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About Ramblings of a Hopeless Khowaga

Welcome to my Web site. My name is Chris, and I’ll be your host. I\'m an opinionated, snarky, gay academic with a predilection for the history, the Arab world, languages, photography, food, and music. I live in Austin, Texas. You can read more about me, learn 100 random things about me, and if you’re wondering what the heck a khowaga is, click here. Feel free to browse, read, and leave comments!

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12 of 12: July 2009 / ١٢ من ١٢: يوليو ٢٠٠٩

Sunday, July 12th, 2009

It’s time once again for 12 of 12!  This 12th of July, I’m in Cairo, capitol of the Arab Republic of Egypt.  I’ve been out of the US since June 29 — I was in Turkey for 10 days and flew down here on the 9th.  (For the record, and if you’re interested, there are photos from Turkey here).

I’ve been in Cairo many times — I studied here for a year in university — and it’s one of my favorite places in the world.  This is my first visit since 2006. I’m here on a combined business / vacation trip.  Although today is a business day (the work week in Egypt is Sunday through Thursday, since Friday is the communal day of prayer in Islam), I didn’t have any meetings scheduled, so it was kind of a fun day.

7:52 am: Skyping with Ray

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I’ve been waking up kind of early since I got here, and I caught Ray up late at home so we talked by Skype for a bit.  Mocha was in the picture for a bit, but she never quite looked at the camera.  Sorry, Mocha fans, there are no photos of her this month :(

10:00 am: Errands

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After pretending to go back to sleep for a bit, I finally wandered out around 10 o’clock to go pick up my laundry from the place down the street.  The laundry is in the same complex as the supermarket, so I stopped in to pick up some water and soda first, and then carried it all back to the hotel.  It was warm in Cairo today (102 F/41 C), and unusually humid.  This is, lamentably, still cooler than it is at home in Austin.  Tomorrow it’s going to be cooler – by Tuesday, it’ll be 91 (36).

1:56 pm: Christian Cairo

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I met up today with Tarek, our junior professor in modern Arabic literature, and we went down to the so-called Christian quarter.  It’s in the oldest part of the city, which actually predates the city of Cairo by 300 years.  A little-known fact: around 10 per cent of Egypt’s population is Christian, belonging to the native Coptic Church.  In an area of town called Mar Girgis, there are a number of churches and one of the few synagogues remaining in the country, all clumped together.

Tarek and I first hit the Coptic Museum (no photography allowed), and then wandered through the rest of the complex.  Although it’s a tourist draw, most of the people there were Egyptian, which was OK by us.

2:11 pm: St George’s Cemetery

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That’s Tarek taking a photo of the mausoleums in the Greek Orthodox cemetery behind St. George’s Church.  There are a bunch of mausoleums and family plots back there.  I was a bit surprised to find the tomb of someone with the same name as my grandfather — how many Neoklis Triantafillides’s could there have been in the Greek speaking world?

2:16 pm: Water from the Holy Well

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Although it’s not spelled out in the Gospels, the Egyptians have an entire itinerary set out for exactly where the Holy Family (Mary, Joseph, and the infant Jesus) traveled during their flight into Egypt.  In the cemetery is a crypt built over a cave where the Holy Family is said to have sheltered and drawn water from the well above.  As Mary (as Meryem) and Jesus (as ‘Issa) are both revered as prophets in Islam as well as Christianity, you can see adherents of both faiths making pilgrimages at these shrines.

2:51 pm: … you crazy, adorable fool

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The oldest known synagogue in Egypt still in existence, the Ben Ezra Synagogue, is in Mar Girgis as well, although, once again, no photography allowed.  Tarek and I got the royal tour, and were shown to the ‘Ayn Musa, the spring of Moses, located behind the synagogue.  This is said to be the spring where Pharaoh’s daughter drew the baby Moses from the Nile (the synagogue is said to be on the place where Moses pleaded with God to stop the plagues inflicted on Egypt).

