.

“Um … what would you like to do on Valentine’s Day?”

This is the response of partners and spouses everywhere. Let me explain why this reflexive response is very, very bad. First, it just goes to confirm that you haven’t actually made plans yourself. Second, it confirms that you haven’t thought of anything on your own. Third, it attempts to put the onus on the other person, which is really lame to do, particularly when the other person has been clever enough to put the onus on you. You snoozed, you lost. Deal with it. Later. On your own. When no one can see the sweating.

Then, of course, comes the following response, which is dreaded by partners and spouses everywhere: “Whatever you’d like to do. I mean, we don’t actually have to do anything.”

Warning: This is a trap. Selecting the “we don’t have to do anything” option is very, very bad.

As beads of sweat begin to form: “Well, I have some ideas … ”

As a general rule, I’m not a huge follower of the greeting card holidays. Ray is, however, and he tends to express absolute horror when I suggest that a phone call will suffice on Mother’s Day or Father’s Day. “That’s not enough!” he’ll exclaim, and then he’ll point out gifts that are usually about 500% more expensive than I was considering (for all the grief that I give Ray about it, I’m one cheap motherfucker myself).

Which brings us back to Valentine’s Day. I suppose it’s only fitting, given that we didn’t do much for our anniversary. Well, we didn’t actually do anything for our anniversary. It had something to do with the Montezuma’s revenge I brought back from Mexico and my not wanting to look at food.

As for the night sweats, in fact, I do have ideas. I also suspect that they’re going to get blown out of the water in about an hour when the restaurants open for lunch and haughty maitre’ds begin laughing at me hysterically when I ask if they have open reservation times for Saturday night. To my surprise, they didn’t. However, I’m going to keep the final arrangement secret. Bwa ha ha!!

And sweetie? You’re in charge of anniversary plans this year …

Hey, ho, hum

Thursday, February 5th, 2009

I spent the last few days at a conference of my peers, and I probably should be more careful about what I’m going to say, but I don’t want to.

I have a busy month – I will be traveling or working part of every weekend between now and the first weekend in March, and this was the first salvo.  On Sunday, I flew up to an unnamed city in the north.  It doesn’t particularly matter which one it was: as usual, these meetings are held in suburban areas populated by office buildings and chain restaurants.  Except for the trip to and from the airport (which took exactly five minutes and that only because we missed all of the traffic lights), I didn’t go farther than two blocks from the hotel at any point on this trip.

Here’s the way these things work.  You arrive and are escorted to conference registration.  In this case, there was no pre-registration, so for two days we were all walking around with hand-written nametags in a myriad of fluorescent (and frequently unreadable) colors.  Someone in the sponsoring office, a federal agency not known for its sense of humor, had apparently decided to exhibit some personality by buying the pastel colored pack of Sharpie markers.  Note to anyone in the conference planning business: these colors don’t go so well on nametags.

One of the major north/south divides that I have recognized since I moved to Texas from DC has to do with formal attire.  I now chafe at the notion of having to wear a necktie like a ten year old boy in a clip-on.  Northern men love them.  Southern men?  Well, we like not wearing neckties when we can get away with it, and we’re all in favor of considering a nice pair of jeans “formal attire.”  Up north, that doesn’t go over so well. 

And so …

I am firmly of the belief — and in a moment of levity, I actually put this on the evaluation form — that there should be a minimal IQ requirement to attend conferences.  Perhaps that’s a bit extreme.  I think maybe the requirement should be there only if you actually plan to ask a question.

For example: it was revealed that — and, sit down folks, this one’s a shocker — Congress wants to determine whether the money it’s offering up in student aid for foreign language study is actually encouraging students to take jobs where they have to use the foreign language skills that they developed with that aid.  The way some people in the plenary session carried on about this, you’d have thought that Congress wanted to take a sample of each student’s DNA so that they could track their movements by satellite for the rest of their natural life:

*hand goes up*
“Um, so am I to understand that you want us to keep track of these students just because we give them a federally funded scholarship?  Have you considered the privacy violations?  I don’t know if, ethically, I want to be part of this,” said the concerned woman in the front row.