3:12 pm: Off to Lunch

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OK, by this point in the day it was really hot in the sun and time for lunch.  Tarek and I had made plans to meet up with some students who are here for the summer, so we set back off for the area where I’m staying and several of the students live.

I am routinely asked by people if I feel unsafe traveling to Egypt as often as I do.  The answer is no – I have been coming to Egypt for 15 years, and I’ve never hidden the fact that I’m American, nor that I’m Christian (I don’t mention the part about being gay, however — that’s one barrier I’m not willing to cross here).  I’ve never been greeted with anything but kindness by people here.

The one place I do feel unsafe is on the road, however.  Egyptian taxis are built like tanks, but it doesn’t stop me from flinching often when riding in them.  Cairo is horrifically congested (by most unofficial estimates there are 20 million people in the Cairo/Giza/Shubra el Khayma metropolitan area) and it can take ages to get anywhere.  The Metro, wisely, is more for local use than tourists (it’s also not air conditioned), so we decided to cab it.

3:44 pm: Decisions, Decisions

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We met up for lunch at Abu Sid, a local upscale Egyptian restaurant.  You can get just about everything they serve on the street, but without the nasty side effects afterwards :)

5:38 pm: Towel Art

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Back on my own, I headed back to the hotel — a small, unassuming place run by a lady who governs with an iron fist.  I had forgotten that I’d hung my socks on the towel rack to dry after handwashing them in the sink this morning.  Hence, the guy who cleans the rooms at the hotel got a little creative with towel placement and left me a duck!

8:05 pm: Sunset

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In my food coma haze, I checked e-mail quickly and read while half watching episodes of the less successful Law and Order franchises (Trial by Jury; Trial by Fire; and Parks and Recreational Petty Crimes Division).  I lose track of the time until I hear the call to prayer wafting in through the window, meaning that it’s sunset.

8:45 pm: Evening Traffic in Zamalek

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I wander out, mostly from sheer boredom, and it’s traffic as usual in Zamalek on a weeknight.  Cars and pedestrians going every which way.

10:06 pm: Dessert before dinner

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One of the students calls to see what I’m up to and invite me to tag along to dinner (they eat late here).  I’m not that hungry, but first we stop in at a local bakery/sweet shop that I’ve frequented since my student days.  They churn out really nice baked goods–baklava, basboussa, kinaffeh–and ice cream as well.

For the record, we didn’t actually eat this stuff until after dinner (the shop was on the way to where we were going).  That would have been totally crazy … *innocent look*

And that was my 12.  How was yours?

Degentrification

Tuesday, June 23rd, 2009

Yesterday, I took a road-trip (for biz purposes, naturally) out to a little hamlet about an hour east of where I live.  We used to have a little hamlet like this right up the road.  When we moved into the house we currently occupy, we glanced out there because there were promises of new subdivisions, but we both balked at being in a town of 845 people.  Any money we saved, we reasoned, by buying out there would be offset by the cost of getting to the nearest grocery (10 miles).  It used to be the sort of place where you could give directions in reference to the traffic light, there being only one in town.

Needless to say, the little hamlet in question is now one of the fastest growing towns in the United States.  It’s now got over 17,000 people and driving through takes forever because the many traffic lights are all timed for traffic going the opposite direction from the way you’re going (it’s interesting how they always manage to work it that way!).

The drive out was pretty – there were about as many rolling hills as one can expect in that part of Texas (there’s a fault line running through Austin that separates the flat, flat plain on the east from the hill country to the west).  And then we arrived in the little town, which was little, and made our appearance at the high school.  As is the case with many of the school districts in that part of the state, the high school draws from 293 square miles.  There are students who ride the bus nearly two hours in each direction on a daily basis.

Our hosts took us to lunch at the restaurant in town.  There’s just one.  It serves a bewildering mishmash of food that is clearly prepared without any awareness of the ongoing cholestorol or obesity epidemics in the country.  You want Mexican?  They got it.  Also, anything fried: burgers, fries, steak fingers, chicken fingers, onion rings, fries, catfish.

It was at said restaurant that I had a moment of politically incorrect weakness and thought that the local clientele was a bit … frightening.  There were more than a few mullets, and several years’ quota worth of front butts *shudder* Can I eat with the Mexicans? I thought.  They’re the most normal looking people in here … Needless to say, the Mexicans were eating off in a corner by themselves.  I’ve mentioned before that I get nervous in places that are homogeneous (and not homo-geneous).

Our host then took us on a tour of the town, “Not that there’s much to show you,” she chirped, after pulling out of the parking lot and nearly getting us into a full on wreck by not paying attention to the pickup barreling down the road.

[flickr]http://www.flickr.com/photos/khowaga/3651392969/[/flickr]

The thing that struck me about our little tour was that nearly all of the narration consisted of “used to be”s.  This used to be the active downtown, but all of the stores and small businesses have closed.  In this entire row, there’s only one active enterprise.

[flickr]http://www.flickr.com/photos/khowaga/3652190082/[/flickr]

It was also a little unsettling that the bar had people hanging around outside at 3 in the afternoon.  The gas station around the corner was straight out of Bubbaville.  Two men in denim overalls sat out front in plastic lawnchairs, watching the traffic go by, such as it was.  Traffic doesn’t go through town since the main road was put in … thirty or forty years ago.

[flickr]http://www.flickr.com/photos/khowaga/3651394663/[/flickr]

There was also the place where the train station used to be.  There’s a rusting grain silo next to it that, I hope, hasn’t held actual grain for years.

Finally, after another few “used to be” comments, I had to ask, “Is the town shrinking?”
“Well, no, it’s the same size it used to be,” she said.  “It’s just that a lot of people are moving out here who still work in Austin.  No one’s paying attention to the town anymore.  They’re not invested in it.”

So, it’s us city folk.

I have to admit, I felt kind of sad for the place.  Everyone was certainly very nice, and it’s the sort of place where everyone knows everyone else.  But it’s the sort of place that needs gentrification — but, at the same time, I don’t imagine there’s much chance of that … at least not through the usual means.  Not with a Baptist church that size (and the slogan on the marquee out front left little doubt as to where they fall in the broader spectrum).

It was something to contemplate.  I drive through little towns on a relatively frequent basis and always wonder about what life is like there.  It was interesting getting a glimpse for once.

Morbid Newshound

Tuesday, June 2nd, 2009

For the past two days, I’ve been completely spellbound by the unfolding mystery of what happened to Air France 447.

There’s something of the locked-room mystery about the tale: passengers board a flight on a late autumn evening in Rio de Janeiro.  Among their numbers are the presidents of major corporations, doctors, lawyers, cabinet ministers, and, for a dash of complete exoticism, a handsome young prince, fourth in line to the Brazilian throne (never mind that the monarchy was abolished in the 1890s). The plane takes off, bound for Paris.  Dinner is served, the lights are dimmed.  Everything is routine.

Four hours into the flight, the plane passes over the northeastern coast of Brazil, heading for international waters.  The pilots report to Brazilian air traffic control that they’re passing out of their jurisdiction, and, as is usual when passing into an area that’s not covered by radar, they report the time that they expect to cross in to Senegalese airspace.  Some time later, the pilot reports thunderstorms and severe turbulence.  Then … nothing.  The plane never arrives in Senegalese airspace.  Calls fly back and forth between Recife and Dakar — no one can see the plane.  It never shows up on radar screens in Casablanca or Tolouse.  With the exception of a few automated messages received on a maintenance computer in Paris indicating that something has gone horribly, terribly wrong, the plane has, quite literally, disappeared.

There’s a compelling story in here, even if we try to fictionalize it.  But it’s not fiction, it really happened.  And, like lots of people everywhere, I want to know more.  Am I morbid?  Why?