The rest of us rolled our eyes.  You see, what Congress wants is aggregate data: 45% of graduates found relevant employment, 55% did not, or something like that.  There’s no privacy violations in aggregate data.  And, furthermore, we all mumbled to each other, if she didn’t want to be part of it, the rest of us would be more than happy to sacrifice ourselves by taking the money she didn’t want anymore.

Also, we’ve been required to track this stuff for the past fifty years.

Anyway.  I flew back late last night straight into office drama — my favorite.  I had that sort of strange energy today where I was kind of hoping that problem child would engage me directly (all of the drama took place over e-mail), but alas.  The problem child didn’t try to engage me.  I had to be all diplomatic and stuff.  Jeez.

I hope your week is going well!

Thinking out loud … er, in writing

Sunday, January 11th, 2009

I promised some more introspection, so here we go…

Now that we’re over the hump, so to speak, and counting the days until we go home, I’ve finally adjusted to local time.  Go figure.  I still can’t quite figure out how to tell what time it is at home without checking, though – it’s 7:20 am on Monday the 12th here in Seoul, which makes it 4:20 pm Sunday in Austin.  The good news is that I should have one of the coveted top spots on the 12 of 12 list since the 12th will be over here before most people in the US even get started :)

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One of the nagging feelings I’ve had here (alert: change of subject) is that Seoul is, despite the fact that we flew for-flipping-ever to get here, really not that foreign in its feel — at least not to me.  Most of the city is new, and we’re staying in one of the newer districts.  The buildings are new, and the streets are wide enough to accommodate vehicular traffic and laid out in a grid pattern.  Granted, they’re not wide enough to accommodate the vast amounts of vehicular traffic that clogs them daily, but they’re further along than, say, one of the European capitals.

I suppose this has to do with the tragic history of the peninsula: it was occupied by the Japanese from 1910-1945, then Seoul itself was conquered (and nearly destroyed) by the northern armies in the early days of the Korean war, and had to be retaken by the southern and allied commands.  Hence, most of the city looks like it’s been built since the 1950s – in other words, it’s the architectural counterpart of Amman or Riyadh.  A little less utilitarian than the former, a little less glitzy than the latter.  With trees.

We went up to the DMZ on Friday – this being my second visit to a country artificially divided in two – and, despite the fact that our tour guide’s English was barely competent (and I’m being really nice there), it was still a bit of a powerful experience to walk out into the large common area where North and South meet.  Soldiers from the opposing forces come face to face daily, and it’s an acrimonious relationship – one of the American soldiers was telling us that the North Koreans like to walk right down to the line and give the Americans the finger.

Here and Cuba are the last places in the world where the Cold War is alive and well, and you can take a tour to get front row seats to the action. The tension is palpable, and visitors are given a list of restrictions: don’t point, don’t wave, don’t take photos unless you’re told it’s OK, and do not stop walking here for any reason.  Needless to say, several people pointed and were shouted at by the soldiers.  “If you point, the North Koreans will take a photo of you!”  And if it’s really silly, it goes in the newspaper: “here’s a degenerate American ruining the social fabric of the morally corrupt south.”  In Cyprus there was a feeling that the tension has relaxed a bit.  Here, that’s very much not the case.

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There is a learning curve on Korean food – it’s not something you can really be prepared for right out of the box (or, at least, I wasn’t).  We’re learning slowly, and even my father has come far enough to try to figure out chopsticks.  (Note that I said “try”).  That said, we’ve had a couple of rather lovely meals, and it may be worth seeking out one of the Korean restaurants in Austin to find them.

I’m still processing all of this, but figured since I was sitting here wide awake (we went to bed kind of early last night), that I’d take the chance to write some of it down.

 

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