There is, of course, the fear factor.  I’ve spent a good deal of time on airplanes, including ones that cross the ocean.  In less than a month, I’ll be flying transatlantic again–I’ve lost count, but I think this trip will be number 15 or 16.  I want to know what happened to AF 447 because I want some sort of reassurance that it’s not likely to happen on any flight I’m planning to take in the near future.

And then there’s the morbid part: what would it have been like to be on that plane?  *shivers*

For the past two days, I’ve spent a bit of time regularly checking updates as reported by the foreign media — back and forth between the Brazilian papers Folha do Sao Paolo and O Globo, the French newspaper Le Monde, and the message boards on Airliners.Net where polyglots helpfully translate articles in languages I can’t read.  (As a Spanish speaker, I find Portuguese easier to read than French … although clicking on the video clips that Globo has posted turned out to be pointless because, although I may be able to read Portuguese, I can’t understand the spoken language at all).

I’m also learning things about what the American press considers worthwhile.  One of the reasons why I had to break out the Spanish-Portuguese dictionary is that the English language media is doing a pretty bad job at updating the story regularly.  The Brazilian press reports every latest development, whereas BBC is running several hours behind, and CNN?  Fuggedaboutit.  Granted, it wasn’t a flight that came from the US, and there were other important goings on in the world yesterday (I refer, of course, to the Bruno/Eminem teabagging incident), but I still couldn’t help being a little snarky when I noticed that CNN became far more interested once it was known that two American citizens were on board.

Today, the world has caught up.  And the mystery is starting to clear, at least a little: although the aircraft would have run out of fuel a couple of hours after it missed its scheduled arrival time in Paris yesterday, it wasn’t until Brazil’s Minister of Defense announced that wreckage found in the Atlantic 700 miles northeast of Recife has been positively identified as belonging to Air France 447 that the media began using the word “crash.”

It’s a stunning tragedy — I feel a knot in my stomach whenever I see the images of relatives and friends arriving at the airports in Rio and Paris, trying to get more information.  They want what we all want: we want to know what happened. We want to find out it was quick.  We want to find out they didn’t know it was coming.  And we’re all pretty sure we’re wrong.

And I just can’t stop watching.

The Downside of Having One’s Office in a Highly Trafficked Area

Tuesday, April 14th, 2009

<timid knock on the door>
Me: “Hi.  Can I help you with something?”
Student: “Um, hi.  Um, I’m trying to enroll in a summer language course, and I need the approval of one of my language professors in order to register?”
Me: “Yes, I believe that’s correct.”

<silence>

Me: “What can I help you with?”
Student: “Well, Professor X’s* office hours are now, and he’s not in his office.”
Me: “Professor X is at a conference this week.”
Student: “So … he’s not going to be in his office today?”
Me: “No, cos the conference is in Hawaii, so I’m pretty sure he won’t make it.  You can e-mail him, though.”
Student: “Well, I tried that, but I kind of need this taken care of urgently because the deadline is approaching?”
Me: “Have you talked to Professor Y?”
Student: “I e-mailed her, but she never gets back to me.”
Me: “She’s on leave this semester, but she’s around.  I don’t know if she went to the same conference, though.”
Student: “Someone said I could see Z about this?”
Me: “Yes!  I saw her this morning.  I know she’s here.”
Student: “Do you know when her office hours are?”

<I pick up phone and call the front desk … the same front desk the student walked right by to get to my office.>

Front Desk Diva: “Hello, <Name of Department>”
Me:
“Hey, it’s me.  Do you know when Z’s office hours are?”
Front Desk Diva:
“Um, Tuesday and Thursday, 11 to 12:30.”
Me: “Thanks!” <hangs up>

Me: “Z’s office hours are today and Thursday, 11 to 12:30.”
Student: “I have class then.”

<blinks.>

Me: “I’m sorry?”
Student: “I have class then.  During her office hours.”
Me: “Have you tried e-mailing her?  Or stopping by another time?”
Student: “No.”
Me: “Give that a shot.”
Student: “OK.  And if that doesn’t work, should I come back to you?”
Me: “If that doesn’t work, I’d talk to your adviser.”

I know people who would have told the student outright that this wasn’t their job and sent her on their merry way, but I like trying to be helpful.  On the other hand, this sort of makes me understand why they do it.  Sigh.

*Yes, this is the same Professor X as always, Christine.

Chronicles of a Surgery

Thursday, March 26th, 2009

Yesterday, Wednesday, I had an outpatient procedure performed on my lower digestive tract.  I won’t go into the specifics of what was done, except to say that there are lovely, lovely painkillers that my surgeon gave me that numb me to the point where I don’t care about the pain anymore (note that this is not quite the same as getting rid of the pain altogether).

The Day Before

If you’ve ever had any sort of endoscopy or other procedure performed in the local what us Puritanical types tend to refer to as “Down There,” you’re aware that there are certain steps that you’re supposed to take to prepare yourself for your doctor’s intrusion.  And so, I stopped by my local Apothecary on the way home from work on Tuesday evening to purchase the necessary supplies for this.

I know I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: I don’t understand why stores that brand themselves as “pharmacies” crowd their aisles with supplies that are not even remotely pharmaceutical in nature.  The branch of the chain that I went into, one known by its initials, had a sale on soda and wine.  That’s right, wine.  At the pharmacy.  “It’s good for what ails ya!”

I wandered around back toward the back, wondering where said pharmaceutical chain kept what I was looking for (oh, why be coy: I needed a two pack of enemas).  I eventually found them … next to the foot cream.  If there’s a logic there, I don’t know what it is.  I’m not an experienced enough enema buyer to know that there are different types of enemas, and I spent longer than I really wanted to going back and forth between this brand and that brand, and finally deciding to save a whole 21 cents on the store brand rather than the name brand.

One of the reasons why I don’t care for pharmacies in this day and age is that when purchasing an item of a deeply personal nature, such as the two pack that I carried with me, is that I don’t always feel as though the transaction will be handled with the necessary decorum and tact that I might like.  And so, when I found myself behind the woman purchasing cigarettes, the young man purchasing a bag of chips and a soda, the elderly gentleman who made the cashier perform a price check on a DVD copy of “Old Yeller,” and then proceeded to argue with the cashier about whether or not it was on sale before ultimately deciding that he didn’t want it, and the guy in front of me buying milk, I was kind of glad that no one got in line behind me.  Yes, I know people have to purchase enemas somewhere, and the amount of shelf space devoted to them suggests that a significant number of people are buying them, but when you’re the only one in a long line at the pharmacy purchasing any sort of pharmaceutical item, I’m just putting out there that it’s not necessarily the first item you’d want to be buying.

Yes, I do embarrass easily.  Why do you ask?

My purchases placed in a translucent bag through which the name of the item was clearly visible, I got in the car and went home.  The rest of the prep for the following morning–no eating, drinking, smoking, or swearing after midnight–was significantly easier to accomplish.

The Day Of

Over the days leading up, my surgery had been bumped up twice.  I was originally scheduled for 12:30.  Then it was moved up to 10:30, and, in early afternoon on Tuesday, I was called one last time by the pre-admitting nurse to let me know that there’d been a cancellation and I was now on the docket for 9:45 in the morning.  Normally, someone with my blood sugar levels (I’m hypoglycemic) would leap for joy at knowing that I’d be able to put food in my stomach hours earlier than scheduled.  However, the nurse informed me that I’d need to be checked in by 8:15 in the morning.

Austin traffic being what it is, I’d have preferred the 10:30 slot.  There’s a reason that I’m in the office by 7:30 every morning.  If I leave the house much later than when I leave currently (6:45), traffic slows down considerably, and it becomes vastly unpredictable.  Hence, Ray and I dragged ourselves out of bed at 6:30 so that we could get in the car by 7:15, in the hopes of making it the 20 miles to central Austin by 8:15.  We weren’t far off the mark: by the time we got parked and up to the intake office, it was right around 8:05.

It was me and a bunch of old ladies in the waiting room, and they all glared at me when I was called down first.  They set us up in a room barely large enough to accommodate the bed/stretcher that I crawled into, and Ray had his choice of two utterly uncomfortable chairs to sit in.  They gave me one of those oh-so-fashionable robes that open in the back, footie socks, a “bouffant cap” (the box was right across the hall, so I could verify that this was the official name), and a set of gauze pants that, I was instructed, I could wear “if I wanted.”

Thus set up in my little day surgery room, a string of visitors came through.  First was admitting nurse number one, who went over all of the paperwork that I’d already gone over with someone else.  Then came nurse nurse, who put the IV in.  Now, I’m not the biggest fan of needles that go in my arm in the first place.  The problem I had with this particular episode … well, there were two.  First off, the IV didn’t go in my arm, it went in the back of my hand.  Second, she decided to try to ease the process by numbing the spot first, and … well, I’m actually better off without that step.  It tends to make me woozy and lightheaded, and, sure enough, I got woozy and lightheaded.  “Oh, my,” she said, “Does the sight of blood bother you?”

“No,” I mumbled … because there was no blood to see, but why bring that up?

The next visitor was the anesthesiologist.  She asked me … for the third time that morning … whether I had any jewelry on, and I cut to the chase: “No, no piercings, no tattoos.”

“You know,” she said, “I realized I can’t say that anymore.  I had breast reconstruction?  And you know, they tattoo on the areola when they do the reconstruction.  It looks really good, but now I have to answer yes whenever I have to fill out these forms.”

I have to tell you, that’s not necessarily the sort of information I’d offer to someone that I just met for the first time.

At some point after this, I realized that I had to go to the bathroom, which involved summoning a nurse to unhook the IV and walk it into the bathroom across the hall with me.

And then, it was time to get wheeled down the hall.  I left Ray with his laptop (“Hey, I can’t get the wireless to work,” he said.  “I guess now I don’t have to feel guilty about watching the DVD I brought.”) and a good-luck kiss, and off we went.

I know why the nurses are supposed to engage you in conversation as you head into surgery, but … I didn’t particularly want to have the “So, what do you do for a living?” conversation at that particular moment.  I don’t have a job that lends itself to explanation in a sound bite.

And into the Operating Room we went.  And, to my surprise, there were a lot of people in there.

“Wow,” I said.  “I’ve got an audience.”

“Uh huh,” she said.  “The procedure they’re doing on you is still pretty new, and so there are some other doctors observing, and those two guys are from the company that makes the machine they’re using, and those are the nurses who work with the observing doctors, and … ”

There were at least seven people in the room, none of whom were my surgeon or the anesthesiologist I’d met earlier (the one with the tattooed areolas).  The anesthesiologist’s assistant came over, introduced himself, and said, “I’m going to give you some drugs that will kind of mellow you out and make you not care.”

“Bring it on!” I said.  There was some general milling about the room, but … well, everyone was watching me.  And, so, as the drugs kicked in, I nodded at the doctors standing nearest me and said, “Gee, I hope you all enjoy your guided tour of my rectum!”  There was a bit of laughter …

… and then I was in the recovery room with no pants on.

By the time they put me in the wheelchair to be wheeled out to Ray’s truck, it was nearly 1 PM.  We stopped for lunch on the way home, and then, saddled with the shopping list that I’d been given at discharge, stopped once again at the pharmacy for painkillers and other supplies.

And now … well, I’m propped up in front of the TV with a recurring diet of painkillers and anti-inflammatory drugs, and bemoaning the fact that there’s nothing good on television during the day.

But still, it’s the best excuse not to work from home I’m likely to get :)

 

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